I'm currently in the process of splitting the exhaust manifold on my 223 Ford I6 and was wondering before I went any further.... What is better, a 2-4 split or 3-3 split. You can't split this manifold down the center but, the 3-3 split although much harder to do, it is possible. Any input would be helpful. Thanks..
Its kinda crude but this is a quick drawing I did of 3-3 split on 223 I6 exhaust manifold. http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh161/texas_rat_trap/?action=view¤t=schmatic.jpg
Hey Buddy, 3 x 3 sounds best but do you know what you are getting into if you plan to use the original manifold and cut it. playing with cast iron is not always successful. Ever just thought of getting some headers or extractors made out of pipe! Not being critical, but just trying to understand your logic here and warn you of the problems with CI.
do a 2/4 split if you're gonna go cast iron. welding cast aint alchemy.. its only metal. a few simple rules to follow just like any other kind of welding. easiest way to split 3/3 is with tube headers, not with a long ass crossover like you have pictured
Welding Cast Iron manifolds are not just metal and here is a quote from the Guru in CA. Use tube as Fiddyfour suggests you will get more performance for less effort in the long run. If you are still wanting to got the CI route email Gary Reed. The best way to weld on an old exhaust manifold is to us a powder torch with a high nickel powder blended for cast iron. You can check with some automotive machine shops to see if you can find someone who has one. There was a misguided craze a few years ago about trying to repair cast iron cylinder heads by powder welding. It turned out to be a farce but the good thing is that the only thing the powder process is good for is exhaust manifolds. Old manifolds suffer from a phenomenon called graphitization and welding severly graphitized cast iron is nearly impossible because it won’t melt. The powder process does not require melting the base metal so it is similar to brazing but with an power that expands and contracts very close to the rate of the old cast iron. Gary J. Reed email [email protected] CEO LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. 1015 S. Soderquist Rd. Turlock, CA 95380 800-736-8261 209-632-2345 Cell 209-614-4114 Fax 209-632-1740
the 2-4 works ok and sounds like a split mostly should used to cut a hole and shove in a plate to block for a true split and used a 1 1/2" piece of black iron pipe amd flex tube but that was but that was 45 years ago and i was a wild youth then cut the hole with 6011 on the farm buzz box and welded it up with that too!! I would hate to imagine how hard those old manifold will be now to weld, then most were about 10 years old then!!!
Well I know it was not the right thing to do but hey what was the worst thing that would come of this...I would be buying a $350 pair of Clifford split headers. So again I know this way is probably frowned on but this is how I welded cast iron: I throughly cleaned the manifold then I used Mapp Gas & Oxygen torch to heat the metal red hot & then I used A Mig with inner shielded flux core .035 wire & layed the bead down and they are not the prettiest welds but they are strong & no cracks or leaks. I think the key is to after each spot weld heat with torch every once in awhile to keep metal from cooling down to rapidly to avoid cracking..but the hotter the cast iron the better it welded or so it seemed. I did the 3 way split and like FiddyFour said I used the long ass crossover tube..but this was the only way I could get 3-3 split. But the crossover is tucked in very close. I think it looks pretty wicked with the Offy intake & dual 94's. I will post pic's soon so you all can make fun.. and remember I used stuff that was lying around the garage & I started out just foolin' around but turned out pretty nice.
If the split manifold doesn't hold up, you can order one of these babies: $165 at Sacramento Vintage Ford...
Already looked into that...it won't fit because its for truck not car, without modification anyways, which would be an option if the manifold doesn't hold up.
cross-over tube connecting front 2 ports to last port, I have not cut the 2nd split yet between the last port & 2nd to last port
this is mock up on old 215 engine for carb, intake & exhaust manifold fitment and I haven't made 2nd exhaust flange yet trying to figure out placment and what year model flange to use something readily available.
This is how you hack an exhaust ! I can't take credit for it, but am living with it....was impressed it has stayed together for 10 years that the previous owner had it. I will probably go with a header as the manifold is beyond saving. I like what you did!
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