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Hot Rods 1932 Roadster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CTaulbert, Mar 7, 2011.

  1. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 6,708

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    VERY nice work, I love it!!! Keep us posted.
     
  2. qzjrd5
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,256

    qzjrd5
    Member
    from Troy, MI

    Hey - I met you at Autorama. I am friends with Matt P and also work at the General. Would love to come out and see your car. You're doing an amazing job.

    Mike
     
  3. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,233

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    Very Nice. VOODOO likes.

    VR&C
     
  4. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 561

    flthd31
    Member

    I'd love to see a shot or two of it!
    I know a few other guys here on the HAMB that have used this setup and they felt that the car steered and handled very well.
     
  5. roadsterpilot
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 546

    roadsterpilot
    Member

    Keep it coming...............GREAT WORK!!
     
  6. Excellent! Gonna be a good one.
     
  7. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,069

    brady1929
    Member

    i like it. great hot rod
     
  8. McFly
    Joined: Oct 10, 2001
    Posts: 1,163

    McFly
    Member

    Looks great...wanna get rid of that pesky piece of scrap coupe dash? : )

    How do you like that firewall? Any complaints? I'm thinking of getting one.
     
  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,244

    The37Kid
    Member

    YES!!!!!!!!!!!!! A detail guy, and a FULL HOOD! This is going to be fun to watch!
     
  10. philly the greek
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,835

    philly the greek
    Member
    from so . cal.

    I'm hooked ! looking forward to future installments .
     
  11. 32fordroadster
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 144

    32fordroadster
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Nice build, great looking Deuce!!:cool:
     
  12. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,597

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Man the details and over all package is turning out great!!!
     
  13. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,064

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    Mcfly - The firewall is pretty nice. The only problem I have with it is the fit to the cowl near the body line, and the shape of the band that's on it. I picked up a new brookville firewall band, and swapped them out this weekend and solved both issues.
     
  14. McFly
    Joined: Oct 10, 2001
    Posts: 1,163

    McFly
    Member


    What is wrong with the shape of the band? Is it incorrect? Thanks.
     
  15. Nice build. I like it alot.
     
  16. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,756

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    I just used these firewall on a brookville body and the fit is near perfect at the body line...
     
  17. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,064

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit


    It was close, but almost like the radius was too tight on each side leaving a gap that the seal wouldn't have filled. I thought the shape of the band where the cowl lacing sits looked funky too. Other than that, the feet lined up well and the firewall set nice in the body.
     
  18. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 5,965

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    I have used a stock firewall when we assemble a Brookville body and replaced the stocker with a firewall like you have with no problems several times. I also have one in a PU now and it fits good. Really like your build!
     
  19. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,756

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Here are some pics of my firewall with the brookville body.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,304

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Wow! Very nice! Great fabrication and attention to detail!
     
  21. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,064

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    Well I haven't gotten a whole lot done on the car the past few days. I cut open a knuckle Monday night with a cutoff wheel when my grinder hooked and came back in my hands. Anyway, a few stitches (barely missing the tendon) got me to focus on some small things this week.

    I painted the insides of my frog-mouth scoops and dropped the stainless screens in the Strombergs:

    [​IMG]

    Also, I got my gauges in today. I'm running a stock gauge insert, and only keeping 3 gauges. I decided to run a 2 1/8" water temp and oil pressure, and a 3 3/8" tach where the speedometer was - I think most of us drive off a tach anyway. I had to have a fuel gauge, so I came up with the idea of mounting it high and far back on the driver's kick panel so only the driver can see it when sitting in the car. Classic Instruments made these for me. The colors and font are reminiscent of a '40 panel. Here are the pics:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  22. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,064

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I've been working on the master cylinders for the brakes and clutch. I made an adapter for the brake master cylinder to go from the three bolt pattern to the two bolt pattern later part. I initially thought I was going to use outboard ports, but as you can see, I need to get a master cylinder with inboard ports.

    I was thinking about making a bracket that captures both master cylinders (like Ionia does). I decided to have a separate bracket, mainly to make it look less bulky. The bracket will bolt to the outer rail, it's clamped in place in the photo while I decide on its final location.

    [​IMG]

    flthd31 - here are some photos of the steering setup:

    [​IMG]
    Full Left
    [​IMG]
    Full Right
    [​IMG]
     
  23. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 5,867

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    Your steering pics are somewhat enlightening to me. Whenever I had pondered a cross-steer setup, I figured the steering-box would need to be way forward on the frame-rail. Obviously, that's not the case, and the angle of the draglink is perfectly fine.
     
  24. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 561

    flthd31
    Member

    Thanks for the pics. Here's a shot of mine. It's in just about the exact location as yours only higher on the rail. I'll be connecting from the bottom of the pitman arm. Wish I had done it your way...looks cleaner.
     

    Attached Files:

  25. First class all the way.She's a real beauty.
     
  26. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,064

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I started to set up the pitman arm using the '39 part, but it was going to have some funky bends in it. That earlier pitman arm worked out well. As far as height - that's as high as I could get my box and not have issues with my Fenton headers. The nut on the pitman shaft is above the oil pan, so I don't think I'll have any clearance issues.
     
  27. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,103

    flatoz
    Member

    been following this, just some things to think about. with the draglink and your cross steerlink, if you read up on them supposedly your meant to have them parallel in both planes, so when you look at them from floor level looking horizontal and also vertical so from above.

    I went to great pains to set my roadster up that way as best I could, I have seen cars that have been set up similar to yours but not as vicious angle. Supposedly that sort of angle will cause bump steer, I can't say it will and can't say it won't but might be worth doing some reading to make sure your happy before the cars all done.

    Other thing with the steering link, have you tried it with the sump on the motor? I'm assuming you took this into consideration, as the sumps are pretty deep and in the photos of the motor in the car to me it looks like the steering might hit your sump?

    I hope not. I'm loving your build thread, real class stuff.

    cheers.
     
  28. ratrod0
    Joined: Apr 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,045

    ratrod0
    Member

    nice job one of these days I'll get one
     
  29. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,064

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit


    Ideally, you would want the tierod and draglink to be parallel in both planes. This would help minimize bumpsteer, but keep in mind every suspension has bumpsteer to some degree.

    Hot Rodding is a series of compromises between form and function. I do not know of any traditional cross steer box that will get the box far enough forward to make the draglink parallel to the tierod, unless you go the route of using an aftermarket or fabbed column with u-joints. I'm not willing to use a u-jointed steering setup because that screams late model street rodding to me. Based on a previous vehicle I built with this same setup, as well as a buddy who had done a few cars with it as well, I can tell you that the vehicle behaves predictably with no noticeable bumpsteer.

    My mock up block does not have an oil pan, but I did have the real motor on a stand taking measurements as I went along making sure I had plenty of clearance.
     

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