As i've stated in previous threads, this is really my first effort at complete paint and body (take to metal, body work, paint.) Being that, i assumed i couldn't get the body perfect via my first time around, I was planning on going suede finish by using base coat only-- i like that look for this project. Knowing how bad the body was, im actually pretty happy with the results of my body work. Ive now got my base coat applied and here's how it currently looks: QUESTION: I've got a couple dry spots. With my plan of leaving this truck in base coat, how can i get rid of them? I know that if i was going clear, i'd wet sand everything nicely and do my clear. Being that im not going clear, im afraid that if i wetsand, i'll leave scratches (I tested an area behind cab and actually like the finish it gives, but i dont like the scratches.) What do you guys who actually know what you're doing recommend? I love the suede finish. That said, being that my body is pretty straight-- should i just lay down some clear? Also-- while i was between coats, i tried to fix the dry spots. Are these caused by overspray or my lack of gun control experience? I've got 80% / driver work truck expectations of my first paint efforts. That said, i wanna be way better next time around. Thanks for any help or advise provided. BTW: Yes, im pissed off at myself that my masking sprayed off and i got paint on my whitewall.... -scott noteboom
if its a true base clear base coat you wouldnt sand it before clearing either.. Thats a no no.. Id have thinned the paint about 75/25 75 being thinner and sprayed a mist coat over it to try and melt in the dry spots.. other than that id say run it .. looks good to me. Dave
next step after paint is to give a nice hot rod lowered rake. 4" drop axle w/ reversed eye springs & split bones on the front, and im going to raise the spring mount on the rear. will also likely change the color of the rims to shiny black (looking a bit to Xmas i think) and may put on solid black bias ply tires. also going to put a couple era correct speed parts i have on it (2x2 intake / heads-- its got a later 40's 59AB motor in it.) the look im going for is 1948-51. While this is my wifes truck, it's also going to be the push vehicle for my future "Famous in Peace, Distinguished in Battle" flathead Caddy powered roadster project. thus, work truck with a little hot rodding on it. The color is Lochaven Green-- a stock 1940 Ford color. -scott noteboom
Hey, Are the "dry spots" all in one area, and on one panel? If so, can you just panel paint that panel, after you resand the panel? As it stands right now, you will have to resand the entire base coat, as the time to shoot the clear coat has elapsed! The window of time to shoot the clear coat over the base coat is a number of hours, and not days/months. If you just shot clear over the dried base at this time, the clear would hold for a short time before it would fail. The base coat, without the clear coat will not be a very long lived finish. Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
The dry spots or from overspray and probably a wrong air and fluid mixture in your gun. You are not supposed to sand the base b4 you clear. They do sell a flat'n agent for clear. You mix it in and it gives a nice satin look. Im not sure of the company that makes it but if you go to your local paint store(automotive)not house or hardware, they should be able to guide you in the right direction. If they know nothing about it, then they shouldn't be working there. Johnny.
looks pretty good for a first timer! should've did the dry spray repair before you unmasked it, but being a solid color you can panel paint it over . just wet sand the dry areas and respray the entire panel, just over reduce the paint by 10 - 20% on the last coat and it should be fine.
thanks guys. 1. i do know that base coats only dont last long. im ok with that, as it'll be stored inside and i'll be chopping the top next year anyway. -- and if i did clear, i'd wet sand and do one more base coat as i know my time has elapsed. 2. yeah.... i can remask and panel it-- as the dry spots are really only in a couple spots. -scott noteboom
if you used decent paint the base will last along time with no clear,just be careful around solvents. if you plan on using some spray wax on top ive used the gray scotchbrite to smooth some rough spots then throw the wax on. i use spray wax, nice and thin.
I don't have any pictures of it, but I've sanded base down with 1000grit wet and buffed it. You probably don't want to use a good pad (it'll turn into the base color right quick) but it takes care of the dry spot, leaves zero scratches, and looks pretty cool (imho). Slim
have a picture of how this ended up looking? on my test spot (between bed / cab,) i wet sanded and i actually like how the finish looks-- even without buffing it.... -scott noteboom
Sorry Scott, I don't have any pictures. It was just an old helmet I was practicing some paint techniques on. I've seen some guys do something similar to get a patina look. Obviously you'll sand through the base in order to achieve that, then buff to get a barn fresh feel I guess. I really dig how the truck looks. If you're only going to rock it like that for a year, why stress over some dry spots? I'd say drive it. Slim
you could try a single stage paint have them mix it to have a satin finish and then mix in some D.O.I wet look acrylic enamel hardener to give it a little more of a true satin look......and also use a shop-line slow reduser. no clear coat needed
Have your paint mixed in single stage then add flatening againt till you get the look you want. I have used dupont before and it worked great. Good luck the truck looks great
yea i painted a couple of rides using PPG and it turns out the perfect satin....look but be sure to use the wet look acrylic hardner...good luck
Hey scott I don't know much about paint but I like that color/look alot! Its really come a long way. TP
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