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Projects '26 Model T build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by xrw urabus, Mar 10, 2011.

  1. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    That may be the case, I certainly wouldn't discount that if that is true...I have just never seen a factory Nickel plated Steel shell. Ever Nickel shell I have come accross is stamped brass. All the painted ones, steel.

    It just seems like too much work to brass plate, (possibly copper plate) then Nickel plate a steel shell.....then just stamping it from brass and cut out at least one step from the process and save money....something Ford was all about.

    It seems logical to me.

    If I am incorrect, I am okay with that and thank you for the correction :)



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  2. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,406

    Carter
    Member

    Just a thought but the 28-9 nickel plated shells were steel. Perhaps it was cheaper to stamp them out of steel then plate them, even with the extra step, over the initial higher material cost of brass.

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  3. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    They may have been able to stream line it by that point. I do agree, I have a Nickel plated steel '29 shell, but I have never seen a Nickel plated steel '26-'27 T shell.

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  4. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,406

    Carter
    Member

    Now you've got me wondering, I've got a nickel T shell on a radiator upstairs in the garage. I'll have to check it out this weekend.

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  5. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    Me too!

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  6. I for one would like to see the make up of the True Fire and how you tested it. Thanks.
     
  7. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Sidevalve,

    I'll Get some photos and thought put together and get something up. I was impressed with how simple this unit turned out to be.

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  8. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,435

    olskool34
    Member

    I think that late in production Ford must have switched to steel for all T shells. This is the second I have seen, my late T coupe also had one. Like Carter said, the A's were nickel plated steel so makes sense that they were trying it before the A's came out.


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  9. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    Then I must agree with my colleges then :D

    You are most certainly correct and it does make sense...as Ford was expirementing with different advances in late '26, early '27 that eventually turn up in Model A production.

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  10. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    I'm still working on the true fire post. but couldn't sleep till I got this up here.


    It's Alive! still need to do some carb adjusting but we're both happy with the results of the repairs I did to the true fire.


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  11. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    IT LIVES!!! :D. My T's Ohio cousin Lives! :D

    That thing sounds great and glad to see it come to life and run reliably.

    Great Job Guys! :D

    Next step is to get it running and keep it going for about 15-20 minutes to completely break in.

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  12. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    It would have ran longer this time if I hadn't adjusted the fuel back too much on the Carb. Now that we know it'll will run we'll get her out side and Broken in. Not sure if we'll put the exhaust on first or just run her as she is? Still happy it was only a bad coil.

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  13. xrw urabus
    Joined: May 26, 2010
    Posts: 49

    xrw urabus
    Member
    from ohio

    I will put in my 2¢.
    [​IMG]
    Jim
     
  14. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    With the Hamb down for a few days I wanted you all to know that we're still here and pushing forward on the project.

    We have gotten the "Modified" brake hoop installed. The First step was to cut the hoop to length. Then weld it in. Because this is a Safety system we also put a sleeve over the weld.
    [​IMG]


    The Sleeve was welded at both ends and down the middle seam. Then the welds were cleaned up.

    [​IMG]

    This will get primed, painted and covered with bed liner. But I don't think it will fail.

    I have noticed that some of the videos in this thread are broken since the upgrade. I will try and fix them as I can. If you see a dead video that you really wanted to see let me know I'll get it back up for you.

    I'm also still sorting out the True Fire info. at this point I think it's going to be a multi-part post as it's getting kind of long winded. Hopefully the first post will be up soon.

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  15. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    Very Nice guys!

    I am excited for.....and patiently waiting for, a video of that thing running outside :D

    Glad you got all the True Fire issues handled and look forward to your explanation.....so I can learn something new :)
     
  16. why would you coat chassis parts in bed liner, won't the road grime build up will be appalling? besides that, an enjoyable build.
     
  17. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    The bed-liner was painted on to fill some of the pitting on the frame and give us a UV, Chip resistant coating for the frame. We'll find out about the road grime build up when we get it back on the road. Based on the amount of mud and dirt we had to chip off the frame before we could sand blast it... I'm not sure it will be worse.

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  18. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    It's been raining here for pretty much the last 2 weeks. So we took some time to work on a few things that need buttoned up before we put the body back on the car.
    Our battery box was missing, as was most of the support cage that should be around it. So we started by bending up some 3/16" X 3" striping to replace the missing support.
    [​IMG]
    Then we drilled and riveted it onto the frame.
    [​IMG]

    While we had the torches out we went after the passenger side running board mounts.
    [​IMG]
    These will be re-purposed as Exhaust hangers.

    [​IMG]
    Hopefully we'll get the Exhaust bent up for this soon.

    Here is where I should be putting the Video of the Engine running for the break in run (we got an afternoon the it didn't rain).... But instead I'm putting this video in.



    This is what let the magic smoke out...
    [​IMG]
    The Coil in the unit is dead too. So at this point every time we go to drive the car we'll need to replace the coil and check the gas... Nope We are officially looking for a distributor for the Model T. Does anyone have an opinion on the Texas T Distributor? http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merc...e_Code=TTP&Product_Code=T3161&Category_Code=m

    As always let us know what you think!

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  19. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    Best $315 I ever spent on my car....and they take about an hour to install and set up.

    Uses all VW parts and distributor....so finding parts is easy. Also, the BEAUTIFUL Mallory auto-advance distributor built by Jim at Bubba's Ignition is a straight bolt in
    [​IMG]


    .....as is one of these bad boys...should you choose to upgrade in the future. ;)
    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  20. Grahamsc
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 466

    Grahamsc
    Member
    from Colorado

    We bought our high comp head from Texas T parts they are the best people to deal with.
    Also buy a pertronix unit for your vw distributor.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  21. Grahamsc
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 466

    Grahamsc
    Member
    from Colorado

    Just to give you an idea of the possibilitys for a t engine
    We bought a texas t high comp head had the block bored .100 over , got light weight pistons made by Ross, had a 1/2 in stroke crank shaft my by moldex in Michigan had a reverse camshaft made and ported the block ( now there are 4 intake ports), instaled big valves and bought a frt timing cover for the vw dissy.
    Put kevlar lining on the bands with an antique brake rivet press(cotton lining with original rivets dosent last long)
    Made our own intake with a single 97 stromberg.
    We had it dinoed at 60hp at the rear wheels.
    At the hillclimb we competed in a good stock( read just rebuilt and timed right) T would clock about 60 seconds, we ran it in 27
     
  22. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Graham,
    Our engine isn't quite as hopped up as your but it's not stock by any stretch.


    The Texas T Dizzy with all the fixings should be here later this week. Since we can't run the engine to break it in yet we decided we need to do something to keep the project moving forward. So we took the old girl down to our friends at Ron Ruegg automotive. They helped us bend up a nice custom 2 1/4 " one piece exhaust for her.
    [​IMG]

    It fits on nice.
    [​IMG]

    We finished it off with a nice slash cut.
    [​IMG]

    I've had a little extra free time so I knocked together a battery box as well.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Still needs wielded but you get the Idea. Noting fancy...just a metal box.

    While we were at it we decided that it was time to put the body back on the frame. We can't work on the steering or the electrical any more till we know where it all mounts to. Of course after we bolted it on we rolled it out side to see how it looks in the sun.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The rear window and deck are next on the list of things to get back on her.

    So what do you think? (I'm thinking I need to find a milk crate and take a proper "Test" drive....but there's still a lot more work before that can happen. But Soon!!!)

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  23. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    Impressive boys.....impressive :D

    I REALLY like the look with the body on....the Stance is KILLER.

    I do like the exhaust and it's location.....but I have to say, I would have tucked it under the car more. The reason I say that is because when I had my exhaust mounted on the outside similar to yours....people used it as a step plate to get in all the time....and as a result...broke my pipe clamps. Since moving it inboard a ways....I haven't had problems.

    Mine is made of an old drive shaft tube however, and I worry about your pipe being crushed over time.

    Just my $.02. You may not have any trouble...I figured I would mention it.



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  24. I hope you guys are having as much fun building this car as I am having following your thread. Keep up the good work.
     
  25. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 314

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Clayton,
    The Exhaust location has been a bit of a debate between the two of us. and has even been moved up closer to the car by a couple of inches in the front since these pictures were taken. But in reality we'll have to try it and see how it goes... If it breaks we can fix it :)

    Sidevalve,
    For the most part this has been a blast (that whole issue with the coils burning out .... not so much). But don't close the book on us yet. We still have to tackle the interior. That is going to cover two things I don't see much of on the Hamb..... Wood working and sewing (the last one is a skill that I don't know much about) That should be a ball!

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  26. Like a lot of things in this hobby it will be a learning experience and that's a good thing.
     
  27. xrw urabus
    Joined: May 26, 2010
    Posts: 49

    xrw urabus
    Member
    from ohio

    Hey everyone, thanks for the good words.

    Clayton,
    The pipe that will "brand" everyone as they get in the car is a bit of contention:). My thought was to use the running board brackets as the side pipe brackets. We are adjusting it so the look goes with the stance nicely (form over function?). Also, if you get burned once you most likely wont do that again! Maybe we could use the plasma cutter and make a Lizzy logo and weld it right there and it would "brand" people like cattle. We are planning on polishing it and the header then high heat clear. I do like your old drive shaft exhaust but for us this was much cheaper.

    The stance is easier to see in the top picture. The bottom picture runs too close to the angle in my driveway and hides it some.

    My opinion on what to do with the TrueFire is..........refer back to one of our earlier posts.


    That is what I suggest! Anything more is to waste good money and time after bad. Plus, the big boom would be fun:D.
     
  28. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    MrModelT
    Member

    People getting burnt or "Branded" was never a problem....standing on it and breaking the exhaust clamps was, even after telling people "please don't stand on the exhaust pipe".

    At the time....I had a stock Model A exhast manifold (the pipe to manifold connections suck) and I had given a ride to a lady that ignored me and stood on it and broke the rear hanger. I didn't know it until I left....and hit the street. Drove home with the pipe in the passenger seat and the manifold wide open. :)

    The best thing about the driveshaft exhaust...it was cheap too. I think I spent $30 on it.

    I agree on the TrueFire. I know allot of T guys run it, but I just like a good 'ol points dizzy personally. I think you guys will be happy.

    Since the head is a VW piece....almost anything for a VW will fit in that housing....including a VW compatible Vertex/Scintilla Magneto :D.....lots of future possibilities..

    Sent from my SGH-T699 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  29. Love it, looks great.
     
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