The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.
Looking good man. That’s the split loom stuff? Looks like it holds closed well.
Yes it’s the split loom, cloth looking stuff.
And it really does curl snugly around the wires.
I started out with the wires all tie wrapped but I found myself snipping all of them off because honestly the loom works better without them.
Once the loom is around them and they’re mounted in the T clamps it’s great.
Another thing I can add is that one of the best things I did before starting this wiring project was to order a tray assortment of American Autowire terminals and their crimping tools to go with them.
They make really nice terminals that crimp to the wire and also the insulation OEM style.
Probably the best you can get.
Awesome job! I really appreciate the detail of using a regular terminal and heat shrink on the wire terminations instead of those ugly crimp on type terminals with the red/blue/yellow insulation collars. Your way really makes a professional finish.
This wiring stuff is consuming every bit of time I can give it.
It’s coming along really well, I’ve got the engine wiring done and I’m working on the front lighting now.
Looming everything and mounting it with the T clamps eats up a lot of time but it’s turning out nice and clean.
Another in the many stages of building a car where you can work for 8 hours, and non-car people don't see any change. Keep at it Larry, car show season is upon us!
It took some doing to get the wires loomed and threaded to the headlights.
That along with all the work associated with the T clamps for mounting took all day yesterday and part of today
Finally got it done now I can move on to the wiring inside the headlight buckets.
While I was at it I mounted a little Fiamm 133 dB horn on a mount I made to fit it under the engine mount.
Wired that in too.
Lookin good; but you gotta get those screws clocked right.
I’m particular about doing a nice job but I’m not that anal
Hey, Slotted screws are tough but Phillips? C'mon, tweek 'em just a bit. (unless you torqued them)
The proper term is precise not anal.
Good spot for that horn that’s a great idea!
Out of curiosity are your homes for the clamps pre drilled or are you going threw that nice new paint and installing them as your wiring?
I haven’t looked in on this for a while. Awfully impressive.
The proper term is nuts , as in ill , not well .
I’m drilling through the paint and then I use a paint pen to coat the hole.
Then I put the rivnut (Most of them are 10x32 ) onto the installation tool and give it a liberal coating of paint too.
Then in the hole it goes and gets crimped down tight.
Headlight buckets wired up, I used heat shrink glue lined bullet connectors so that I can disassemble everything in the future without cutting wires should the need arise.
In that event the wires all need to fit through the 1/2” holes for the wiring conduits through the headlight buckets and the grille shell.
The parking lights and turn signals are included in the top lights on the repro guides.
Yes the loom is time consuming, but it sure makes the wiring kind of disappear. Love how this build is coming out.
@Blue One what brand of connector did you go with in the Buckets and ultimately where did you source it?
I just saw your post in the other thread......you just added it...thanks
I don't think you'll like the sound of a single horn, I'd go with two, is that wreck gonna see road time this year?
Yes the plan is road time this summer.
The single horn will suffice, it’s plenty loud and it’s compact.
Hoping not to need it too often
Got them here in town at Gregg’s an industrial supplier.
I know of that brand I have used a different type of crimp ring made by them they are well established and a force...goodo...I have considered a potential headlight swap...not carved in stone but that would made it more user friendly if I want to swap it out.
Headlights are done, routing wire to the rear is giving me fits but I’ll get it done
I may have missed it somewhere and went back and looked but didn't see it....at the ends of some of your split looms it looks like you used heat shrink tubing and at other junctions like where wires split off it looks like you are using cloth tape. Is that correct? Looks fantastic!
I’m using some shrink tubing where I can and at other junctions I’m using a rubber wrap that bonds to itself when wrapped and stretched a little bit.
The stuff works really well, looks good and I like it better than cloth tape.
I actually found some stuff locally (because I ran out of the little 2’ long rolls that came with my loom) here that works great.
It’s obviously for a different purpose but it’s the same stuff and really works.
Excellent, thanks! I used the same split loom in my Merc and heat shrink, but had troubles making nice junctions when I split wires out. Your junctions look nice and clean and the look I was hoping for but missed the target. LOL
Welcome to my nightmare
I had to get the wires to the rear of the car for tail lights and the fuel gauge.
Unlike the front which was pretty straight forward (pun intended ) the rear was especially tough because with the exhaust, rear suspension, brake lines etc., etc., there was really no easy way to route the wires to where they had to go.
I decided that up the passenger side kickup to the outside of the frame would be best to avoid everything else.
That was complicated by the fact that the battery box is also mounted there
So in order to accomplish having the wires go up the back of the kickup to the outside of the frame I fabricated a little bracket that bolts to the frame to hold the wire loom with T clamps.
The take off above the top T clamp is where the wire goes out to the fuel gauge.
Probably overkill like everything else on this build but it gets the job done and the wires are going to be safe and secure.
A lot of work for something that is completely hidden once the battery is back in place and the side panel is back on.
But I won’t have wiring problems with the rear lights in the future.
Like I said welcome to my nightmare
What are you using to drill these new tiny holes? On a near complete car I’d have a hard time getting it dead on with out a big ordeal
The holes for the 10/32 rivnuts are 19/64” and any 1/4” rivnuts take a 25/64” hole.
I’ve got a right angle air powered drill and an assortment of shorty drill bits.
The main problem is trying to be strategic with where you place your fasteners, some places on an assembled car are impossible to get to.
I had to do some disassembly to run those rear wires.
And by the way, the guys who say a model T based hot rod is easy to build?
I’d like to smack them in the side of their heads
Fun yes, easy no
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