Projects 1953 mild custom build

I've used that same Peel 'n Seal stuff on the floors of several of my cars, it works great, seems to do a nice job of heat and sound insulation for about a quarter of the cost of any of the commercially available products and has held up really well for me.

I don't think the stuff shown above is Peel 'n Seal, because it comes in rolls only about 6" wide so it lays out in long thin strips and would show a lot more seams, the stuff above looks like it's in big sheets.

 

I dig it, thanks!

 

In the past ive just done searches best as i can based on price by sq ft coverage and the mill. Thickness, i dont think ive ever bought a product that simply didnt work. Some of them are a nightmare to remove but to be honest this is just aimed to be a mild cruiser with a cool original hot rod look. It wont be crazy fast or loud so whatever product gets used i am sure will be just fine. Side note, i have found that a lot of noise cancellation happens when covering holes and openings in the sides and doors (behind the upholstery)with peel and stick soumd deadener

 

You're getting after it. I really like this project and thread.

I used the same foil-bubble insulation over kilmat in my later model daily driver truck. The combo of the 2 worked well.

Interior, covers too big is much more manageable than too small pop some seams and tighten them up, if additional foam doesn't get the fit you want, sew in beading for hog rings and STRETCH.

Headliner. If you have the old one, there's your template, but they need a good stretch, tuck and roll will be difficult especially on first try.

You have a very impressive engine hoist.

I also use scrap sheetmetal for many patches. Get some bigger scrap pieces, overall much less work to make a larger panel. OLD Refrigerators, washer and dryers and filing cabinets are good source, if you can find olive green or doo-doo brown versions they're likely old enough to have been made in US and have very good sheetmetal, but any will do.
Steel table edge or a 2 healthy pieces of angle iron and clamps gives you a lot of forming capability.

 

They also make a wider version. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-...t-L-100-5-sq-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Roofing/3090099 I used the 6" wide to insulate the interior roof of my '54 it's been on for about 7 years in temperatures at up to 120 here in Phoenix.

 

Thanks! No original headliner and missing bows but local junkyard might have the bows, if i can get all bows i may just buy a pre produced headliner to prevent me making it too ugly! I may revisit the seat.... i feel like that is something easy enough to do at the very end. Appreciate the kind words and advice!

 

Before you tackle the headiner you might want to get this and read how it's done in these early Fords https://www.ebay.com/itm/1632899656...aRQe4MIWzVQTqjiH/Uw4/srgkEUp|tkp:BFBM-L_n3I1g It calls for removing the back glass so you will need a new seal for that.

 

Back glass is out, and i do indeed need to find a seal which is a trick to say the least. It had to come out either way, i have a cpl paper copies of that one!

 

This be it ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/150804645443?hash=item231ca84643:g:~dMAAOSwo0JWLXc6

 

Yeah, thats the only kind i can find. Finding one without the stainless slot is challenging

 

Went ahead and ordered that one

 

Found the Mainline seal here https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1953-ford-restoration-parts-windows-11349-ctg.htm

 

Well shoot haha i already ordered the one with the channel. I have searched many times for the one without the channel with no luck

 

Headliners are frustrating, even with premade, even after you've done a few. It's OK to step away and regroup

Get all your interior floor work, window channels derusted, prepped, painted before hand, once the headliner is in - windows in to protect it. Had a friend put in his headliner as he was finishing floors, weld spatter and the headliner had to be done a second time.

 

Much appreciated advice,never done one!

 

Beginning to rewire the car with the help of rebel today. They make it SO easy!!

 

Kool!!!I’ve been there, too!!!! Now it's good !!

 

Trans mount fabricated and set today, top of the carb is at 0° so engine should be at 3° and all should be well!

 

I could be wrong...but wouldnt i be better off running a fuel metering block than this fuel line setup? Wont this setup leave a carb starved? Wide open i mean...which this will never be, just wondering

 

Stayed up til 1 am cutting the drip rail off, hammering out patches on the anvil and then welding it all back together. Took about 3-4 hrs. Treated with zero rust then skimmed some seal skin over it most of which will probably be coming back off. Now just have to do the REST!

 

Thanks to scott, got 55 ford grill for dads car and extra front and rear bumper. Them scored some window stainless, trunk lid and headliner bows from the yard!

 

Looks like some good parts scores. I agree on the fuel block, what you have there currently is unlikely to give even fuel pressure to each carb.

As for that roof welding, I'd do all the welding and grinding before I put on any body filler. The area that you'll have to cut out and weld into that corner is likely to heat the filler up where you did the sides, and even if it looks OK yet, it's likely to have loosened it, which will cause failures later down the road. Body filler does not like welding heat. Doesn't take much, some guys even use a light touch of a propane torch to remove old body filler.

 

Yeah, i wondered about that...i had planned on trying to tack weld fill those with the air hose handy but it may well still cause issues, the holes are weird, all the way through with thick, solid metal around em. I can grind the filler back a bit to give more room and redo it. Appreciate the advice!

 

I had a spot of similar rust on the roof of my '57, looked like only a few holes but after blasting (from the inside) I had opened up several new ones. I decided just to weld them shut, figuring anything that would survive sandblasting is solid enough, but once I started welding I blew more holes into the area. Eventually I did get it all welded solid without having to cut a patch panel out but I don't think I saved any time doing it that way by the time I was done.

In the end it doesn't matter though, whatever it takes to keep making progress forward.

 

Ive fixed some with tacks and some with patches (lots of practice on this roof unfortunately) best way to get tacks to stick is using my copper puck as a backer, if i dont, they blow out as you described. Probably shouldve chopped the entire roof off and replaced it but im stubborn about quitting part way through

 

Requires a bit of imagination as theres quite a ways to go and lots of fine tuning ahead but i shortened the 55 grill tonight and wired it in place to get an idea of what itll look like

 

Cpl more with it wired down a bit so its less turned up... i really dig the look and where its going

 

Pulled the windshield, almost got the dash out. I think once its out, ill vut the rest of the old wires out, paint the firewall and inner fenders, then route the rebel harness (i havnt imstalled cause scott has a fancy dash for me) i think from there ill get it running then start on stripping all of paint off and primering. Have to install solenoid popper on trunk lid and fill the old holes as well as french the other headlight

 

Not really how I wanted to come back to this project... dad just got an mri back and theres potentially some not so good health things happening. Its not my place to talk about his private and personal business on the internet but I need to push this project back to the front. Have a customer fabrication job I will be wrapping up next week then the 53 gets towed to my house and progress will be RAPID

 

Keep your chin up and keep up the good work on this car.