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Technical 1936 Ford Pickup Horn Button Conversion?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fan Attic, Jun 4, 2016.

  1. Good day gentlemen, and ladies. I am curios if anyone out there has attempted to modify the horn button conversion kit that Mac's sells (http://www.macsautoparts.com/early_...-ford-script-on-black-button-ford-375509.html) to work in an earlier non-banjo wheel? If so, did it work, did it look good, got pictures or plans?
    And if not, anyone out there successfully mounted a horn button in the center of a '36 or similar pickup stock steering wheel? Could you share a little about how it was accomplished? I am working on a truck that had the lighting moved to a '40 switch on the dash and the owner likes it that way, but wants a conventional horn button rather than the push button on the side of the column and the big hole in the steering wheel.
     
  2. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,155

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    Here's what I did: I ran a thin rod down the center of the steering column. On both ends I put a connector nut (one with long threads used to join to rods) and mounted a momentary switch at the bottom of the column such that when you push the "regular/ stock" horn button, the rod pushes on the switch at the bottom of the column and the horn blows. I used a pretty stout switch like one of those starter switches with the rubber boot as this gets exposed to the elements but has been holding up for four years now. Plus you don't want the horn blowing for a bump or something. The connector nuts allow you to adjust the length of the shaft. I drilled them and put a small set screw at a right angle to the direction of the rod so that once adjusted, they stayed put. There may be an easier way than this Rube Goldberg approach, but since my steering shaft was cut/spliced onto another to facilitate the banjo wheel I reasoned this was a way to get this done.

    Hope this helps

    Pete
     
    Kan Kustom and X38 like this.
  3. Thanks Pete, that eliminates any need for a contact ring somewhere if I'd tried to put the switch at the top of the column. I guess I need to find a button for the center of the wheel as this one is missing. Any chance you've got a picture of how they attach into the center of the steering wheel?
     
  4. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Pete:
    Brilliant fix, right down to its mechanics! I had still been using the wire down the tube method (Ford style) with a relay activated when horn button-grounded.
    Your method is preferable, as I don't use steering 'U' joints.
    The long 'connector nuts' top and bottom serve to center the rod in the steering mast bore.
    Horn relay is still necessary...Don't go honking without one.
     
    AVater likes this.

  5. Never mind Pete, I did a little looking around and I think I get it now. Thanks again for the reply!

    upload_2016-6-5_7-37-19.png
     
  6. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,155

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    One other quick point: I mounted the switch in a small piece of exhaust pipe below the steering box. Hope this helps too.
     
  7. Thanks again Pete, I can kind of visualize that. I looked on Amazon and found a waterproof 10 Amp rated push button that I may get coming, unless you remember what you used and would like to share.
    (http://www.amazon.com/Core-Tools-CT...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
     
  8. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,155

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    Fan Attic: I used something like this: http://www.elecdirect.com/normally-...screw-on-cap?gclid=CMXugOiJks0CFZcdgQod0VIBYQ
    NAPA had them. Nice features--round, fit in the tube and have a shoulder, threads and a nut to lock it down. Cant be sure that is the exact switch but pretty darn close. I think these are essentially starter switches for equipment. Can take many amps. I also was able to use a master cylinder push rod boot to close up the electrical end

    Pete
     
  9. That looks a lot more durable than the switch I found. Thanks again for the help!
     
  10. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,741

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Very cool AVater !
     
    AVater likes this.

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