The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by x77matt, Jan 4, 2018.
Looks great! Love the color.
Looks really good Like the color
yup- I had to tweek it though- it’s basically an ARP 7/16” Stud that fits the bearing and on the engine side, it’s turned down to (I forget what size) the bolt size that fits into the cover bolt hole. I think 5/16. There is enough meat on that big stud to be able to turn it down and re-thread.
thanks a lot guys! I’ve been killing myself the last few months so I could target the July break to paint. Still need to do the hood and grill etc, but I can now start assembling things to the main chassis/body!
I’ve been using a razor blade perpendicular to the surface to “shave” the bugs off. Then I will wet sand and polish.
Those little nib sanders work well. https://www.eastwood.com/painters-n...IKnxL0nL1XtfJFI2YULz0I3rkLYkHNgcaAsnMEALw_wcB
thanks T-man. I remembered last night that I had the little round file nib in my cabinet. I used it and it was so much better for the bugs than the razor.
If you going to color sand and buff you can use water and a bar of Lava soap to block runs out. The soap has enough fine pumice in it to cut the runs out and it cuts really flat. Water and Lava
Don't take this as criticism, but concern.. i'm not sure you will want to throw much force at that stud like that. Might consider incorporating multiple of those timing cover bolts into a bracket to support the idler.
no offense taken- always open to ideas. I had the same thought but that’s how H&H designed the kit with many in service. It would be nice to do what you suggest and make an adapter bracket with a slot for more adjustability
After much wet sanding to 2000 and 2 rounds of polish with Meguiars 105 heavy cut, and 1 round of 205 fine cut, it’s looking decent. Still a little haze though, so I need to get myself an orbital and another round of polish
When I opened the latest post and read your comment about a little haze, - I was going to say, ‘ when you can take a photo of yourself in it, it’s time to stop polishing ‘ ..... then I scrolled onto the second pic.....
Looks fantastic .....thanks for taking us along.
Looks like a MIRROR I would like to know what you consider A little HAZE.
Since I’m just a we bit older than you, I will try to confidently pull this compliment off.
Boy, ya done good.
Oh, and the best color choice of course.
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Matt...Thrilling, I've been right there with you all the way through.
Great story from the beginning, what a find!
("These were all parts that had been used as templates on other '32 roadster projects...")
<Wish my T tub was a Deuce. Wish my T tub was a Deuce. etc.>
Outcome of Template is supreme. Not bad for a tugboat mechanic!
Looks real good.
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Hey guys- it been a while and I’ve been plugging away on a lot of small stuff. I finished the transmission this weekend!
I have a local friend who races Camaros in SCCA and had a couple blown up t5’s around, so we made a deal that I would pay him for parts and he would teach me how to build a t5. Great deal! I started with an @Kato Kings adapter, a world class main shaft (impossible to find) and a donor Jeep box. I wanted the good close ratio 2.95 gear set in the Camaro so I used a Camaro case, gear set, and cluster gear. I tore it down, moved all the main shaft gears to my custom Jeep main shaft and installed a really beefy 0.80 ratio 5th gear set from 5speeds.com. Because I had already set my clutch up with a 10 spline setup, and didn’t want to pull the flathead oil pan to change the clutch, I used a mustang 10 spline 24 tooth input shaft. I ended up having to clearance the Jeep tail shaft for the 5th gear but it turned out good! The coolest part is I learned a new skill and that’s always a bonus.
Always good to learn something new. And it's easier to diagnose issues later, if need be, if you know what the insides look like.
Really enjoying this build. Particularly interested in the seat fab as I need to do one for my roadster. The wood looks better than plain old plywood, is that a finish grade plywood ? Thickness ? What is the hardware used to secure wood to the mounting tabs ?
Awesome car and a very well done build thread.
hey Ric- for the seat, I borrowed a template from a friend who already had the math figured out. I used birch plywood 3/4” mounted to a steel base. You could do it in wood also though. For the foam I used a profile pattern and went to the local foam shop and had some pieces water jet cut.
The $50 generator....
I discover during the belt Mock up that the 59a style generator I had didn’t line up correct with the pulley. Also I wanted a 12v setup. I saw an Instagram post recently and lost it before I could save it, but recalled enough to duplicate it. The 12v generator core is a nice re-man unit for $48 off rock auto (summit as well). It’s all the same case as early Ford, so I got in the junk pile and scrounged up a cool front end and pulley that did t have a 59a style mount on it, and I trimmed the tab off the rear cover. The new unit has the shaft tuned down for a 30mm is roller bearing. You could replace the bearing with a 22mm od one and hone out the stock rear cover if you wanted to reuse the old style rear cover. I may still want to do that bit for now I’m doing this:
Hope you have remembered Ford and Delco generators have different internal connections.
Need to use matching regulator. Or change field connections to match reg.
Thanks for the generator post. We just got a 61 Thunderbird 12V generator to adapt to friend's 8BA, with wide pulley. Should get into that over the next few days.
@Garpo , do you have schematics so we can use different regulator, as we don't have one yet?
I have somewhere an old book with good drawings of the circuits, but can't lay my hand on it.
If my memory is functioning correctly the Ford system regulates between the armature and field terminals, with the other end of the field circuit grounded inside the generator.
The Deco system regulates between field and ground. The field is fed internally from the main output brush (armature terminal) and is grounded through the regulator.
Either way works, but the regulator must match. Ford with Ford; Delco with Delco. Or change the internal connections of the Generator to make it match.
If I have it wrong, I am sure someone will correct me very quickly.
Don't forget to "flash" it after installation
I probably would have!
thanks- I’ll have to look into this deeper. Initial observation was that everything inside was completely identical to the Ford unit. It’s only 2 bolts to pull apart so I will do a little more investigating.
What's AC Delco doing making Ford parts?
I was wondering the same thing. Looks like the number crossed to a Ford in this case.... the mystery continues
Yup, a Ford part. And that's a great price if it has a new armature and field coils.
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