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Hot Rods 276 test drive disappointment......need help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 36tudordeluxe, Mar 22, 2014.

  1. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    Okay, slight improvement. Found TDC for #1 and sunk distributor post with rotor lining up on #1 plug wire in the cap, fired immediately. To get it to idle somewhat smooth had to retard distributor to the point where the hold down lip on the distributor housing is off the hold down area on the head; that can't be right. On the road test the car performed slightly better than before. Am convinced this is an ignition problem rather than carb. Plug wires are 8mm Taylor for electronic ignition. Will clean all the plugs tomorrow and try agin.
     
  2. Same thought here. I have .082 jets in the secondaries on my 650 Holley spreadbore double pumper and .062 in the primaries. This is on a 472 Cadillac. On the other hand our '47 Hudson has a 390 FE with a 2bbl. It's a 350 cfm. It had .055 jets and it was way too lean. Popping in a hard pull with pedal to floor. I drilled them out to .067 and it ran 1000 times better but was rich. Bought .062's for it and SHAZAAM, problem solved.

    I think for starters I'd jet yours down.
     
  3. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    You can not accurately find TDC with a dial indicator ! You can be 5* +- degrees off doing it that way as the piston effectively does not noticeably move as the crank swings at top of the stroke. The only correct way is with a piston stop that catches the piston a little way down the bore. Try changing the inital setting both ways and see what happens.
     
  4. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    I used a piston stop strap also and rotated crank in both directions and split the difference on the crank pulley, I don't think I could have gotten it any closer than where my mark was with dial indicator. Will try changing the initial setting as you suggest.
     
  5. A partially flat cam lobe or two would do what you described, have you checked to see if the cam went flat during break-in?
    Thanks to our modern oils, this is now a common occurrence.
     
  6. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    I have an Edelbrock calibration kit but doesn't have any jets smaller than .083.
     
  7. Just once, only once in my life, I want to see an engine run with the distributor 180* out!
     
  8. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    Sorry for confusing you on plug wire markings I thought you had 36 engine not late engine.
     
  9. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,420

    GMC BUBBA
    Member Emeritus

    Guys , take a deep breath and lets look at this.
    He stated that the engine started very easily and idled very well. Also stated it reved up on engine stand.
    No where has he mentioned using a timing light on distributor to mark at idle. But if it started well it must be correct as well as proper wire placements.

    Run good on stand and then ran bad in chassis. ???? Was carb remvoed to install engine, maybe air leak on three or four cylinders due to hose off carb some where.
    I betting on a fuel problem here.......
     
  10. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    I've got ZDDP in the oil.
     

  11. you may be off a tooth on your distributor if the lip is off of the head.
     
  12. Bigchuck
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,159

    Bigchuck
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    You can use larger metering rods.
     
  13. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    Called Edelbrock and can get smaller jets at any auto part store.
     
  14. Might be way off but is your fuel fresh. I had to disassemble and clean my Edelbrocks one Spring because I had forgotten to put Stabil in the tank for the Winter and run it through the system. Although the engine would start and idle OK it would fart and stumble on acceleration. Another byproduct of our new improved fuel.
     
  15. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,637

    SimonSez
    Member



    Yeah, but he has an Edelbrock carb so you can't directly compare jet sizes between one of those and a Holley.

    A Edelbrock/Carter jet has a metering rod that sits inside it and moves up down so the amount of fuel it flows is reduced.

    This picture shows it better ...

    [​IMG]
     
  16. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,637

    SimonSez
    Member


    If you already have an Edelbrock calibration kit it should have all you need to get it dialled in pretty well.

    The #1486 kit is the best one to use for the 500 cfm carb, but if you have a different kit you may still find the parts you need in it.


    Do you have the manual for the carb?

    It has lots of tuning info, plus will also tell you the factory jet/metering rod sisez in case it has been mucked around with before.

    If you don't have it, you can download it from Edelbcock,
    http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf
     
  17. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    I've got the 1486 kit and have changed jets to the smallest .083. This is setup #11 in the Edelbrock manual for the 1404 carb. like I have. This setup works perfectly in an identical engine to mine (Richard in Florida) but doesn't for me. I'll keep trying.
     
  18. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,299

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    According to Edelbrock set up #11 should have the .083 jets and a #1460 metering rod (.065 x .052) this is 2 stages leaner from out of the box. Is this what you are running?
     
  19. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 808

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    did I miss it or was initial advance and total advance (and at what RPM is it all in) checked?

    If possible only make one change (repair attempt) at a time and re-evaluate the symptom other wise you may compound a problem.
     
  20. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    Correct
     
  21. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    14° initial if memory is correct and 24° at 2500 RPM
     
  22. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    fuel is fresh
     
  23. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    Been trying to think what has changed since it was running good on test stand versus in the car and the only thing I can come up with is I have a filter at the tank & carb. whereas on the stand only had filter at the carb. Grasping at straws now.
     
  24. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,233

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sorry if I missed this, but is the fuel pump in the car mechanical, or electric? If electric, where is it located?
     
  25. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    Electric at the tank, funny thing, the pump failed yesterday, am working on the problem now.
     
  26. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,299

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers


    Had almost the same scenario on my pickup. (only not flattie). Found pump was the culprit. Changed it with a Holley red on a relay. OK 2 years now.
     
  27. Andamo
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 523

    Andamo
    Member

    Maybe the fuel pump has been the culprit all along since it wasn't included in the test stand runs. Lets hope........
     
  28. Maybe something was restricting the fuel flow so badly that the engine stumbled and the pump broke finally, glogged line or filter?
     
  29. castirondude
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 496

    castirondude
    Member

    I've had bad luck with these rattlecan fuel pumps. Even if it rattles, doesn't mean it actually is pumping fuel. I've had it that (I think) there is an air bubble before it and when you idle around it is not bothered by the air but when you punch it, it loses its prime. In that case though it would not recover at all. I'd have to keep an eye on my fuel pressure and if it drops then quickly turn into a parking lot.

    Basically they only work if you have straight gravity feed to the pump, with a good filter in the line.
     
  30. 36tudordeluxe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 496

    36tudordeluxe
    Member

    Nope, had the fuel pump just one less filter.
     

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