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Technical 235 cleanup/rebuild thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oilslinger53, Sep 27, 2019.

  1. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Yay, got my cam, carbs and cleaners! Trans is being rebuilt right now. Taking block and head for chem dip and machining this week if I get a chance, dropping off a bunch of small stuff at the chrome shop, getting intake smoothed and polished. Gonna clean up the firewall while the block is away, then it’s time for the fun!
    Candy paint for the block and head, and assemble all the clean pretty parts into an engine!

    This is my first car, and I’ve had it since 1997. Other than running this engine once a week, and driving around the block every couple months it’s basically just been sitting in my garage being used as a storage locker for the last 8 years. I’m pretty damn stoked to finally get this thing healthy again. IMG_3111.JPG


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  2. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 5,022

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Way :cool:
     
  3. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Got my new rings in, but noticed a difference from the old rings.
    The old ones were chamfered like the drawing here. The top ring is the same, but the second ring is square. They were ordered from Hastings for this specific application, is this anything to be concerned about? [​IMG][​IMG]


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  4. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    On closer inspection, 6 of them are chamfered on the inside, but the instructions say that the chamfer should be face down, while the ones I took off has the inside chamfer face up.

    Man, I don’t wanna fuck this up. Little things like this drive me crazy. So many weird little things I’m not sure of. The ring thing. No lock washers or palnuts on the rod cap studs.


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  5. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Contact Hastings and consult your service manual.
     
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  6. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Looked at the manual, and called Hastings. Both say to put the square ring on top. Hastings said they’ve never seen chamfered top rings, and I noticed that the ones that were on it weren’t all the same. Some chamfered, some stepped, one of them was square... between this, the weird mismatched pushrods, the one headbolt that was too short, and just kinda sitting in its hole, and the way the transmission was put together I think it was rebuilt with whatever parts were just laying around the shop.


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  7. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Engine and head are now getting chem dipped, in the meantime I figured I’d waste some money and rebuild my perfectly fine oil pump. I notice the original driven impeller has a hole in it. The new one does not. I figure this hole is there so it can get oil between the impeller and the shaft. Should I drill a similar hole into the new impeller? The tolerance on this thing is tight as fuck. I put it together without the gasket for a test fit and it’s so tight you can’t even turn it, old or new. I can’t imagine it would get much lubrication without that hole.
    Old on left, new on right. [​IMG]


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  8. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Oh yeah, I also modded the block for a full flow oil filter. I’ll post a step by step once the engine is complete unless it’s already been done. Here’s a preview


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  9. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

  10. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

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  11. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,443

    Hellfish
    Member

    I may be wrong, but I think that Thickstun is for a 216. You'll need different alignment rings to fit it, or you might need to open up the runners a bit.
     
  12. HotRodWorks
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 258

    HotRodWorks
    Alliance Vendor

    I used a Tattersfield that was for a 216. I made adapter rings. I also needed to space it out 1/4” to better clear the Fenton headers. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  13. I am concerned about your oil pump.
    It should not be very tight to turn,,,,,you need to check that out a little closer.

    Tommy
     
  14. HotRodWorks
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 258

    HotRodWorks
    Alliance Vendor

    I agree. I would be more inclined to use the original parts. They typically don’t wear out.


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  15. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Does your oil pump need the gasket installed to have proper clearance?
     
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  16. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    I think that’s the issue. Clearance between the cover and the impellers should be .001-.003. Gonna put it together again tonight, with the gasket and see if it turns.


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  17. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Those are some damn nice adapter/spacers! Almost a shame that they won’t be visible!


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  18. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Put the pump back together with the gasket this time instead of loc515, and it spins freely.
    Also looks like the hole on the original driven impeller is for a roll pin. It’s the same as the drive impeller, which is pinned into the shaft. The new one is just a press fit, so no pin and no hole.


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  19. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Dropped off a bunch of small stuff at the chrome shop and got my head and block back from the chemstrip place today. Off to the machine shop, then clean the fuck out of it, paint it, and put it all together[​IMG]


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  20. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 3,834

    southcross2631
    Member

    I can't tell you how many in frame overhauls my dad did on 235 's I have seen him pull in the yard one night with his 59 Biscayne that had a hole in a piston.
    Pull the head and pan in the car take a piston and rod out of another 235 run a hone down the hole .
    Stick it back together and drive it to work the next day and drive it for years that way.
    They are very simple and reliable engines.
     
  21. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from covina CA

    Little update, work slowed a little, so the build also slowed a little. I’ve got all my parts, block and head have been chem dipped to remove all the scale. Saving up a little so I can take the block and head to the machine shop, and a bunch of stuff to the chrome shop. While we’re waiting, here’s a mock-up. When it’s done it’ll look like this, but the intake will be polished, headers powder coated, and engine doused in candy to match the car. [​IMG][​IMG]


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  22. LAROKE
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,700

    LAROKE
    Member

    I was having alignment issues with the Thickstun valve cover until I realized there was a slight interference between the oil filler cap and the rocker shaft oil line. I also grew weary of getting the four stovebolts started that fasten it to the head in the small recesses of the Thickstun cover. Knowing the cover comes off often to adjust the valves in my case, I replaced the stovebolts with studs and hexnuts.
     
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  23. 6-bangertim
    Joined: Oct 3, 2011
    Posts: 377

    6-bangertim
    Member
    from California

    I've been foolin with these ol turds off and on since I was a ute back in the '70's, have a TON of advice to offer...

    For now, check the thickness of the oil pump gasket with a mic - should NOT be more than .009". I've noticed gasket sets come with thicker gaskets - NOT GOOD for low-speed oil pressure! On my last build, made my own from a file folder that mic'ed at .008", worked GOOD!

    Use MOLLY rings, they break-in as easy as cast, but last much longer - well worth the price!

    Tom Langdon should have the adaptor rings for your intake.

    IMO, stellite exhaust valves and hard seats are a MUST for a daily-driver, but kinda overkill for a weekend hobby car...

    Feel free to message me with any questions or parts needs! I'll be checking in as your build progresses.

    Good Luck, Tim
     
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