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Projects 1956 Pontiac Gasser 389 swap

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by wvenfield, Oct 29, 2014.

  1. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I'm lazy. I could go look but as I said............are you running ladder bars? I've been wondering about that with the X frame. Just wondering how you did it if so.
     
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  2. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    20170716_125514.jpg The ladder bars are parallel with the ground . I had to make a drop bracket on the outside of the frame to mount the crossmember for the ladder bars, a few inches below bottom of frame. You would have to have a really lowered car for the bars to be anywhere near the x frame. Also would need housing floaters on the rear end if going ladder bars.if you make my pic larger can see how far down they are
     
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  3. I relocated the springs in line with the frame on my 55 chevy wagon. all it took was a torch. long bolts washers and rear shackles made from angle iron. I didn't need any kit. I did what they did to the Project X 57 chevy. N spring pockets 001.JPG spring pockets 002.JPG spring pockets 003.JPG spring pockets 004.JPG spring pockets 005.JPG ow the tri fives have a boxed frame that's pretty stout.
     
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  4. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    Heres a better pic, can get more if you need any FB_IMG_1508721893782.jpg
     
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  5. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Perfect. Thanks.
     
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  6. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,295

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Unless you just don't like the look of radius'd rear fender openings I would just cut them out if it were mine. Look at 55Chieftain's car - looks great, definitely period looking and easy maintenance. Why worry about saving the rear fender openings, you already chopped off the front of the frame.
     
  7. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    The frame was damaged from a wreck that happened before I bought it. It's why I had a 55 nose.

    I like the radius'd look. I like the look of it not, even more.
     
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  8. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 2,409

    southcross2631
    Member

    Just stretch and raise your stock opening. It gives you more room and keeps the original look. If done right it looks factory. Did some 55's like that. Some Nova's also.
    I had an O/T Nova Top Sportsman car that you had to hang the rear end and unhook the coil overs and wheelie bars to get the 14x32's off . Pain in the ass.
     
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  9. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I noted above that we had considered doing that. Most likely I will get it running before worrying any more about this.
     
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  10. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Next question.........I'm thinking I'm going to just order a set of SBC headers and adjust as necessary. I don't have much room on the drivers side. This is probably the best pic I have. Mounts weren't made yet but they aren't the problem.

    [​IMG]

    I don't have a tubing bender. I might even consider swapping out the column for something else but then that creates it's own work. It would be great if others anywhere near me did things like this where I could borrow a set of headers to set in place. I do better with eyeballing something real. LOL

    Anyway, I could get a set of 55 Chevy and I would think they would be close. A set of pre made fat fender headers are cheap. I even looked at the way the the F100 headers upturn thinking I could just add upward bends and probable clear somewhat easy.

    Any thoughts?
     
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  11. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Also......anyone used one of the cheap-o hydraulic pipe benders? I've read where some say they work OK and others that say they need modified to work OK.

    How about something like the Jegs manual one?
     
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  12. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 8,517

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    The port angle will be wrong from a chevy to a pontiac.
     
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  13. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 8,517

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    If you have enough bends and a band saw (be nice but ended) or a steady hand and cut off wheel you wont need a tubing bender.
     
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  14. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I am aware the angle is wrong. You either start with a set and adjust or make a set from scratch.

    Continuing the question above. The F100 is for a Y block. Closer center exhaust more like the Pontiac.

    Just thinking.
     
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  15. Hard to tell in your picture there. Looks like # 3 can go forward, but # 5 is the problem. If you don't want to do fender well headers, I guess you could go out, and then around the column and back down.
    Never did one that way, but it might work.You could go around the frame too, if the spring wasn't there.You could do # 7 that way, to add some length to it.
    Looks like a f/w deal only, to me. You could use a SBC f/w tail end, but the Pontiac engine makes it tough. It usually does.
     
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  16. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    [​IMG]

    I stole the pic. Pontiac flange......weld in elbow bends and it should clear. Get plain steel. I may have to adjust around the steering column.
     
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  17. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    Ive used 3 tube and modified a set of 4 tube gto headers that I still have. I only had to do the driver side. Wish you were closer for shipping cost. Have plenty of pics of the headers I built on my fb page.
     
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  18. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    So you are saying you might have a set you would sell? Fenderwell?
     
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  19. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    Neither the 3 or 4 tube are fenderwell. I'm keeping the ones I made. Is your engine going to be mounted high enough for any exhaust to clear the steering gearbox? My 4 tube are ceramic coated except where I cut and moved a few tubes.
     
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  20. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I'll have room with some finagling.
     
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  21. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I may only have the same 4-5 people find this question posted here but here goes. I have no idea.

    I picked up an old Hays pressure plate. I believe it's 3600 lb. I called Jeg's and they said the Hays disk for this plate has been discontinued but no big deal, other discs will work fine. Overkill for my application? Probably. Would I get tired of it if I drove the car a lot? Probably but I will never end up putting a lot of miles on the car. I'd have to think with the proper disc I shouldn't have to worry about ever replacing it.

    I haven't decided yet. I would think the easiest way to do this is with a hydraulic throw out bearing. I've read some threads here and most say they work fine in this application. As to an earlier question, the rear end has Richmond gears. 4:11. The rear came out of the car the above Plate did. M21. I'm still measuring.......8-9 inch slicks. 400ish HP.

    What am I missing?
     
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  22. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 637

    Joe H
    Member

    Install the headers backwards, then loop the pipes back under the car or exit out the front like a turbo car. There is a GMC truck on the Stovebolt site with Pontiac motor and Ram Air manifolds facing the wrong direction. It all cleared the steering / frame just fine, and didn't look to bad. You can cross under the motor with the headers and make 180* out headers out of them! Chevrolet headers won't be anywhere near close, so buy some used cheap-o headers and cut the flanges off and start new.
     
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  23. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    That's the way the factory did it originally on the drivers side. You would have thought someone would have thought......."there must be a better way". LOL
     
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  24. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    These line up pretty close. A little cutting and a little twisting and tweeking. IMG_20171027_143809946.jpg
     
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  25. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    What size are the tubes?
     
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  26. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Lol....I don't remember. I'll have to look it back up. (I recall they are under 2)
     
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  27. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    Hope at least 1 5/8. I did a slip fit into collector headers just because of going between frame and steering column for #7 pipe
     
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  28. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I imagine I will have to do the same.
     
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  29. It will go faster with 1, 3/4 tubes..Even the 350 P's do.
     
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  30. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    It will go faster with bigger tires and cut quarters but for right now, I'm trying to get it together and then we will go from there. :D
     
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