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Projects 27 coupe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AndersF, Oct 17, 2015.

  1. brad2v
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,648

    brad2v
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have the same lathe, haha.
     
    greaser and AndersF like this.
  2. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    Finally some update to show.
    This have dragging out forever but it was a bit more involved then i first thought.
    I started with the floorpan behind the seat where i allso wanted the gastank and battery to be.

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    Next task was to cut the tank to fit with the battery. I allso needed to relocate the filler.

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    Then i bended up the supports for the tank and massaged them around to fit.

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    Then i could weld them to the floorpan.
    I allso needed to make a hole were the bottom pan on the tank is.

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    But when i testfitted it all i got interference problem with the backrest against the tank.
    So i did some cut outs for the exhaust in order to move it all backwards.
    Then i found out the bends on the exhaustpipes differ a bit betwin the sides.
    I had to take the drivers side down and reshape it a bit to gain another 7/8 backwards.
    All this made my floorpan about 1-3/8 to short but started with plenty to remove.
    But i can now tilt the backrest to where i want it to be.
    Made some tankbands and brackets with reinforcements to mount the tank.
    Allso made a batterybox in sheetmetal as a extra protection betwin the tank and battery.
    That needed to be bolted. I am not sure i can put the tank in and out otherwise.

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    OFT, kiwijeff, fiftyv8 and 10 others like this.
  3. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 2,235

    goldmountain

    Looks like we are following the same basic plan.
     
    AndersF likes this.
  4. MMM1693
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 511

    MMM1693
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work Anders! I don't know if I could weld seams on a fuel tank anymore. Looks good!
     
    AndersF likes this.
  5. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    I problaby going to cheat and lead the welds to be sure they dont leak.
     
    OFT, fiftyv8 and 26 T Ford RPU like this.
  6. Sounds like a good plan!
     
    AndersF likes this.
  7. Just read througgh all this - great work man. Getting closer to the first drive.
     
    AndersF likes this.
  8. Dogberg
    Joined: Dec 30, 2017
    Posts: 10

    Dogberg
    Member

    Jag hittade just en rolig tråd att ägna lite tid, har bara börjat kolla ännu men uppskattar verkligen det jag ser!
     
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  9. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,120

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Or in English; I just found a fun topic to devote a little time, have only begun to check yet but really appreciate what I see!
     
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  10. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    Thats are a accurat translation you did.
    Do you read swedish or did you get right with a translationprogram?

    But this bump come just in time for my next update.
    At the techinspection i got two issues on my rearsuspension i had to fix.
    First it was the spring that bottomed out and second the placement of my shockabsorbers.
    When i mounted the spring i mesarued it and added for the hangers.
    It all looked good until i put it on the floor. Then the spring bottomed out right away.
    I belived it was my spring that needed to get its arc back so thats was my solution.
    But the techinspector sad i had the mountingpoints to close together.
    A google search tell me that they where 6 inch to close together for a stock model A spring.
    So i relocate them and welded them back.
    Now my springspreader really had to work to get my spring in place.

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    The problem he saw on my shockabsorbers was that they where to close together and mounted to high.
    He was afraid it could make the rear to feel funny.
    So i had to find a thin absorbers that fit betvin rearaxle and spring.
    I found one but had to remove the dustsheild to make it work.
    Then i mounted them on the bracket for my lower 4-link and just inside the frame on my crossmember.

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    Becouse of the high arc on the spring it got alot lower now when it got spreaded out.
    Actually 4-inches. Its way more then i can chims up so next was to rebuild my crossmember.
    It still needs to get the sides capped and finnishwelded but i getting there.
    I added about 1-inch on the rideheight for the spring to settle.

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  11. To only have those two things to fix for Cert was rather good and that you have fixed them without much hassle is really cool, well done to you. :cool::cool::D JW
     
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  12. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    Have a few things more to look at but overall it went rather smooth.
     
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  13. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,120

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I wish that I could read Swedish.
    No, I used the translator program.
    What a great tool that is for the world these days.
     
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  14. That_53_Guy
    Joined: Jul 30, 2018
    Posts: 172

    That_53_Guy
    Member

    Very impressive Anders, I'll be following along
     
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  15. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 843

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Happy for you, Anders! You will be driving soon.
     
    AndersF likes this.
  16. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    Time for a little update again.
    Have been working on making a fillerneck.
    To pass the inspection it needs to be on the outside of the body.
    I did some research on gascaps in this thread.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gascap-question.955807/
    So left rear is where i place it.
    So a 2 inch tankhoose with a 90 bend and a harley cap with a weld in bung i started to plan.
    The bung fits nice inside a 2,5 exhaustpipe.

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    No regrets. After some measureings and tests i cut a hole on the left rear.

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    Then some mocking up to make it work. A 2,5 pipe through the body and a angeled 2 pipe
    thats fit to the hoose. Looks like it gonna work.

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    Then i welded in a sleeve for the 2,5 pipe where i could stick the fillerneck though.
    I did this to be able to remove the fillerneck without to remove the gastank.

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    All went as planned and the parts still fit after welding. Did added a pipe for a 5/8 hoose
    that goes to the top of the tank to let the air out when i fill the tank.

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    Have allso added a frame to bolt the luggagefloor. I want it bolted so i can have easy access
    to service upper shockmount and exhaust flanges.

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    I have changed my steeringwheel. The one i had where a bit to far from the backrest.
    So a steeringwheel from a early 60:s Oldsmobile will go in place instead.
    Thats mean i had to make myself a new adaptor to fit my steeringcolumn.
    Another steeringwheel got its center robbed out.

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    A 1/4 plate where made to fit the hub and got drilled with 4 holes that fit to the steeringwheel.

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    Used some 8mm (~5/16) nuts ment to use on mdf boards that fits in the holes perfect.
    Had to remove the tips that normally grips in the mdf board.

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    Adjusted the plate to the steeringwheel and bolted the nuts.
    Then i welded the bolts and nuts so they cant get loose later on.
    I allso had to grind some of the boltheads to fit the plate to the hub.
    A outer ring not showed here was added around the edge to clear the
    boltheads to the hub.
    The 4th hole will be used to clamp steeringwheel to the hub.

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    Used 3 countersink m6 (~1/4) screws to bolt the plate to the hub.

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    How the backside look.

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    A try to show the bolt that bolt the steeringwheel to the hub.

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    All bolted together and testmounted in the car.

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  18. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    If i work just a little bit slower on this build its problaby go backvards.
    But i got some things done.
    Did put some work to make the clutch ready but could not get it work right.
    So i left it for now and started making the firewall to luggage compartment.
    It has to be strong enough to hold seatbelts and to mount the tank and trunklid
    i need the firewall bolted.
    So i build a frame of tubes to mount the belts and firewall.

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    Then i cut out a bit of sheetmetal to make the big pice behind the seat.
    Had to cut it up to clear the tank and batterybox.
    Then i made some strips to close the gaps and welded them.

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    Then i made the fillerpices from the framework to the body.
    I allso incorperated a mainswitch for the battery. The insurance companys here require that.

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    The camera must have been drunk when i took this picture.

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  19. You have been busy...good stuff. JW
     
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  20. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 2,235

    goldmountain

    Looks like we are still following the same basic plan. I see what you are doing and we seem to even make the same mistakes. Only we scrounge up different parts sometimes. Keep it up.
     
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  21. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    I guess its becouse we have similar problems to solve.
    To use the space avalible in the best way and make everything axcessible to maintain.
    I have been lucky to not make any expensive mistakes yet.
    This far they mostley just cost some time.
     
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  22. MMM1693
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 511

    MMM1693
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking good!
     
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  23. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    Have been working in the trunk the last few days.
    First thing to adress was the exhaust pipes where they go over the rearaxle.
    They did not longer fit after i change the rear crossmember.
    I allso had to make a new brackets to hold the pipes.

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    Then cut out some sheetmetal to do the trunkfloor.
    Theese will be removible so i can axess the parts under without to lift the body from the frame.

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    But naturly its not just to put in some flat sheetmetal.
    The clamp that holds the spring sticking out booth upp and to the rear.

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    So i had to cut up some holes where they are.
    Then i tok some sheetmetal and made boxes of to clear the clamps.
    But before i bended them i made some beads on them just to give them some flair.

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    And a quick test shows that i got room for some esentials to get me trough a wekend.:cool:

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    So now i put the lid on for a while and fix something other.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. Sorted!:cool::D JW
     
    AndersF likes this.
  25. Looking good! I like the detail in the floor over the spring clamp.
     
    AndersF likes this.
  26. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    I have rebuilt the brake setup for the mastercylinder.
    I used a mastercylinder for Dodge Dart 67-70 drums front and back.
    Modify them for remote filling.

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    I started to finalize the clutch this winter.
    Came this far but could not get the linkage to the pedal to work properly.

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    So i bought a hydraulic system to install.
    So it was just to modify the clutch setup to accept a hydraulic mastercylinder.

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    To get the pedal at the right place when the clutch is released i tacked the pedal where i wanted it.
    The i could build the assembley.

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    Then i could mount the remote fillercup for the brakes and clutch.

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    So now i got two of three pedals in place.
    Hopefully for good now.

    [​IMG]
     
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  27. Moving along and getting closer.:cool::) JW
     
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  28. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 713

    AndersF
    Member

    Yes, Now i actually start to see the end of the build.
     
  29. It feels good. JW
     
    AndersF likes this.

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