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Projects 1950 Styleline coupe kustom build thread.

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Devin, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Sweet! I think am going to borrow that idea. Looks very stout indeed and a great way to save space. Thanks for sharing.
     
    flux capacitor likes this.
  2. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468548858.643429.jpg

    Couple coats of POR15 and the Saddle mount is done! I'm waiting for the Chassis engineering frame mounts to arrive then on to the trans crossmember.
     
    flux capacitor and tomkelly88 like this.
  3. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    It was crazy how much grease and crud can accumulate on things. This bell housing was so gunked up it was crazy. The local speed shop baked and blasted it is now as clean as the day it left the foundry. Painted it up and it's now ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468696798.863619.jpg ready to install for engine mock up. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468696770.927976.jpg
     
    dlandberg and tomkelly88 like this.
  4. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

  5. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

  6. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    With the motor and trans sitting between the rails and the front crank centerline about 1.5" above the rails, the output shaft is also About 1.5" above the rails. I feel the engine is also angled too far back also but it's hard to tell because I can't drop the front suspension down to ride height with the cherry picker underneath. Does anyone think the transmission is too far above the frame rails?
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468782599.317552.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468782636.233466.jpg
     
  7. flux capacitor
    Joined: Sep 18, 2014
    Posts: 659

    flux capacitor
    Member

    This is a time where possibly it'd be really nice to have the 3/8 steel "flat" to lay in between the frame rails on top of the inner lip with a tranny mount in place or just get the bottom of a stock height mount 3/8 above a " straight edge line" placed on the inner lip. If one could keep the steel from flexing "before bracing", at that point you could do the 5 degree tilt thing to the big jimmy. Flux.
     
    Devin likes this.
  8. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I finally figured out how to get the cherry picker out from under the car and drop down to ride height. The engine sits at a 4* angle now but the bottom to the trans mount is about 1.75" from the bottom of the frame rails. I think if i went the flat strap route it would tilt backwards at too great of an angle. I think I'm going to build the crossmember out of 2"x2"x3/16" tubing I have. I just need to find a source for some tubing to allow the exhaust to run through. I'd like the crossmember to be removable and am thinking how to mount it without putting too much stress on the thin wall frame or the mounting bolts themselves. Chassis engineering has a cool crossmember also. gotta think.
     
    bengeltiger and flux capacitor like this.
  9. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Motor mounts done! The engine is angled back slightly too much. I'll adjust this once I have my transmission crossmember sorted out. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the the way this turned out. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469387551.074838.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469387578.922120.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469387616.403558.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469387627.525277.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469387648.068926.jpg
     
  10. When I did my Ford (using a SBC...) I fabbed up an adapter plate to go from the trans mount to the cross member. I made up a few 1/4" flat shims in case the angle was off, turns out it was fine as is. So try to build some adjustment into it. The front mounts look great.
     
    Devin likes this.
  11. Crazyolman
    Joined: May 24, 2014
    Posts: 188

    Crazyolman

    No matter how wide you spread out the mounts to the frame it is still center mounted to the engine and if you use a center mount on the transmission the engine will try to turn over. That is why a previous poster recommended using a bellhousing that has the side mounts. If you don't have room for that you could use a torque arm to the frame. Without something to stabilize it I could see a hard launch followed by some very expensive noises.
     
    41sedanetteowner and telekenfun like this.
  12. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I appreciate the concern. The saddle mounts to each side of the engine block with the bolts oriented on a horizontal axis. I'm a big boy and I did my best to push the engine side to side and the only deflection came from the suspension. It would not budge. That's not to say I'm stronger than the torque of the engine but it's mounted pretty solidly. I do have the bell housing with side mounts And will try to fabricate some bell housing stabilizers if I have room after running the exhaust as a "belt and suspenders" approach. Thanks for looking out.
     
  13. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    My headers arrived from Clifford. After debating between Fentons and Nicsons, I decided that although not as period, these were the most functional and would most likely perform the best. Now for some Jimmy porn!!! ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469503638.002478.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469503658.034125.jpg
     
  14. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    What will you say to him when he finds out the left front wheel comes off the ground when ever he makes a quick start?
     
  15. SLAMIT
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 930

    SLAMIT
    Member

    Holy crap man. that is awesome. I can just see it all dressed in its Sunday best. please tell me with that valve cover going on there you are going to polish that rad intake. Looks so cool and those headers are actually really good looking. I have always gone back and forth on tube headers on inliners and I am now leaning that direction for my own chevy. now hurry up and get more done I need more updates!!!
     
    Devin likes this.
  16. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    The intake is going to be polished for sure. There's a guy on the Hamb rolodex who does really nice polishing work. I'm sending this guy out for sure when the time is right. I hope to build the trans crossmember this weekend.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  17. subscribed you doing a awesome job you got my attention
     
  18. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Thank you!!
     
  19. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    SEMI SWEET PICTURES Sept 27 2003 011.jpg
    Devin, Since you are building a street engine, you need to weld a half pipe of aluminum to the underside of the intake manifold, plug and tap the ends for a heater loop. If you were using Fenton exhaust manifolds, you could have plumbed exhaust to the underside of the McGurk. Truly, Engine coolant is by far a better way to go. By welding a pipe the entire length of the manifold you will be assured of balanced heating and keeping gas vapor in suspension into all ports. Cut a 2"x 3/16 wall aluminum pipe in half and bend and shaped to the manifolds underside. Once finished and polished, the mod will be nearly unnoticeable to all but the most observant when installed. Study the attached photo of the Ellis manifold. You will notice considerably better drivability with manifold heat.
    Best regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2016
    kiwijeff and Devin like this.
  20. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Hey Telefunkn,

    Thank you for the advice. Your engine bay is beautiful! I hope mine looks that nice when the time comes around.
     
  21. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    So I built my frame mounts for the engine and the engine and transmission as they sat a little high and would have required an excessively high transmission output shaft angle. I started another thread to get some advice: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...mounting-height-in-relation-to-frame.1027600/

    I wound up building a new set of mounts which really helped out. I think the transmission is still a bit high, but since My floor is nonexistent, I'll just modify it as I build a new one anyways. I'm pretty sure it's not way out of whack, most likely a little tight. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470797859.529833.jpg
     
  22. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I'm waiting for some supplies to build a transmission crossmember. The one I bought will have too much drop. I decided to build a simple bracket to mount the clutch slave cylinder. I'm going to use a Jeep slave. I have one on my roadster, it's easily available and works great. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470798192.600403.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470798280.015242.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470798291.854318.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470798306.819083.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470798317.883968.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470798330.706978.jpg

    I may have to resort to a pull type slave if this one winds up being too close to the exhaust. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
     
  23. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    So the engine and transmission are officially mounted now and I began fabricating the front half of the exhaust. The headers from Clifford run really close to the oil pan rail. I'm a bit disappointed. I cocked the collector to the left and have about 3/16" clearance may need to dimple the tube a little. I will also definitely need heat shields to protect the clutch slave cylinder. It's frickin' tight down here![​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  24. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Inching forward. Got the X-pipe fitted and some Porter mufflers on the way. [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  25. Everything looks real nice, carry on!
     
    Ratatouille likes this.
  26. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Ratatouille likes this.
  27. SLAMIT
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 930

    SLAMIT
    Member

    Yes! Love this build...
     
    Devin likes this.
  28. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

  29. VNTGE41
    Joined: Mar 4, 2007
    Posts: 737

    VNTGE41
    Member
    from l.a.

    Subscribed! Awesome work man!
     
  30. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    It's been about a month since I've been able to get to work on this car. This morning I finished fitting and tacking in the exhaust tubing up to the rear axle. It's not perfect but I'm pretty happy overall with how it has come out. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    tomkelly88 likes this.

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