Register now to get rid of these ads!

1953 3100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by project 41, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    I just purchased a 1953 3100 5 window it came with a 307 smallblock, mated to the original 4 speed and torque tube rear end the front suspension is stock. it seems to be geared pretty low i have a fresh built 283, saginaw 4 speed, and a 57 chevy car rear that i think i would like to put in this truck and use the original clutch and brake pedals. i am wondering what challenges this might present i was wanting to stay with 6 lug wheels but dont think the 5 lug rear would be too bad any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. thanks
     
  2. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,314

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    could just drill out the 5 lug for 6 lug on that rear end... and probably going to have to make a new crossmember for the trans and engine mounts I couldnt tell you Ive never messed with a 307 before but my first thought is they are totaly different mounts... best thing to do to get started is get the rear end up under there and then pull the front clip and shove that 283 in with the saginaw and see where it sits in the frame... its a moderate fab job but can be done in a weekend if you have the tools and the time.... and no honey do list! haha
     
  3. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,613

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The 57 rear is a good fit, but might not be the strongest. If its not too early it should bolt in place of the 307. the trans mount would need to be fabricated, but there are plenty of tube crossmember kits out there. slide it in and measure how much drop you need for mounting before ordering the kit. You can use passenger car drums to have matching 5 lugs front and rear.
     
  4. Use '53 or '54 Chevy passenger car hubs, drums, and bearings for five hole fronts. It's a bolt on deal.
     

  5. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    the 307 is a smallblock chevy mounts the same as the 283 they used the original bellhousing with the 307 it has themounts on the bellnousing and the motor is front mounted to the frame with a plate that bolts to the front of the engine loike a old hurst mount it would bolt to the 283 i am wondering can i uase the same bellhouseing the original 4 speed is mounted to for the saginaw that way i can retain the stock floor pedals sounds like the 57 car rear may be a bolt in
     
  6. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    would there be any reason not to leave the stock 4 speed and rear end
     
  7. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,314

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    Other than gearing and having a closed driveline not really... that I can see...
     
  8. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    i think original rear gearing is 4:10 possibly ok for short highway trips and around town m.p.g. is not really a high priority
     
  9. parklane
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 188

    parklane
    Member

    If the rear end is original, it would have a torque tube shaft. The original 4 speed isn't worth a sore ass, cuz 1st gear is for pulling stumps of starting off with a full load. Go with a Muncie/BW and about a 3:00 rear end gear. You'll be glad you did.
     
  10. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    the rear is original torque tube i have a saginaw 4 speed so what rear ends are close to a bolt in for these trucks wouldnt mind keeping 6 lugs but dont have to
     
  11. Hot Rod 50
    Joined: Jul 30, 2007
    Posts: 498

    Hot Rod 50
    Member

    Nothing is going to be bolt in for the rear. Your going to have to fab or move the spring pads more than likely. The springs on your truck are directly below the frame and most cars and newer pickups are outboard of the frame. I've heard a 4x4 s10 will be the right width and be 6 lug (I think). Then you'll need to have a driveshaft built.

    The 57 car rear will work fine I think. Like I said fab some spring pads or cut and move them over and you'll be good if they're not in the right place. Speedway sells a 5 lug conversion kit for those trucks. Could put disks on it as well while your at it.

    Your clutch linkage will not likely bolt up but if the clutch with your Saginaw is not hydraulic you should be able to fab it together.
     
  12. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    hydraulic clutch useing a early 60's chevy truck bell houseing might be a good way to go probably could use the pedals from same year truck as well
     
  13. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 27,904

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If it has a 307 in it with the bellhousing with the mounts that bolt to the crossmember you already have the correct bellhousing. Just unbolt the 307 from the bellhousing and slip it out, bolt the flywheel and clutch on the 283 and slide it in and bingo a truck with less power and more cool factor. You have everything right there to do it with and should be able to do it in one day pretty easy unless you need to do a lot of cleanup and take care of the Po's suspect engineering if there is any.

    The Saginaw will bolt right to the bellhousing that is in the truck . I run my Saginaw three speed without a rear mount an have for over 20 years but you could put a crossmeber and rear mount in if you wanted to after you had the trans in place. You will probably have to move the spring pads on the axle to match the truck springs and then drill the pads for the spring bolt so that the axle is centered in the wheel openings.

    The hardest part of the whole swap is figuring out how to hook up the emergency brake cables.

    If it were me I'd swap the engines out without taking the Bellhousing trans or rear end out and get it running and driving and then jack it up and pull the stock rear end and trans out and put the Saginaw and 57 rear end in. That makes things a two simple step process rather than one big process.
     
  14. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    that line of thinking makes sense the 283 is actually .030 over with some headwork and a nice intake and carb otherwise i would leave the 307 in it i am comfortable with running the saginaw with no rear mount the only reason i want to remove the original 4 speed and rear is because of gearing and the granny low in the trans thank you for your input
     
  15. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 27,904

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok they should have about the same power if the 307 was stock and in decent shape.

    Anyhow you shouldn't have any issues with the swap, it's just take stuff out and put stuff back this time around.

    When you get the stock axle out flip it over and measure from the center of the hole in the mounting pad ( spring bolt hole) to the center of the axle to get the distance you need to offset the holes in your 57 spring pads. It's either 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 but I don't remember which. The rear end is also going to sit slightly higher when you are done as the distance between the axle housing and springs will be a tad less unless you make new spring perches that take up that distance.
     
  16. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    thanks sounds like good advice
     
  17. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    has anyone used the stock clutch pedal with the smallblock and stock 4 speed and rear end like my truck has
     
  18. dan sutton
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 196

    dan sutton
    Member

    I am using the stock pedal setup with my 48 with a 283, T5, but with a 10 bolt rear. Stock clutch linkage connected to a modern throw out arm. Using a modified push rod from the stock brake pedal to a boosted dual MC.
     
  19. project 41
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 140

    project 41
    Member
    from colorado

    thanks thats what im hopeing to do does anyone know the easiest way to remove the originaal torque tube rear and 4 speed?
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.