Okay, so when I originally built the engine for my 32 Cabriolet, I tried to get headers from Red's (they were having production issues), so I went to Bob Drake and they had some in stock -- I think I paid about $200 for them (this was 1.5 years ago). They fit fine - so I ceramic coated them and ran them. When I pulled to engine late last summer to build a new 39 Zephyr trans for it - happened to look UP the exhaust pipe where the downpipe from the rear port attached to the main tube -- CRAP! The cut-out was done with a torch - about the size of a quarter. Bad flow JuJu! Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh - so I decided I wanted a new set of headers and THIS TIME, I was going to do them a bit differently! Problem - Standard Belond Style Headers - Kind of Suck!: Almost everybody makes their typical "3 into 1" flathead headers like Belond did back in the 50's. The headers end in a straight piece of 1 3/4 tubing - no flanges, no nothing on them. Also, the headers typically do not really account for the K-member or X-member . . . the passenger side tends to blow right into the cross-member (which really sucks). Most guys just bring their car to a "muffler shop" and they do some sort of crappy "slip on" connector - then use a big-ass U-bolt to crimp the crap out of it and hopefully kind of seal the tail pipes to the straight end of the 'Belond Style' headers. These connections always leak and if you really tighten them up - just try to get your tailpipes BACK OFF the headers at a later date! The bottom line is that everybody has just continued to replicate the 'Belond Style' - and little improvements have been made (for this type of header). Well - I have had enough . . . if I'm going to install a new header on the FlatCab, then it is going to be a BETTER header - one that I'm proud of and that will last. LOL! Partner in Header Crime - Dave Havlir: I like working with different vendors - especially if we can improve a product and do something "better" - at least as I see it. Also, creating great relationships with other HotRod guys and using a 'team approach' to problem solving and product development has always appealed to me. So, I saw that Dave Havlir ("Havlir House of Fabrication") has been working on various header designs - and he does custom work, so I dropped him a note. I told him that I didn't like his 32 design on the driver's side - wanted to do them differently . . . wanted a big 'duck bill' style of transition (like the Belond), but wanted more clearance around the steering box and a different exit point location in the rear, flanges, etc.. Somehow he didn't just hang up on me - as I was telling him I thought his baby was a bit ugly and I had a better idea! LOL. Dave was headed up to the Detroit Autorama and he agreed to stop by --> we'd put my 32 up on the hoist, go over the good/bad parts of the Drake and Belond styles and he could take all the measurements he wanted. Essentially, I'd work with him - lend him some old headers and he could redo his designs in the process -- I would be willing to work through design challenges and would fabricate my own flanges and final configuration (to fit my unique needs). Dave agreed to work with me -- and the result was a set of quality "starting" headers - that I then worked from. Dave is not a high-speed, low quality production dude - his products will be higher priced, but he can work with you to achieve what you need - given the particulars of your configuration. YES - it will cost more than typical 'Belond Copies', but in the end - you'll have what you really want. This is especially true if you can handle some of the fabrication on your end for how you want to transition to your side or tail pipes. Dave Havlir Havlir House of Fabrication Ashland, Va 23005 (804) 245-1959 Two Times is a Charm - Driver's Side: We made one big 'tactical error' - when we measured the complex Driver's side (up on the hoist), the suspension was all hanging down. What we did NOT account for were the stock wishbone and mechanical brake rods -- they would be HIGHER and closer to the engine/frame when the suspension was back up (loaded). Dumb, dumb, dumb! When I received the first set of headers from Dave, the driver's side header came down too low -- cause of our dumb mistake. There was interference with the wishbone and brake rods . . . Argggggh. So I shot photos, took some measurements and Dave reworked his design -- that is the type of guy he is. That is why we are a good team together! Fabrication Work on My End: 1) I took the headers as they came from Dave (straight ends - like Belond - couple inches longer). 2) I bought 16 gauge u-bends in a few different bend radiuses -- such that I could fabricate "turn downs" exactly as I wanted them. Then I fit the u-bend pieces with the headers on the engine (in the chassis) - tacked them in, then TIG welded the down-tubes and the 2-bolt flanges on that Dave sent me. The goal was to make it EASY to fabricate bolt-on tail pipes, have nicely flowing bends and for the headers to look good (at least to me!). Here are both sides - after the initial fabrication/welding work: 3) You Can't Tune a Piano, But You Can Tune A Flathead Fish: I've spent quite a bit of time on both engine and chassis dynos -- and am responsible for all our electronics, data collection and reporting for the FlatCad race car at Bonneville. Plus - I'm a 'computer guy' - I like data! I want to be able to 'see' how the engine is running, understand how my carbs are working and experiment with different carbs, jets, power valves, etc.. The best way for me to do this is to be able to monitor the AFR (air fuel ratio) and also the EGTs (exhaust gas temps). The AFR is most important, but I might as well have EGT data as well. So, I added sensor 'bungs' to the headers (close to the flanges for the EGTs) and wideband O2 bungs to the tail pipes. The O2 sensors need to be 18" or more from the rear exhaust port - AND you can't have any leaks that might pull oxygen in. This is another reason for having flanges and gaskets in all transition points - no leaks equal accurate AFR readings. I will be setting the monitoring/gauge system up in the future - will do some thorough posts as such (stay tuned as I have a few ideas to have fun with!). Here you can see the headers with the EGT bungs in them. Notice the beautiful 'Duck Bill' transitions on the driver's side -- now we're talking baby! And you should see the insides - nicely cut out to follow the transition shape - quality stuff here! 4) Ceramic Coatings: I'm a big believer in ceramic coatings - I use them on my pistons, exhaust, valves, carbs, etc.. I sand blasted the finished headers/pipes, baked them to remove any oils or other contamination, applied two coats of high-temp black ceramic coatings and then heat cured them at 600 degrees for an hour. This type of coating is really strong and the heat won't touch it (even up by the ports). Also, I put enough on the pipes to stop them from rusting in a year - like the ones I seem to get from all the 'coating suppliers' I've used. (This is why I got into it myself - I needed control over the process -- end to end). 5) Final Configuration: I reworked some exhaust hangers to bolt to two of the front fender to running board bolts -- making a nice flexible hanger (though it is probably not needed for my short side pipes). Everything was fabricated such that the pipes exit about 4" back from the fender to running board seam -- and about 1/4" under the running board lip. They are kind of loud . . . so I might end up putting flanges and 'block off plates' on the sides and run tail pipes to the rear - otherwise I might hurt my hearing. You can see the O2 bungs in the tail pipe. 6) One Casualty: I somehow managed to drop one of my high-temp welding mits into the oven and NOT see that I had . . . whupsie . . . kind of fried that sucker to death! Oh Hell, something always goes wrong when us humans attempt to do new things . . . Youtube link to a video of them running (in the workshop). Road Testing and Video To Follow: I just purchased a GoPro - will take a real road-test video later this week . . . to see if they perform any better (by seat of the pants testing) and for you to hear what they sound like from inside the car. Enjoy! B&S
So when can I get a set. Did he happen to make a pattern? Can we just call him and order a set of custom flatcab headers?
If you're looking for something like this, give Dave a call - let him know that you and I are another pair of 'Partners in Crime' - he'll get you taken care of. His will NOT have the turn-downs on them . . . but he is working on setting up a stock 32 chassis with a flathead in it - so he can customize and tweak his configurations for his customers. I have encouraged him to come out with a set with the turn-downs and flanges ready to go - for exactly the reasons I mentioned up above. Yes - they will cost more - but in the end one will actually end up with a much better product, one that flows very well and makes it easy to take the exhaust system on/off as we all want. My guess is that one will actually save money in the end (no screwing around with the k-members, x-members and crappy tailpipe work). THAT is worth the extra money to me!
The Jalopy Journal
