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1932 roadster windshield/ stantion height?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by redbeard, May 9, 2008.

  1. redbeard
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 713

    redbeard
    Member

    stupid question, but I already search here for an hour.

    I need to know the distance between mounts on the upper stantion for 32 roadster.

    I measured a friends posts and windsheild and posts at 7 1/4" from wing nut to wing nut
    on the stantion, and 9 1/4" outside of windsheild frame at the center.

    I am trying to figure out if this is a stock height or if it is chopped.

    thanks for any help
     
  2. It's chopped. I believe 2".
     
  3. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,566

    Elrod
    Member

    Hope I'm not hijacking, but to add to your question,

    Can the 2 inch chopped 32 stansions they sell, and the 32 roadster windshield frame go on to a 30-31 roadster without modification? Or do you chop a 30-31 roadster frame, and use the 32 stansions?
     
  4. Speedway catalog has dimensions on stocker....The dif on yours and stock would be how much its chopped..stock height at side=13 1/2 inches
    width at top=43 1/4th...at bottom=42"
     

  5. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,811

    Fogger
    Member

    I chopped my '32 Roadster 3". Distance between wingnuts is 6 1/8", vertical center of frame is 8". Hope this helps. The FOGGER
     
  6. Standard terminology is:
    Stanchions bolt to the body.
    Posts go onto the stanchions and the windshield frame bolts to the posts at the top wingnut.

    It's a standard 2" chop.

    My 32 roadsters Wescott chopped 2" posts are 7 1/4" between wingnuts and 9" outside to frame top and bottom in the center of the windshield.

    Another set of 32 posts (Speedway) on my 31 on 32 rails roadster are 7 1/4" between wingnuts.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Elrod, using 32 stanchions on the 30-31s is no big deal.
    The 30-31 A stanchion area the post bolts to is the same as the 32.

    Only modification you'll have to make is to grind part of the stanchion away so the post can tip back.

    You'll probably break through the stanchion as shown in the pic, but no big deal to weld a small plug in there and smooth things off.

    If you don't do some grinding the windshield ends up tipped forward about 15 degrees.
    You'll want to tip the windshield to the rear for a good line.
    Windshield tilt-back makes or breaks the looks of these little cars.

    The tapered washers etc. shown on the 31 stanchion is the same as the 32 so no probs there.

    I'm not sure how the windshield frame will work out for you.
    The curvature of the cowl - 30-31 vs 32 is different - so the 32 may work ok or you may have to use the A windshield frame.
    I'm making my own windshield frame out of rectangular tubing same size as the 32 frame.
    Model A's use round tubing in their windshield frames.

    Since the 30-31s have just about the same size cockpits as the 32 it does look like a 32 windshield would work.
    I do know that the spacing for the tops front oak header is the same on both of my cars - which means a 32 top works just fine if you shorten the single horizontal bar at the front.
    I have pics of that as well if it will help.

    Note as well the 32 windshield frame has the bottom vertical corners turn in and the 30-31 A's come straight down.
    You can see the frame curve in this pic.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. NoLifeTilLeather
    Joined: Jan 26, 2011
    Posts: 42

    NoLifeTilLeather
    Member

    I know this thread is REALLY old, but I'm curious about the radius and width of the deuce cowl versus the Model A. I really want to run with the so-cal windshield on my A highboy, but I'm curious how much the windshield frame has to be worked etc. If anyone has any info, or has done this, I'd really appreciate that help!
    Thanks,
    Phil
     

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