Technical 1959 Chevy Truck Suspension, Axle and Brake Project

Thank you

 

I have a rh front spring hanger just sitting around. Yours for the shipping.
Also have springs f&r, a 59 rear axle housing, etc.
Put a kimbridge frame stub in my 57, and have a lot of stuff sitting around



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VERY nice work!

Might I suggest a sway bar? The sidewalls flex much more with steel-belted radials than bias or glass-belted tires. making body roll muce more noticeable. ONE evasive move on the freeway convinced me!

 

Thank you, Yes sway bars are going in for sure!

 

Great thread.
All these trucks need is a little love and half a bucket of money.


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Shocks ordered and awaiting their arrival.

In the mean time I went to work on the differential. The carrier would not come out with any amount of persuasion. The spider gears had to be removed to make room for a 2x4. I hit the far end of the 2x4 and jarred the carrier loose along with a bunch of rust. There is a buildup or a rusty pile that goes down the center of each axle tube, a pile sitting on the bottom of the housing and a line the traces the path of the ring gear.

As crusty as that thing is it seems like I did ok. The axles are good, no ridges and sealing surface are smooth. The bearing mating surfaces in the case look ok. The spider gears are pretty worn but the ring and pinion look newish and still have paint markings on them. The carrier is a series 4

Date code: HA0912K
(65-69 C-G10 3.73 Sept 12 McKinnon Ind Canada)
Axle Housing ID: 3896838 GM6
Carrier: 3886616 GM4N
Ring gear: 3817778 11-41 GM62 (3.73 ratio)
Pinion gear:

Everything looks rebuildable as it sits but I am leaning towards an Eaton Detroit Locker. Engine will be 3-400 Hp and 700r4 will be upgraded accordingly however no drag racing or off roading.

 

Shocks arrived yesterday, ready to go. Before ordering I read up on Bilstein shocks. Mostly 4x4 forums where people complained that they only received the shocks without grommets or washers. I don’t know if I was lucky or just read misinformation. My shocks came with rubber grommets and metal bolt inserts. I already had a set of shock washers in perpetration so I can install these. When I was shopping for shocks I could not find any mention of part/model numbers. Even after buying these I found the model number was ground off by the reseller.

Pictures to follow.

 

Greased the whole front end, popped the rubber grease fitting plugs on. Truck went back up in the air and the shocks installed.

Only needed one shock washer per end. Each one had to be opened to 7/16 to make it on their bolt. Granted they are on the wrong direction but that was so they would fit. Also they are about two sizes too big so they will be replaced in the future with the correct ones. The brake hose went on with out any excitement.

Do not put in the metal grommets if you are using original replacement hanger bolts, they don’t fit. What a pain in the butt it will be to squeeze them out.

 

Looks good lowered, did you measure the actual amount of drop it gave ? Mine wasn't 3 inches but I assume it may settle and who knows how weak my springs were to begin with, Posies says measured against new stock springs.

 

Draglink installed and torqued to 55lbs. Brake lines attached and truck up on stilts ready for new master and a bleed.



That is one right fit...

 

Thanks Swade!
I didn’t take a before measurement but I used to be able to slide under without jacks without a problem. I can’t squeeze under anymore I would say she came down at least 2 inches.

What did you get shock mount to shock mount? Mine is 13-1/2 on one side and 13-3/4 on the other right now. I haven’t been on the road yet but I was jumping on my bumper when I had her on the ground.

 

I measured from ground on spindle line up to bottom of fender but forgot what it is off hand, I think I wrote it down somewhere, it was either 2 or 2 1/2 inches. I even took photos of the yard stick but must've deleted them once I was done...lol

 

Master Cylinder time...

I got some Dot3 Valvoline because it was on sale. I filled the master and bench bled it. I connected all the attachments to the combination valve and mocked it up. Front brake line attached and rear original style line was 6” short (this is where front and rear would go past the master and Tee off). I attempted to bend the original style replacement into position however it decided to kink. I attempted to cut and reflare it but that proved detrimental to my flaring peg? The little tang broke and the line smooshed in the wrong direction. I went to Pep Boys and found a nice 1/4x 12” replacement - Part number PA-412. Again this proved a failure because it also decided to kink at the bend. I ordered three more because it was the last one at the auto parts store. They don’t re-stock brake parts so I decided not to chance a wait.

Lesson learned, if using original style brake lines you need to bend the 12” section to fit properly.

Second lesson learned do not go past 90 degrees on a tube bend

Third lesson part number PA-412 is a good replacement for damaged said line.

Since the master was all bled and prepped it needed to go into a ziplock bag to wait for the lines to come in. Leaving it exposed to the air may have allowed for dust or humidity to compromise the fresh fluid.

 

Another Pep boys that had one of these lines. The last two attempts were a 90 and an “O” but this created a crimp. I made a really ugly “S” and it makes up. There is another in the mail so I could make a prettier one. I need to add a heat barrier between exhaust and the master. There is a lot more line near the exhaust with the new routing. Eventually the exhaust route will change.

 

Master went in without much of a fight. The brake pedal push rod is 1-1/4” too short. I did what I could with a needle nose plier and I think I got to every corner because they all leaked. I am exhausted so I’ll save the final bleed for another day.

Originally I got a dual pot master for drum/drum and the bracket and kit for it. I figured a dual pot master is a dual pot master and changing bore size wouldn’t change anything else, that is incorrect. In case anyone is doing the same operation, I needed to get a 3/8-24 x 5” partial threaded bolt. I will cut the head off and round the end down. Total length from end to end will be 5”



In case anyone is wondering why I have tape and paper it is so no contaminants get into the fluid while I refill and bleed. It would have been a lot easier to put in a remote fill and I am still considering the possibility.

 

McMaster Carr always comes through:

I trimmed the head off the screw and worked the bolt on the grinding wheel. Looks pretty good I must say

Bolt needs to be 5” minimum, if anyone needs any I have a few extra.

 

Just read thru your entire thread. Great work! Now you've gotten me concerned my leaf spring bushings, etc....

 

I measured one front the other day and from center of mounting stud to center of mounting stud I got 14 1/2, which is a full inch off your measurements, wondering if you measured the same way ?

 

Thanks Greg! Looks like you have a ford but I hope some of this helps.

Funny how this happens! For me it started with a leaky wheel cylinder and a weak pedal. All I can say is good luck and don’t rush.

 

Swade,
I did the same measurements.

I have a 57 283 with original intake and that pushbar. Do you think I’m that much heavier?

I am hitting the drag link with the driver side wheel about an inch before lock. Are you making contact with your wheels?

 

I'm missing my radiator, all fluids and a battery, maybe that's the difference, who knows.
As far as the draglink hitting I don't know, mine is just a static piece of garage art, I haven't turned the wheel lock to lock that I can remember..lol I'm not really working towards getting it on the road at this point, I'm just bolting a few parts on so it looks better sitting there.

 

I have an extra radiator, if you need one you’re welcome to it. Man I can appreciate your garage art, does your avatar hang around in your garage too?

 

Ha, I wish, I wouldn't have no problem making it out there every day. I've got an aluminum universal radiator I'm going to try and use, first I have to put the motor/trans mounts in place so I can see what I'm working with.
I've got to get the 41 and 51 back together before I concentrate on the 57, I battle a bit of depression so somedays I can't get motivated to go tackle things, but we'll get there.

 

AH the list, Slow and steady wins the race!

Depression is definitely a battle, keep on keepin on! For me being out in the garage lifts my spirits, being in the house feels like prison.

 

One step forward one step back... these last 10 yards are steep and muddy!!

The pushrod is all setup and the whole assembly attached. After taking a good look either the bracket is crooked or this assembly is off.




I’ll install a half inch longer bolt and collar. With any luck that should be the last surprise with this part of the upgrade.

Progress-
The right bolt is what I had on the new axle and the adjustment was where it had to be to stop the wheel making contact with the draglink. The left bolt was the ugly one from my original axle. I guess pervious owner changed it for a reason. In case anyone needs the info this bolt is 3/8-24 fine thread and half inch longer than original.

 

Took a trip down to an old auto parts store today because the Depot didn’t have the longer bolt. I am glad I went there because these were hanging around.


Found the longer bolt, added a lock washer and managed to move the master over a touch. To my eye this looks pretty straight now.


Then the “new” rear wheel cylinder that was replaced a few months ago and never driven with. That thing was leaking like crazy and I couldn’t bleed the brakes the way it was.

The box sitting on the bench from when it was changed. Never even actually used just installed.

Either this thing was on the shelf for a long time or the quality control sucks. I slapped the new one on and called it a day. Maybe now I can bleed those brakes.

 

Progress is progress, looks great. Oddly enough it's dumping rain all week (and last weekend) so mine has come to a crawl. I did go with the mint green paint from HD. It's really going to be my daily driver starting next week, as the Coronavirus has halted the vanpool program at work.....I can nap in the back during lunch .

 

I am jelly I wish I could drive my truck to work!

 

Continue to fight leaks when time allows. I turned the driver front hose to get it straighter. The driver side caliper also has been leaking at the brass gasket. The bolt heads were stripping so they couldn’t get any tighter. The manufacturer sent new caliper hose bolts to replace the old ones.

I reinstalled the bolt and proceeded to tighten and re-bleed everything. Found some more leaks along the way including around the front bleeders. Slow and steady.

 

Passenger side caliper bolt replaced. I mustered up the courage to do another full round of bleeding. I started at the rear pass, rear driver, front pass and front driver. Two hours later I finished snapping everything back together. This is my one man bleeder setup.

Pump the brakes, bottle jack hold the pedal, climb under open the valve, climb out, take out the jack, repeat, repeat, repeat. I know there are better ways but as miserable as this was it worked.

A few tips I learned along the way:
I got some clear rubber hose and put a zip tie at the end. I put the zipped end on the bleeder tip and the other in a water bottle with a round hole in the cap. This allowed for fluid to cover the bleeder tip so I can see bubbles. Also when you’re on your last bleed you don’t have to worry about introducing air into the lines from turning the wrench the wrong way.

I made a cardboard floor protector with the waxy colorful part facing the truck. I cut a hole so I could fill the reservoirs up and taped it down. This was way better than that ugly paper because it stays put and protects better.

If you get these bolts in your front caliper kit, throw them out.
Performance Online was very helpful they sent out the heavier ones right away. I will say they have been very helpful throughout the whole process.

Another tip I have for anyone who is doing this is DO NOT use stainless lines, they are rigid and very unforgiving. If they are not lined up absolutely perfectly they will leak.
Do not use original style replacement lines they are too short from rear of master to top of rear differential.

The bleeding is done for now but have to make some changes to make this 100%.
The front driver side T-Block needs new washers. It weeps no matter how tight I make it.

After all these bleeds the bleeder screws are rounded and need replacement. They also weep where they meet the power coating.

The rear of combination valve to the top of rear diff brake line needs to be replaced. Right now it is part steel and part stainless. The joint leaks at both ends of the stainless and there are way too many turns.

I am going to let this simmer for a few days and look again for leaks. If I don’t find any I can finally do a shakedown.