Projects 1950 3100 Truck Project

looking good!!
FYI (and I'm just saying it in-case you didn't know), the speedo was on the right and the other gauges on the left from factory. (Not that it really matters, and I don't care either way... your truck not mine!)

Can't wait to see this plate you're making for the indicator lights!

 

Yea i know...I tried them both ways...not sure what i am doing yet...hopefully today or tomorrow..

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I think it looks fine either way! And with electronic gauges there really isn't any limitations! Mechanical, you can only go where the temp and oil tubes let you!

 

Made some progress....gauges in and grounded but still having issues, them temp gauge is pointing backwards and the gas gauge goes to full when key turned on. I tried to use the sender that came with the tank since it was already
installed instead of the one that came with the gauges, so I am sure that is what the problem is.

I made the panel for the dash lights but still need to work on it a bit, for now I just installed the lights, its not as bad as I made it out to be...

I drove about 60 miles to buy some barnwood to use for the bed. It is going to look cool as hell. I will soak it all with linseed oil when done. No strips, just bolted to the front and rear sills, and both center cross supports. Everybody is giving me shit saying its going to warp, but I am not going to worry about it, seems to me if its bolted at 4 diffent spots it cant warp much, not to mention I dont plan on leaving it outside anyway.



It looks a lot better with the oil on it and I am putting it with the rough cut side up, not the side the picture has up. I have two boards installed so far, very tedious...

Got a new w/s gasket from Steele Rubber and am going to try and install it and the rear window myself, cant count on anybody else apparently. Then its install seatbelts, reinstall seat, drive to exhaust shop and call it done for now....pheww....

 

Why no strips? I think it would look awesome with them. Without them, there will be gaps between the boards, allowing things to fall through/get caught, road grime to come up....something to consider.

 

Something different, thats all. Initially I was going to rip them all 1/4 inch or so on either side and join them together like a table top. But that would be a ton more work and not allow any movement and then splitting/warping might occur sooner. So I am going to lay them out just how they are for a more "rustic" look if that makes sense. I dont know, I may end up doing something different one day...thats whats cool about it is I can change it around if it doesnt work...

BTW, they are just sitting in the bed in that pic, I am doing them from the outsides in and trying to get them to butt up a close as possible before bolting them down...

 

My buddy did his wood without strips... it still looks great! You just cant beat an old wood bed! I did strips with mine and think it'll look great, but I have no preference... both are great looking!

As far as the gas gauge, did you ground the sender?, what about the gauge itself? If the gauge housing is painted inside, the gauge can't ground to the housing (which I believe is what it's supposed to do), so if there's paint, remove it around where the gas gauge is and see if that works. My gauge is fried and just stays on E

 

Boiled linseed oil is not water proof and will offer very little protection. It's better than nothing but that's about it.
I suggest a Spar Varnish if you want a traditional wood finish that is somewhat weather resistant.

Polyurethane is option also but it does not have that look like the old type Varnishes.

 

Thanks...and the gauge is electronic and sealed inside the housing with one ground wire for everything. I do need to reground everything though, that may be it...

Good to know. I wanted something I could apply over the rough wood without changing the look of it too much. I was not aware however that it was not at all water resistant. I actually looked at the stuff you posted up earlier but ended up buying the linseed oil on a whim during one of my home depot trips and that was that....

I wonder if the varnish can be applied over the oil? I have already done a few boards.....

 

I would let the BLO dry in the sun for at least a few days then the Varnish should do fine.

Be careful with the BLO as cloths saturated with it and wadded up in a confined area like a garbage can, "will", not "might" catch a fire due to spontaneous combustion..

 

Nice...brushing it on so no worries...that would not be good...thanks...

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

...you mite like Thompson's water seal, really protects and dries clear and flat.

 

Aha! I forgot you switched gauges ( I was speaking of the stock gauges... sorry!). But yea, make sure everything is grounded properly and clean. Also, what fuel sender are you using? Is it one that came with the gauges? The Ohms rating might be different for the gauge vs sender if you ordered separately? Is the sender unit grounded?

Just trying to offer any help I can... things to check!

 

Back window is in....bed is done...windshield is in....broke one side...dont care...gauges and indicators in....need to install seat belts and seat..go get exhaust...then hit the road...

 

Looking good, sorry about the glass...Jim

 

BTW, thanks F-ONE, I ended up using MinWax Helmsman spar urathane on the bed wood. Couldnt find the spar varnish...Looks better than I expected and still has that old look to it. I am also going to spray the bottom with the same leakseal stuff I have used everywhere else just for extra protection.

 

Great...
You will likely need to touch it up once a year or so....depending on use.

 

Nice to see it all coming together. I shouldn't be long now!

 

Truck is looking good! Cant wait to see the end result.

 

Truck is turning out great!! I also used the Helmsmans spar urethane. How many coats did you do? I think I did 3-4 in the matte finish... turned out great! I love the old rustic look of your planks!

 

Thanks,.did three coats....hopefully get some time this weekend...so close..


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

So I decided to do things right and ordered another windshield glass for the pass side. Got one from a different vendor hoping it would fit better. I laid it on the broken one and it was slightly smaller all the way around and fit perfect. I talked with the glass guy that comes to our shop and he gave me a couple glass grinding discs to grind down the drivers side one to fit.

I ground on it for a bit, compared it to the broken one and it looked like I made some progress and so I went to test it out. Ended up breaking it pulling it in too tight. I cant tell you how pissed I was. It took
all I had to place yet another order for glass. I am just about ready to let this thing go to the "sitting and rotting" thread.

 

Should have taken your one good side (the one you ordered and compared) to your glass guy! He prolly coulda cut it cheaper than buying and shipping yet another obe

 

Lots of things i could have done besides break it....oh well...

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

What vender provided the glass that fit? Truck is looking good.

 

LMC and it was a perfect fit. Who knows though, maybe its my truck. If the second one fits too then LMC is the way to go. The first ones were from Classic Parts...

 

That's good to know! Let us know how the second one turns out!

 

Bummer about the glass. I've been thinking I want to replace mine before the winter sets in. Not because the glass is broken, but the rubber is so cracked and brittle it leaks like a sieve. My glass is pretty fogged around the edges so I'll just do the glass at the same time. I'm going to cost having it cut at a local business here and compare to the LMC price. If more expensive I'll just go with LMC.
Good luck with the next one!

 

Don't forget to add shipping in with the cost of the LMC glass!
That's the one good thing about you 47-53 guys... You have flat glass in the front... Versus the $150+ curved glass of us 54-55.1 guys

 

WINDSHIELD IN FOR GOOD!

So the second glass from LMC was exactly the same as the first, and obviously fit, however I could not get it to go in the way they say to install the glass. Normally you put the glass/rubber/trim together (which I did) and set it centered with the lower part of the assembly over the lower lip, then rope it around to pull it all in the rest of the way around. No matter how much juicy juice I used I could not get it to seat in the top and the trim kept popping out, which would allow the rubber to come off the glass.....

So I took it back out, reassembled it and then slid the driver side in starting at the center divider. since the w/s is tapered slightly I was able to get it in the slots in top and bottom at the same time, slid it over and got it mostly seated on the pillar side. Lots of suction cup positioning and rope work and got the drivers side done pretty easily. Now I got inside on the pass side and with the suction cups set the top of the w/s in place and pulled up and in while working the rope and eventually got the bottom lip up and over. Lastly, the pass pillar side was some work, used the suction cups and lots of lube to attempt to slide the glass within the rubber as far to the center as possible while pushing down and reached inside and yanked the rope and PLOOP it fell into place...

The trim had come out a little at the bottom but with some plastic ply bars and lube I got it back in and TADOW!! Man I am pumped.....nothing like getting something done that has been kicking your ass....I should mention I did this all by my lonesome, if I had a helper it would have been and HELL of a lot easier, so that is definitely my advice if possible.

Next up is seat belts, reinstall seat, take for exhaust and align and start driving the bitch, woo hoo!!!!!



Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!