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Hot Rods 1959 Apache wiring help..please

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 396/425, Sep 14, 2020.

  1. 396/425
    Joined: Jun 11, 2014
    Posts: 70

    396/425

    Anybody an expert on wiring? I have a 59 chevrolet 1/2 ton truck...everything works electrically except the blinker lamps on the dash and the lights that light up the dash when the headlights are on. Externally all the lights and blinkers work fine. I’m sure it’s simple, but when it comes to electrical...I’m the worst. Yes I tried new bulbs. I appreciate anyone who can direct me. I’ve tried to study a wiring diagram....but it might as well be the directions to fly a fighter jet as far as I’m concerned. Thanks. Oh...it’s all bone stock, unmolested factory wiring. Also...I can’t find the fuse block...ha...does it even have one?
     
  2. Does it have bulbs in the sockets? Are the sockets in place? The cluster is the ground. Tursignals are triggered from signal switch. Dash lites come off the gray wire on the headlight switch. Pull a socket our check the bulb then ground it.
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,088

    squirrel
    Member

    No fuse panel, unless it was installed by the dealer when they installed an accessory radio, heater, etc. And even then, they weren't really required, my 59 came with the radio and heater, that each had an inline fuse.

    The turn signals...if they work outside the truck, then they should work inside. There is a bulb in the cluster for each side, connects with a wire to the same wire that goes to the front for each side.

    Of course I"m assuming you have the original Chevy turn signal switch, which is built into the cup behind the steering wheel. If you have some clamp on switch, then I would not expect those lights inside to work.

    Dash lights. The gray wires go to them, and there might be a fuse in the light switch, that has to be working properly. The most common problem is the resistor dimmer thing where you turn the light switch knob to make the go off, dim, brighter, bright. The contact gets corroded, the resistance wire coil falls out of the ceramic that holds it, etc.

    Best way to chase it is with a 12v test light, which has a probe you poke onto the circuit you're testing, and a ground wire you clamp to a piece of bare body metal. The light in the test light lights up when you find voltage. Start at the light switch, follow the Red wire (that's where power comes in), find the contact for the tail lights that goes on when you turn on the lights, then see if you get power where the Gray wire plugs in.
     
    302GMC likes this.

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