Projects 1955 Dodge PU custom

I forgot to mention about the cab spacers and windows. I added 1/4" and the cab still seems a little low. Im mostly judging based on the angle that the hood approaches the cab and how it sits, but i will know more once i put the fenders back on.

And for the electric windows, I moved the track to the center, and now the wood template just binds up because there is more drag on one side due to a longer length of window track. So Ill probably just move it back.

 

Could you post pics of this? I would like to see what you did. Thanks.
Steve-

 

ill get some pictures tomorrow for you

 

Here is the rack mounted up and the current (half) column.

 

Here is the extendable u joint.



And some steering shaft and the other half column



Parts so far even though i need another u joint



And the floor mounting plates

 

Thanks for the pics. I have read much here on the hamb about putting a r & P on a straight axle. Many say 'don't do it because of bump steer.' But it looks like you have successfully done so. The only part of this that I'm not sure about is the slip joint for the steering column and how it works. Did you machine that up yourself or have someone make that for you? The idea appeals to me to do the same, as I want to put a drop axle in later on, but my steering box is worn (as most are on these old trucks.) Just looking for options that will work. Thanks for taking the time to post pics.
Steve-

 

Glad your keeping on pushing bro. Look forward to more pics soon


Posted using my ouija board electronic device.

Outkasts C.C.

 

the extendable u joint that I'm using is off of the same late 90s Jaguar as my rack and pinion. I would recommend using this rack because it is a rear steer design so you can use the stock steering arms that come off of the hubs and the rack has enough travel so you won't be making 10 pt turns. (I believe it will turn the wheels to the stops so it will retain full stock steering radius capability)

Back to the u joint, it can extend about 1" which is fine as long as you have the rack input laid back to no more than 30 degrees from the horizontal (with my suspension travel). I put mine horizontal just to be safe so that it behaves more like a pivot and doesn't have to extend and contract much.

Since the rack input is horizontal, it makes the steering linkage to the column a little difficult but Ill update you with my progress. The other hard thing is just avoiding the leaf springs and mounting it to the curved axle (basically just the brackets).

Ill get some pics of the extendable u joint compressed and extended, as well as the exact year of the Jaguar for you.

 

Still working on the steering shaft linkage... There is just so little space to make up the difference in angle between the rack and the column. So far i have 4 u joints and one double u joint with 2 shaft supports.

 

Im taking a little break from the steering for a bit now that my truck is inside the garage. Sometimes I have to do that otherwise it is no longer fun if you know what i mean. In the meantime, I am building some shift linkage, and it is harder than i thought to keep it from flexing. I just have to keep strengthening it i guess.

 

thats a great ideal on the seat mount

 

I picked up a dual 8" brake booster and master cylinder yesterday at the Big 3 Swap Meet in SD. Now all i have to do is the linkage and brake lines, then the brakes are done.

 

Check the Dodge trucks for a 'slip-type' shaft. My 2002-2500 4x4 has one.

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Keep it going, I bought a 55 last year. I haven't started working on it yet. Want to build a custom with it.
Glad your staying MOPAR!!!

 

Can't wait to see it on here!

 

Wow, it has been a while. I have sadly been too busy with school and two jobs to work on it. But I have been designing brake pedal linkage to the booster to get me the right stroke on the master cylinder and the pedal, because I don't want a lot of pedal travel. I will post pics once I weld it together.

 

the passenger car oil pans are more of a center sump,,

LA motors not poly, 273 318 340 oil pans interchange, center or rear sump, and require the correct pick up tube,,,

the 360 motor,, car,van,motor home,truck, etc oil pans do not interchange with any other small block mopar,,,the crank jurnuals are bigger on a 360 making the ends of the oil pan bigger then the other small block mopar motor,,, all 360 motors are externally balanced,,requiring a balanced convertor or a special flex plate,,,and also require the correct front harmonic balancer.,, not to be interchanged with the 1973 340 thats a completely differnt balance also

 

Good info here, this brings me back talking about oil pans haha

 

I got the fuel system pretty much all buttoned up except for the sender. Maybe the only thing Im worried about is that since the electric pump has to be mounted level with the bottom of the tank, it is pretty close to the ground, so I might have to add a plate for protection later on. (future pics will show this) And then I mounted up the digital gauges I got from Summit (Intellitronix Brand), and I can't wait to see them working. I started doing some wiring, weatherpack on the outside, and molex connectors on the inside. And I have the brake and gas pedals modified for the final time I believe.

 

cool little truck; don't see many of them around at all. can't think of the last time i've seen one, really.
there used to be one in/around Los Angeles, maybe 20 years ago, that was a mild custom with a flat 6 in it.

i had a rusty heap of a '55 for a while, but it never made it past "rusty heap of parts" stage.

 

I guess I'm in the process of turning that heap into usable parts haha

 

Its been a little while, but I guess that is what college does to you. I am still pounding away at the wiring, making it look like a factory wiring harness and easily serviceable. I got the fuel tank cleaned out and ready to be painted. Any ideas for durable brush on paints? Besides that, there is too much to talk about that a couple pictures would do much better at explaining. That should be soon enough.

 

here is some wiring. I swear it looks a lot better in person. The dangling wires are mostly for the radio. And Ill see if this new picture posting is working for me.

 

Here is the latest on the engine and how it is looking with the modified radiator and fan shroud I made. It looks like the pictures are too big now to put 2 in per post.

 

engine wiring

 

And don't forget the pcv valve i machined

 

dash panels and glovebox door. The gauges are digital and are covered up with the brown paper. And you can see the pedals in their final locations.

 

center console and its wiring. I left some room for more switches (maybe).

 

Here is the fuel pump mounted. This is one thing I am unsure about. The instructions say to mount it at the lower level of the tank, which it is, but I am worried about it hitting speedbumps and stuff. I've heard from many people that the higher you mount it, the faster it will die from trying to suck fuel. What do you guys think? Will a protection plate suffice?

And here is some brake line plumbing and the shock mounts.

 

And finally, a headlight bezel that I soldered a new bracket onto.
with the new 12v headlight