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Technical 1939 Mercury Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by swissmike, Jun 28, 2015.

  1. Mike, The Devil is in the details
    So hard NOT to address these issues while they are in your face. Good job my friend
    The Prez
     
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  2. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,267

    swissmike
    Member

    Frame repair where the constant cyclic load of the knee lever shocks lead to cracks in the frame.

    [​IMG]

    Cutting out both layers, but making sure cuts are staggered.

    [​IMG]

    Welding in new metal and spraying some weld through primer before closing up.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I added a 5/16” carriage bolt to pull the two layers together. I will run tube shocks instead of the Houdaille shocks.

    [​IMG]

    Same was done on the other side. I also Por15’d between the two layers where I separated the frame from x-member.

    Last job for today was welding in the plate with the wishbone mount.
    [​IMG]


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  3. Lines
    Joined: Jun 11, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Lines
    Member
    from Germany

    Nice building. Keep on building and posting!
     
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  4. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 124

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Very impressive the way you work that metal. Love that Cadillac engine. That car has always been my dream car.
     
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  5. CadMad
    Joined: Oct 20, 2012
    Posts: 451

    CadMad
    Member

    Good to see that you are still on it Mike. There is always a satisfaction in doing work for your harshest critic, yourself! Inspiration for me to get back on my 39. (Been sidetracked sorting out all the shit that life sometimes throws at you. )
     
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  6. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,267

    swissmike
    Member

    Finally got around to working on the Merc. First order of business was to lay out the crossmember geometry to determine where and how much to cut. I made a cardboard template and transcribed it on a piece of plywood.
    [​IMG]
    Everybody who has ever cut a baseboard knows that the cut has to be at half the angle in order to make the pieces line up. The crossmember has some weird angles so this is not an exact science.
    I am shooting for 5” in addition of the spacer I already removed.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I made an attempt to bend it in place, but that was not going to happen because I welded in a cross brace to make sure the frame width does not change.
    Bending in place would have required the rails to move out somewhat even if the final dimension on paper indicated there was little change in finished width.

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, the crossmember has to come out which made the welding and grinding easier.
    [​IMG]



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  7. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,267

    swissmike
    Member

    I made templates at the bottom, top and rear view to trim the crossmember to fit. I had to trim almost 1/4” in the front and on top, so bending in place would have never worked. Lesson learned.

    [​IMG]

    I cleaned and beveled the outside edges almost to full thickness to get good weld penetration. After the outside was welded I flipped the frame to weld from the inside as well.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Still need to make small filler pieces where the bottom lip does not line up, and grind the welds.



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  8. Black Clover Custom
    Joined: Dec 20, 2014
    Posts: 496

    Black Clover Custom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My car was done in the 60's the easy way with a straight tube across but if i did it today it would be just like yours! Great job. Looks nice.
     
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