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Technical 1938 ford coupe fuel tank

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marlar, Oct 14, 2019.

  1. Marlar
    Joined: Jul 9, 2019
    Posts: 9

    Marlar

    Anyone know if the fuel tank can be removed from a 38 coupe standard with the body on? It sets on top of the frame rails and bolts from the bottom up through the frame in to the tank. Have not attempted yet, just wanted to know what to plan for. Thanks
     
  2. Dak Rat
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 352

    Dak Rat
    Member

    Yes, can be done. Its a tight fit and takes some effort. In some cases you may have to loosen up the rear body mount bolts to gain a little clearance.
     
  3. its really not hard. you don't need to take off or loosen any body mounts. remove the filler neck in the fender completely, and the rubber hose that connects the two. remove all the mounting bolts, and shift it completely the driver side of the car. you should be able to just barely clear the passenger side frame rail, and you can drop it down and get the filler neck stub out of the wheel well and past the frame. Did this on my 39 Standard just his summer.

    Now if yours for some reason has a 37 type tank in it, that filler neck actually screws into the tank. I wouldn't even try to unscrew it. just cut it off with a hack saw right up next to the body and use a hose and clamp to put it back together if your not replacing the tank. The tanks can interchange from all 37 to 40 ford cars.
     
  4. If it's never been removed before, there will be castle nuts with cotter pins above the frame The pins can be sheared off, if very careful, to make the job a bit easier. If the frame has never been hit in that area, the tank should slide out. You will need to take off the fuel filler tube and rubber connection first. Also the fuel line at the front center, bottom of the tank. Also, drain the tank using the plug on the tank bottom. I used a Drake stainless steel tank on mine to replace the steel tank, and keep it rust free from E-10 crappy gas........fairly quick and easy job.
     
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  5. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 5,648

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    No problem removing my old tank on my 38.. Don't remember removing any castle nuts with cotter keys just lock washers on my 32,000 mile barn find....
     
  6. My 39 had castle nuts and springs on one side and lock nuts on the other side. I guess for for frame flex. Mine was a 60,000 mile shed find and it had never been apart either.
     
  7. Marlar
    Joined: Jul 9, 2019
    Posts: 9

    Marlar

    Thanks so much for all the info. Also this car has what appears to be new vintage brand gauges. I tried calling them to see which sender I should install in the new tank, but never got an answer. From my research the original is not going to work except with factory gauge. Thinking of just getting a universal sender.
     
  8. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 5,648

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Sender ohms are all different and must match the gauge ohms to work correctly...
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  9. The original ford gauges and sending units used a bi-metal strip in the gauge and sender to move the needle. I know they are not supposed to work, but I used a sender from Tanks to put in my new fuel tank and hooked it up to the original gauge, and it works just fine. I used the one they listed for early Ford and Mopar at 73 - 10 ohms. It is pretty darn accurate too. It is pretty much a universal sending unit, so it needed a little adjustment. I would recommend one of their sending units if your tank has the normal new 5 bolt pattern in it. you can see in the picture below, its almost full...that don't last long though!

    20191006_112755.jpg
     
    scrap metal 48 likes this.

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