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Hot Rods 1937 Chevrolet Master

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pappa Wolf, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    This is my pet project, A smallblock 305, that will be turned into a woodgas burning engine.
    It's a 50$ block, but filled with new bearings, cam, pistonrings and other brand new parts.
    So the cost is low.

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    Back to the exhaust.

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    Thinking about doing something about the oil return.

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    Changing the freezeplugs instead.

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    Grinding the welds down.

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  2. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

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    A level-block, that an old mechanic gave me, it is 99% straight on the one side, and these were used during the war, for grinding the mounting surface on larger egines, in Denmark (thats where he found it!)

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    It weighs 4-5 kilos and is heavy to work with, but i'm not complaining about the job it does.

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    When I got tired of grinding, I worked on the exhaust.

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    But i'm pleased.

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    And hi temp paint works nicely

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  3. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Modifying an old floorshifter from an 87 buick.

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    Repurposing an old defect torch

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    The best part of all of this, is that it was all free.
     
  4. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

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    There's a lot of text, that you guys don't see, since I have to translate every single word into English, and then write it all grammatically correct, witch is not my strong side! hehehe

    So i'm just throwing pictures at you. But if you have any questions, just ask, and I will answer, to the best of my abilities!!
     
  5. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Radiator for the teststand.

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    It's all just steel.

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    This radiator might be a bit to small, but it was the largest one I had in storage, so I'm hoping that it will be big enough to cool my 305 during brake-in.

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    A lot of rust here is mocking me.

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    And my new tail pan arrrived.

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    And the front part of a hood hinge!

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    The tail pan fits nicely.

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    No the yellow line is just a guide.

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    More exhaust

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    And decided to check the radiator for leaks

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    filled it with water.

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    and waited

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    the outlet got a little wd40 and now it opens easily

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    And look, a droplet!! It's leaking.

    So I went further on with the rust repairs

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    Not easy to get out.

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    drilled out the spot welds

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    Took 40 minutes to get out.

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    It needs blasting.

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    Some welding and fabrication is required.

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    Got all the water out of the radiator..

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  6. What a great build. I like the way you handle this.
     
    Pappa Wolf likes this.
  7. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Thank you.

    It's sunday again, and I'm having my morning coffee, and thought that you guys would like to see more.


    My birthday was in june, but the presents started showing up in the beginning of july. It takes time to get stuff from the US, but the customs in Norway take even longer. but they got here eventually.

    Fuel pump.

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    Water pump.

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    Deluxe hardware kit for the brakes

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    Didn't take long before I started having fun.

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    New wheel cylinders for the rear brakes.

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    This was a surprise from a friend in Cali.

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    Got a new flexplate, since none of those that i have, will fit a 1 pc rear main seal.

    And I marked every bolt as it got torqued to spec.

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    This is the new cradle.

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    A set of plugs was found

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    And a storage box full of GM and Ford starters


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    And I cant remember if that is for a 168T or 153T flexplate.

    More fun.

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    I like this look on the engine

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    Let's fix the brakes.

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    First problem, new wheel cylinder, backing plate leaves very little room for the retainer.

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    But by using a crowbar, my knee and a piece of pipe in the same diameter, I could knock the retainer in place.

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    Brakeline.

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    And then I realized, that I'm missing handbrake lever, and adjuster. Dang it.

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    Well, I'll just paint the drums then.

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    Did the same on the other side of axle.

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    My camera does not like close ups.

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    I blew through the brake lines with compressed air, after flaring and cutting. just to get debris and dirt out of the pipes. no need to screw up the new brakes with dirt and sh!t.

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    I like this.

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  8. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Worked on the starter, had one that was working from a buick, but the nose was facing the wrong way, so I tore it down and rebuilt it with a new nose piece.

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    As you can see, the solenoid is facing the wrong way.

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    and I tested of course.

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    Of with the solenoid.

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    And other parts.

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    Right, I blew it to pieces.

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    Have lost a few of these.

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    But mounting everything in the other nose piece was relatively easy.

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    The plan was to just bolt it on the engine, but!

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    A bit worn, let's flip it.

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    Out on the anvil

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    Zinkprimer.

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    Rimpaint

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    And while I wait for the paint to dry, I painted the aluminium housing with clear coat for bare metal.

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    Had a snack and a cup of coffee, while I waited.

    Remember the upside down engine block on my engine stand? I bolted the nose piece on to that engne, while I was working on the starter, in order not to scratch the new paint.

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    And got started with putting the starter back together again.

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    All bearings got new moly lube

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    It is a bit easier the work, when you have both hands free.

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    But it is starting to look like a starter again

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    Lets get it on the engine again.

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  9. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    It has been a while since my last update, due to work, and little spare time. But I have done some work now and then. so let me show you.

    I didn't like the starte support bracket, so I found something in the boat department.

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    A few minutes later it looked like this.

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    Cut this in three pieces

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    The center piece went into the bin.

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    And the welder came into use.

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    After grinding and a bit of polishing

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    Now this, I like.

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    And you can skip this part if you allready know how to overhaul an alternator

    This is an old 63 amp alternator from a 89 suburban 6.2D.

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    I seem to recall that is was working, but the bridge was faulty, so it was stored in a box, until I had the time for it.

    A dose of WD40 and a coffeebrake later, I broke it loose with my impact gun

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    I have done this many times, but still everything gets layed out in order.

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    4 Bolts is all that holds the housing together, so with those out, it's quite easy to separate the housing

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    This is the fun part of an overhaul.

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    2 isolated screws have been removed from the previous pic

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    Removed the stator as well.

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    The regulator, brushes and bridge is out.

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    And the condensator.

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    Soon an empty housing.

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    All is out of the housing.

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    The rotoren came out with persuasion by sledgehammer (Witch created a problem, but we'll get back to that later!)

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    The bearing retainer has been removed.

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    The bearing came out without a hitch..

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    The housing is now empty and ready for sandblasting.

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    After blasting I desided that a coat of paint was in order.

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    And a bit on the inside.

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    And outside.

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    Now for the fresh parts.

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    New bearings.

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    Bridge. Regulator and brushes.

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  10. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Just need the stator.

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    Here it is.

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    The bearing in place.

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    Gentle taps with my plastic hammer did the job.

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    Couldn't be bothered with painting the retainer, since it is galvanized.

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    Done with that piece.

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    Stator, rotor, back part of the housing is done.

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    Just need the rest.

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    On with the spacer.

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    Even the bolts got painted.

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    Fan on.

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    Spacer.

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    And taking it apart again, because I fu...ed up the threads with the sledge earlier on. If you taking one of theese apart, use a bolt in the same size as a striker. As that would be a whole lot easier than taking everything apart again, in order to grind down the axle, so the nut will fit again!!

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    Remember this??

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    It is now out, and the brushes are now in contact with the rotor.

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    And how do you like the result?

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    Part one done.
     
  11. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    And time for some body work

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    This took a lot of time

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    Made a few mistakes on the way, but that's something I'll fix later on

    I love these, they work like a charm

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    They lock the plate into position, and give the correct space for welding. (as long as you dont f..k up the measurements.)

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    A few selftapping screews did the trick

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    I have two tailgates, one was so far off, that I just put it a side, and vent with the other one. It still need some adjustment with a grinder, but not nearly as much as the other one.

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    And this is my F.U. should have removed the lip from the tailpan, before I startet cutting the car. As it would have given me a lot more adjustabillaty, and made it easier to fit a long with the trunk lid.
    And I could also hva avoided the construction welding. (The gap)

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    It is repro, and hammer adjusting was required.

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    But since I allready had desided to do something with the lid, I removed it again.

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    You can clearly see the difference in fitment.

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    Nearly there, let's weld

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    This is the welding that takes the longest time to do. One spot at the time, and then wait for it to cool down as you place another one on the other side. Took some time doing.

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    And don't over do it, when it comes to grinding down the welds after. as the plate will buckle if it overheats.

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    Nearly pleased with this

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    Lid back on.

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  12. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Can't be bothered with showing you many hours of removing old paint and filler. so I'll just show you the build.

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    I want the licenseplate build into the lid, and a centrallocking unit, so the licenseplate holder and the lid-lock will be combined. And since the first measuring didn't go so well, I just layed a lot of masking tape over the lid, and the license plate. Made it a whole lot easier to change the design as needed.

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    And the tools needed for the job.

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    Pilotholes, 13mm all the way through the plates, og stepdrill the rest of the way to the markings!

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    Off with the tape and on with the new, and use it as a guideline.

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    Out with the cutout.

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    Nice hole for the licensplate.

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    But not deep enough, so more cutting is required!

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  13. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    This is a low budget build, and spareparts are rare i Norway, if you are not made of money.
    So used parts it is.
    This intake was from a fellow forum user, and was dirtcheap

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    Got a new set of gaskets in the deal.

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    So into the partscleaner, to get rid of dirt and grime

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    Not half bad.

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    So into the blast cabinet, (wich of course is to small!!)

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    This is nice.

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    A testfitting after cleaning and drying. and no, It will get painted.

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    Next installment when I have the time for it.
    Now off to clear out off the garage, so I can continue to work during the lovely Norwegian vinter.
     
    ChucksCrib likes this.
  14. alpo
    Joined: May 7, 2011
    Posts: 690

    alpo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 34 Fords
    2. Mississippi Hambers

    Your Chevy is coming along nicely. Great work. Subscribed.
     
    Pappa Wolf likes this.
  15. dos zetas
    Joined: May 10, 2009
    Posts: 175

    dos zetas
    Member

    Back From the Dead! I like your car a lot, thank you.
     
    Pappa Wolf likes this.
  16. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    It's sunday, snowing, and the kids are at their mothers. A nice hot cup of coffee, and a few logs in the fireplace. And I'm ready for another update, are you? hehehe


    The intake had a few issues including broken threads and a few scored gasket surfaces.

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    And since I couldn't find my carburettor bolts, I made a few studs in stead.

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    In the upper right corner, is the crooked misfit! hehehe

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    A better picture.

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    I fixed it like this. Epoxy and an old baseplate from a Q-jet and patience.

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    Well, it works

    And then the hunt for bolts and nuts startet, for the carb. intake, waterneck and other.

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    This needs blasting, but not right now.
     
  17. Making progress is what it's all about. Looking good too!!
     
  18. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    Some of the bits, that needs blasting

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    Placed the gaskets.

    http://s959.photobucket.com/user/pappa_wolf/media/Hotrod/Masteren 009_28.jpg.html

    And while cleaning the intake, I realized that I might have a problem.

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    The original temp feeler is supposed to sit in the back of the original engine. Well, I don't have that nor the parts to convert it.

    Thought I might try to make an adapter out of this old plug. But soon realized that, that would not be possible.

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    So I had a cup of coffee, and thought things over.

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    Modifying to an electric gauge was the only option I could find, that will fit my budget and skills

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    Conversion time.

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    Could work.

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    After dismantling the gauge

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    Could work.

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    Removed the two small aluminium rivets

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    Test fittet, and it does not look completely out of whack.

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    Drilled a couple of holes in the face plate.

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    Yup, my eyes needs calibrating, cause this is not what I was planning for!!

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    But strangely enough it fits.

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    And it does not look to big.

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    But I might have created some issues later on!

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    Yup, I have.

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    But that is for later. Now everything gets packed away.

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    After washing and cleaning the intake, it got painted.

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    Several layers.

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    And the waterneck.

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    Gaskets on and some RTV silicone in the corners.

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    Placed the intake.

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    Blasted the intake bolts and painted them black.

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    And my stud fell out again. so I fouled up again, Well I'll do better next time.

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    Headers on the passenger side.

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    Got the HEI in place, so I could se it on!

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  19. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

  20. Pappa Wolf
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 136

    Pappa Wolf
    Member
    from Norway

    It has been a long time since I last posted here. But that has it's reasons. I have now moved in with my girlfriend and the master is awaiting room in the garage.
    I'm in cali this week on vacation, but also trying to locate some parts for the car and tool box.
    Nice over here.

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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