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Projects 1950 Chopped Chevy Sedan Delivery

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by RMONTY, Jan 15, 2016.

  1. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Been working on the right pedal over the past few days and it has taken some time to figure it out, but I am almost there. I searched for all kinds of photos of what others have done and took some ideas from several of the fixes, and have put this together. It isn't completed yet, but everything seems to be working, no binding or excessive resistance with what I have cobbled together.

    I removed the large spring from both carburetors and had to put a return spring on the vertical rod for the accelerator pedal. I am using 1/4" rod and 1/4" collars to hold everything in place. Will probably drill and cotter pin everything as well. The pedal is working like it is supposed to at the moment.

    My last task is to figure out how to attach the vertical rod to the arm that operates both carbs. I think this will require some small TIG welding or threading the 1/4" vertical rod. The vertical rod needs to be adjusted with a bend to run straight up and down just past the return spring. I want to build in some sort of fine tuning, and I don't think that will be a big issue.

    The tywraps and hose clamp are not permanent btw...just holding things in place for mock-up. That will all be welded.

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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2023
  2. Love the return spring idea...very clever! I can't tell you how many times I had mine together and apart trying to get it all worked out. Looks like you about got it nailed down.
     
    RMONTY and guthriesmith like this.
  3. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I still have some adjusting that needs to be done to reduce the amount of drag on the rods. I think it is going to work out ok though!
     
    drdave and guthriesmith like this.
  4. You just keep plugging along don’t you!
     
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  5. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Trying to get this old car driving down the road, or at least a couple of laps around the pasture....
     
  6. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I did a bunch of little things today. All had to be done at some point. I got the throttle linkage all squared away. It turned out pretty sweet! I guess it's kind of tractor looking but it works! I took everything apart for final welding and paint. I even gave the pedals a good wire brushing and made them shiny black.


    20230415_204912.jpg

    Got new rubber pads for them as well as new clutch and brake pedal return springs.
    I'm going to need a gas tank at some point so I grabbed the tank I ordered a while back and some new straps that I have no idea where they came from! Anyway started fitting the tank and spare tire well.


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    chryslerfan55, drdave, brEad and 7 others like this.
  7. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I also cut the tunnel cover for the stick shift. That turned out good! All these little things have to be done....lots of them! 20230415_175130.jpg 20230415_204236.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55, Gotgas, drdave and 9 others like this.
  8. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I'll drag it out into the sunshine tomorrow and take care of alot of that rust on the floor supports.
     
  9. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    A few shots of my linkage. It works really well.
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  10. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Sunday was a long day. Trevor and I decided to take care of the rear axle. We made sure everything was in place and that the pinion angle was close, and we tacked the spring perches onto the axle tubes. We raised the back of the car up and dropped the rear end out and cleaned the rust off, and welded the perches on. I bought some oven cleaner and some gloss black implement paint and I cleaned the axle up good and gave it a coat of paint. I need to clean up the hardware and make it decent as well. All those little things....

    rear3.jpg rear4.jpg rear5.jpg rear6.jpg rear3.jpg rear4.jpg rear5.jpg rear6.jpg
     
  11. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

  12. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 1,040

    patsurf

    RMONTY likes this.
  13. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Got the rear end put back under the car and pushed it out into the driveway. Threw the front clip on it and started surveying what is needed to drive this thing around the pasture SOON!

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  14. Looking good Robin! :cool:
     
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  15. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Thanks Jeff! It wont quite be ready for the 500, but it's possible I could drive it up for Lead Ain't Dead. It wont be ready to enter in any shows for a while but at least I will be driving it soon......hopefully!
     
  16. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I'm going to need a battery to start this thing. The front clip that I sat on there is complete, just has a lot of surface rust and the battery tray was of course in poor shape. I broke all the bolts loose and got down to the fresh air duct below the battery box and it too had been eaten up by battery acid over the years. No problem! Pretty easy little fab project for this morning. I need to get see if my woodworking buddy can make a hammer form for the actual battery tray. I might just be a gold chainer on that and buy one, there are several out there and at a good price. It's all the little things......I think I might have said that before!
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    chryslerfan55, drdave, brEad and 2 others like this.
  17. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

  18. Looking good!
     
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  19. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    We got the fuel tank installed this weekend and the fuel line ran from the tank to the fuel pump. Need to pick up a few clamps and a 2" hose I ordered at O, O, O, O Reilly's for the filler neck on the tank. One step closer to driving it around the pasture! I can't wait to see this thing move under its own power!

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    Last edited: May 1, 2023
  20. Looking good man! Your carb linkage came out nice. Love the little bracket and return spring set up....nice job! I'd say get your tail out there and get it all running and to the SK this weekend, but I'm struggling just to get the time to finish a bit of wiring on the A to have it ready to go, so I better not throw rocks. LOL
     
  21. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Well like it or not, I am going to have some time to work on the car, but not the way I wanted. I was informed that as of 10 am this morning, the company I WAS working for is out of business, and I no longer am employed. So the job search is on again! I'll see you this weekend at the SK though! Trip already paid for.....
     
    chryslerfan55, Peanut 1959 and brEad like this.
  22. Oh man!!! That sucks rocks! My dad went through a season of the same sort of deal. Was "mid-management shuffled" out the company he worked for 30 years in his late 50's. Was too old to hire and young to retire and went through a series of company closings and layoffs before he finally landed the job he retired from after working for them for 10 years. I hope your next "landing" is the last one you have to worry about and will last until you are ready to hang it up.
     
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  23. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Mike and Frank Millsap are the best. I meet Mike when he was at Uncle Daniels along with Glen Reese. I can't say enough good things about Sachse Rod Shop. The people that I have recommended them to feel the same way. They have never failed me. Frank
     
  24. Lone Star Mopar
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 3,854

    Lone Star Mopar
    Member

    Uncle Daniel is my next door neighbor. Great guy, & always willing to lend a hand and answer my stupid questuons.
     
  25. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Been doing some mockup for the Vintage Air. I am thinking about cutting into the side of the inner fender a few inches to get the battery where I want it. I got the bracketry to place the a/c compressor on the passenger side to try to balance out the engine compartment. I gotta get this battery mounted so I can drive this thing!
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    drdave, brEad, Hombre and 8 others like this.
  26. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    It looks like I am going to have to move the radiator forward a bit if I am going to run a mechanical fan. The fan blade that @302GMC sent me way back when wont fit the new water pump I had to get for the deep double grove pulley needed for the Vintage Air setup. The old pump was one of the "shortened" pumps sold for the purpose of transplanting the 235 into a 49-54 Chevy car. The bracketry for the A/C actually came from Davis Speed Equipment. I didn't know it at the time that I purchased it, but the bracketry that Vintage Air sells for the 235 engine comes from Davis Speed Equipment as well. It is a really nice setup, all TIG welded and comes with the double grooved pulley for the water pump, a new double grooved crank pulley (I dont think it is a harmonic balancer?), both the A/C compressor and alternator brackets, and both belts that are needed. I may end up having to run an electric fan on this one, but that wont bother me much really.


    The water pump I ordered from Rock Auto is for the engine, which according to the numbers on the block, came from a 1960 C-10 pickup truck. I'm sure it's probably made overseas, and the casting is a little off. The pump is needing a little bit of grinding at the bottom where it goes up against the timing cover. The pump wouldn't rotate enough in the impeller hole for the 4 bolt holes to line up. I have been using a rotary file to take a little off at a time and almost have all bolt holes where they line up, but the flange at the bottom is starting to get a little thin. There isn't a lot of meat there for the gasket to seal up. I may need to take a small rat tail file and elongate the bolt holes just a skosh to keep the flange wide enough for the gasket to seal.

    20230603_090735.jpg 20230603_091102.jpg 20230603_091207.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2023
    Jrs50, drdave, brEad and 4 others like this.
  27. I don't think I would do that. Look at an Odyssey PC925. It's all the battery you need and a 3rd the size. You can mount them on their side if you want. The posts come either side and have an incredible life if cared for properly. The one in my avatar is 12 years old and doing well, I have them in several cars. I put them in many customers cars and as of yet no complaints. Heck, I even have them in my Lawn mowers as well as my JD tractor. Shelf life as long as you don't have any parasitic draw is up to 3 years.
     
  28. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member


    Thanks for the tip Mike! I will check the measurements and see how they compare to the area I have on top of that air duct/battery box that I recreated. The price isn't too bad on the battery, pretty much any battery you buy these days that has more than a 1 yr warranty costs 2 Ben Franklins. Looks like the specss are pretty good on that battery as well!


    [​IMG]
     
  29. You won't be disappointed if you choose to go this route. Just be sure to get a Battery tender made for AGM Batt's.
     
    SS327 and RMONTY like this.
  30. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Here is another option for your battery. 857FD800-21E2-457D-BEF1-31976358595A.jpeg
     

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