Hot Rods 1934 3 Window Ford Glass Driver

It arrived today....No surprises yet. I haven't driven it, just met transporter, looked it over and went back to work.

 

How the hell could you do that.

 

Not easily, but I have tomorrow off

 

Good for you. That seems to be a great daily driver candidate. few small changes, but the big point is have fun. 99% of people that see you will not know if glass or steel, they will just think to themselves "cool car".

 

Sure looks great in that picture. I'd put on a pair of hood sides, and drive it till the snow comes.

 

Thanks, yes hood sides or a whole new hood setup are a definite thing. It came with a set of louvered hood sides that I might try to use, eventually I'd like a 4 piece stock hood.

First thing I need to do is get some new tires. So the question is black walls or white walls?

 

Black wall's would be my choice.

 

Sweet 33 Baron, and I agree it looks great with black wall's.

 

Definitely has potential. Jims 34 looked sooo good to me, and then after I stumbled on my DeuceCustoms 34 and talking to him I had to grab it.. Can't wait till its running...Got a build thread going also.

 

I checked out your build thread....very nice.

 

Answer to rust problem:

A Carbon Fiber Chassis is when carbon fiber is used to build the chassis or the frame of a vehicle instead of the usual choice of metals.
A chassis, being the frame of the vehicle has to be rigid or strong to absorb and retain movements and vibrations from the engine, suspension and axles. It should also be as light as possible to improve the vehicle's performance and fuel efficiency.
A carbon fiber chassis is used on performance oriented vehicles because they are approximately twice as rigid, significantly stronger but is much lighter than a steel or aluminium panels.

 

Have you determined who's body it is yet ?

 

I haven't done anything to figure out the manufacturer yet. It does have metal structure under the dash, I'm not sure if that rules out being a Gibbon or not. It is a nice body. I did put it up on my lift and some things leave much to be desired. Lots of booger welds and the front boxing plates seem to be barely welded in place by a few goobers. The auto trans leaks like a sieve and sounds like a gear drive cam. On the bright side, everything else is really nice, including the interior, all electrical works and is new. Also the 1934 frame is in mint condition with no rust or pitting.

 

I'd lower the rear 2-3", fill the tank and stop only to fill it up again.

frank

 

On their web site it says the cowl area is reinforced with steel.

http://gibbonfiberglass.net/33-34_Califoria_Kid_chop.html

 

Wow! Looks great sitting in the driveway!

 

Not sure if these pics of the firewall and cowl can help determine the maker of the body.

 

Unfortunately the th350 needs to be pulled because the pump is going bad. It sucks because I wanted to drive it for a few years before making any big changes with the running gear, at the same time I'm not sure I want to put any money into a th350.

 

No fenders and whites.

 

TH350 is pretty cheap to rebuild. Even if longer term plans are something different, a simple rebuild to drive for couple years seems a good choice. Get that done and still be able to drive around without any fabrication. Just some basic R&R, plus a few hundred $.

 

Yes I agree this will be the best thing to do for now to get it drivable.

One other thing I'd like to do even more than exposed hinges, is get a metal windshield frame in it. I don't really want it to open but it needs to be chrome to look right. Any recommendations on where to buy one?

 

Speedway Motors sells Mr Roadster windshield frames. They are decent and not terribly expensive. Here is a picture of mine in my 32 5W.

 

Check the torque convertor as well as front pump on the TH350. I just went through this with the C4 in my 47. Assumed it was pump, but ended up being the torque convertor.

 

Not as sexy as a 4 speed auto, but TH350's aren't a bad choice....basically a 3 speed powerglide, if I can call it that. Unless you have a menage of varied driving styles.....another TH350 is great with a nice rear gear....for a cruiser/driver. I dig your car....don't let the tranny get ya' down. Lots of fun waiting for you still.

 

I was really hoping to be driving this car by now, but the frame has way too may things that scare me too much to ignore. All of the weld look cold and crappy, boxing plates up front look poorly fit and only tacked in place. The rear has parallel leaves, but the frame is not boxed. I feel like I need to either get a new aftermarket frame or completely redo this frame. I feel like fully boxed rails will help with rust susceptibility.

 

Man don't I know that feeling! And it sucks.
They ( idk who the fuck is "they" but ,,) they say its cheaper to buy a completed project. Then stories like this come up.

 

You're from Southern MN, AB Transmissions, Eagle Lake, MN 507/257-3904, highly recommended, did mine in the Model A.

 

I chopped the speedway windshield frame today. Still need to grind the cut edges a bit and bend for a perfect fit, but I'm happy with the look.


I took some pictures of the way the mustang clip is welded on to see what you guys think. Ultimately I'd like a straight axle front end. However, I'd really like to get the car on the road in the short term, but not if it is not safe.



Also how the rear spring attaching points are. The rear most attaching point for each spring has a 6-8" boxing plate installed in the frame, but the forward mounts do not. These I could clean up and re-weld a bit.


Finally how they hacked the frame for the trans and the bar stock trans mount. I'll definitely have to be addressing this.

 

That flat bar trans mount could be an interesting feeling on bumpy roads

 

Windshield looks great. Looks a bit ragged under there, but I have seen much worse. Any idea how long has the car been together/ miles driven ? I'd fab up a new cross-member for the tranny, grind some of the welds that look shaky and re-weld them so nothing will tear off the frame. Re-enforce any brackets that look weak, and drive the car while you build or shop for a new or used chassis. As you know, doesn't have to be pretty underneath. Just safe.