The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by D_Lazaris, Oct 11, 2010.
Well as much as I loved the cream engine color it just did not work with the color of the engine compartment so for the last time (hopefully) I repainted the block.
This time it matches the engine compartment.
Oh and I also rebuilt the carbs.
I used the carburetor shop. They were a little pricey for the rebuilds but when i got them they were quality parts.
Well I went to fill the transmission up with oil, ad it started leaking like crazy from all the seals.... I guess that what I get for not replacing the seals and gaskets... HA wishful thinking eh?
Tomorrow I'm going to take it down to a tranny shop and see what they can do... I've never had any luck with transmission and I want this one to just work!
I am aso taking the engine down to a shop to see about a custom air intake for the supercharger.. I'll let all of you know how that goes.
Also, have a question and I am stumped!
Where the heck does the remote oil filter plug into????
The remote oil filter has a 1/8" line going to the feed of the filter base (I think that's the center connection) from the main oil galley on the right side of the engine. If you look at the "hump" (the main oil galley) along the side between the front of the engine and the oil pump you will find a plug. Take that out and attach the feed line. There is a 3/16" line that goes from the oil filter base drain-back to the left side of the engine near the oil filler/dipstick tube boss. I forget whether it's between the front of the engine and boss or the back. Should be a plug there. I say plugs in the galley and left side of engine since I assume the engine didn't have the filter originally. You can mount the filter anywhere. Since it's pressurized the drain line doesn't have to be naturally drain back to the engine.
I might be wrong on the exact line sizes, but the smaller line is the feed/larger the drain back. The flare nuts are or course different sizes, so easy to determine location. The plugs in the block are the same size as their corresponding oil lines, of course. Ready made lengths of brake line work just fine.
Your supercharger is mounted where the filter is normally mounted, but I have a suggestion. You can use flexible lines, at least for a short distance, and mount the filter anywhere. I'd run hard lines along the engine to a point on the right side where you would then connect to flexible lines that go to a readily available filter base. The filter that Nash/AMC used is an industrial filter. Its still available at places that service tractor-trailer refers (the only current use I know of), but not on the shelf at local parts stores. If you use the original base on the engine (that's so it can use hard lines -- moves with the engine) order the filters by the case. If you use a readily available remote filter base it will use a readily available filter. It can be mounted on a custom bracket to the engine to use hard lines, but flex lines and mounted on the body might be more convenient.
Sealing the trans should be no problem. If the shifter shaft seals are leaking the trans has to be at least partially disassembled though. Most likely it's just the front and rear seals. Note that without the driveshaft installed the rear seal will leak... but you probably knew that!
Ah. okay. I was pretty sure that the remote filter pluged into those holes, but it is good to confirm.
Yeah when I got the car it did not have the remote filter with it. So I will probably by an aftermarket (maybe Moon) and mount it to the firewall (or maybe to the engine, will have to check where there is space, and where it would look the best too
And about the rear seal... I will admit I did not know that it would leak without the drive shaft, but when I went to intall the tranny in the car almost ALL the fluid drained out the back, it was almost gushing. But I am replacing all the seals anyway. It needs to be done, and right now is the perfect time.
Yes, without the driveshaft yoke in you must keep the transmission from tilting back or ALL the oil can pour out. The rear seal is really the only one I'd change. There is a small front seal, but little oil will leak from it. The only other seals are on the shifting shafts. Manual transmissions just splash oil around inside, nothing is under pressure. The oil level is also below all the seals -- they just get a bit splashed on them when the car is moving. The rear seal has the driveshaft yoke spinning in it, and vibration from the yoke along with dust and dirt and general exposure to the elements can cause that seal to wear. Since the driveshaft must be removed to replace it it's a good idea to do so before installing. The other seals should be fine. Check the oil level after the transmission is in, squirt oil in the hole with a pump bottle or a big basting syringe and tube.
Ahhh I loved your car at the old Pomona car show! I was gawking all over it! One question I have is where did you get the nylon? connectors to attach the supercharger piping? I am getting the pipes bent tomorrow and need to attach them.
Hey dude. This is badass. I love that you're hookin that blower up.
Thanks! I am having a blast with this build. It is refreshing.... and also frustrating doing this project (Still love every minute though!)
Everything needs to be fabricated or thought outside the box to an extent. Plus trying to do it period correct is new for me.
My last project was a slightly OT 66 Chevy C-10 that we use as our push vehicle, and that was a lot of buy and stick on parts with a sbc. So this new project is pretty damn entertaining!
So next week we will get the welds finished up on the intake once it's in the car, and we will have the headers and exhaust built.
Tranny won't be done till tues so this weekend I'll get the brakes done.
as you can see it wasn't the last time the engine would be painted...
Behind the generator.
cool build,engine looks alot better all one color.lookin forward to seeing this little monster gett'in busy...
I was just looking at that engine color... ;> It's looking good though! I'll throw another color at you -- the original engine color was grey.
Water pump is behind the generator as Laz says -- driven by an extension shaft off the back of the generator. The good thing is the water pump is close to the center of the engine and the back cylinders run cooler than most sixes -- more even temps across all six. Bad thing is there's a long hose, and you have to run the original generator. Or do like someone else mentioned -- gut the generator and just use it as a shaft carrier and run an alternator above it or on the other side of the engine. Always a work around!
Grey was the stock color? Huh interesting choice!
My Big Ambassador, a 1950, has the grey block with a red valve cover, and a black oil bath air cleaner. It looks like a stationary motor, or something from a vintage boat.
All red with the aluminum is looking good, IMHO. The two-toning looked too busy.
My plan is to go all black, but still deciding on whether to turbocharge the original six, or using a dressed up 351c that I have kicking around. I have this batwing air cleaner that I'd hate to not use...
Cool project you have there!
Very cool build !!
Might want to think about a rubber (silicon) connector between the outlet tube to the carbs and the blower. Things are gonna shake, rattle and roll a little.
Can't wait to see/hear the video when you fire this baby up !!
Great job !
Thats the plan
If your asking me, keep the original 6
Well went to long beach swap meet today and got the electric fuel pump and regulator.
And also got an old moon tank to put in the trunk it's only 5 gal but it should get me around town!
Got it home and got it buffed it out
cool,going all race car are ya! .........
ha! well when I race it at the Antique Nationals, I was thinking of mounting the moon tank in front of the grill, run no hood, and have 3 zoomie headers poking out!
Working on the brakes....
Let's just say I will be very happy when they are done... I can't stand working on brakes! And these are a PAIN to adjust!
Well I got the engine back in the car, it's all bolted up and ready to go!
Just need to do the little things now and I'll be starting her soon.
Seeing it all together... I may no run a hood for a while
WOW!! that looks great....cant wait to hear and see it running
or rotate it up, use a longer threaded rod and stack two of the filter elements, problem solved.
Separate names with a comma.