Ok, I have this beautiful, almost original 38 I am working on, I have re wired most of the truck, now I am down to the headlight switch. The original switch mounted at the end of the column seems to be OK, (ohm it out tonight) my question is, are these switches good quality overall? are there any common problems to look out for? I do not see many people use them for one reason or another. On a side note, anyone ever convert the switch to a turn signal switch? Mount a simple 2 way toggle under the dash for the headlights and and use the horn mounted switch for turn signals? Last but not least, does anyone have a wiring diagram for this switch? Thanks for any help! Dan Beyer
I did exactly what you are talking about. I changed the switch into a turn signal switch. I had to use diodes and a couple doublle throw double pull relays to cancel out the brake light and make it blink. I created a wiring diagram that I will send you as a .PDF
Just remember Fords are always wired through the headlight switch. Problem is , too much amperage will burn those things to the ground . If it's a stock job, you're probably good to go . If it's a modernized ride, I would use a separate switch for parking lamps and accessories . scrubba
There is a pic of the wiring diagram in my albums. I can't figure out how to attach to a pm. I can send it to anyone who would like a clear large copy to their email. my headlights go through a 1965 ford truck dash switch. the origional bulb switch was made for 6v headlights and can more than handle 12v blinkers.
The main reason the factory switches aren't used is the horn button and rod assembly that operates the switch at the base of the steering box. When the horn button stops working and the owner or mechanic don't know how to remove it they often bend it. Try and find a new or unbent old 33-39 horn button and switch rod. Yes, the 33-34s and 35-36s have been reproduced before but not the 37-38-39s.
The original contacts and plastic plate are higher quality than repros, so cleanemup and unsolder the wires, use with your new wires. The control rod and hookup to contact switch need to be straight and carefully assembled so turning the steering wheel doesn't move the switch.
Thank you Bruce, pasadenahotrod, and Kelsey Fleck, your input is greatly appreciated. I received the schematic on how to do what I want to do from Kelsey, that will save me hours of headaches THANK YOU. The rod seems to be straight, and everything "felt" good before I took off the end cap, I will clean and inspect everything before putting new wiring to the terminals, and make sure all is good. Dan Beyer
You may also have to carefully unbend tabs and such to get the horn wire out of the tube and rebuild that stuff IF there's a problem...simple but fiddly and delicate work. Didn't '37 and '38 have a single headlight contact that ran through a floor switch for high and low, rather than the total control from main switch used in '32?? Don't quite remember a lot of stuff about these late model Fords... There's one "secret" part that is useful in keeping rod free and not swinging with the wheel, a little and very crude bushing at the top where rod goes into steering shaft. Just a kind of shim stock thing that looks like a guy with plliers improvised it on the assembly line...if you are not looking for it, it will just drop out on the floor. It looks like a little fedora with the top ripped out and one side open...
Ran across your post on converting steering headlight switch to turn signal switch. Can you send me a copy of the schematic?
I would be very interested in obtaining a copy of the wiring diagram to turn the column headlight switch into a turn signal switch for use on my 1938 Ford truck. Is it possible to get a copy of this wiring diagram?
Post 11 above is @kfleck wiring diagram from his album. Here is a link to that same diagram in his album. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/truck-wiring.331970/
Would it be possible to get a copy of the wiring pdf to convert steering switch into a turn signal switch for my 38 ford?
We are very close to each other. I live in Trenton and have a 1937 Buick with all electronic t/s which would be much more simple to install using the 38 switch rod. PM me if interested.
The Jalopy Journal
