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Projects 1931 Model A Coupe Y-Block Build (Father&Son)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by NathanxStewart, Jan 4, 2016.

  1. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 32,261

    loudbang
    Member

    Heck of an update what an adventure. God forbid if you have to change cams or lifters you can use good old clothespins to hold the lifters up in the block while you remove or replace the cam. Or be fancy and purchase the set of clips that are made for that purpose. :rolleyes:
     
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  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,859

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    So, how long did the proper length intake manifold bolts end up being?

    I’m not sure how long they’ll need to be for my Edelbrock 573 tripower but I’ll definitely have to be cautious not to have the pushrod contact you had.

    The engine sounds great.
     
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  3. Bummer about the engine but that is one fine hot rod you built, well done.
    Good all the way through it's a good read.
     
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  4. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    That may vary, depending on the intake manifold used, and the hold down blocks ( mummert hold downs on this one ). To be safe, put your intake on with the valve covers off. You can see right down the pushrod holes and see if the bolts protrude.

    Sent from my SM-T377V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,859

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks, I’ll do that. I wanted to get a set of the Mummert aluminum hold down blocks but last time I talked to him he didn’t have any.

    I’ll have to call him again.

    I’m planning on using some ARP bolts for the ends and I’ll definitely be looking at the pushrod clearance and put the valve covers on last.
     
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  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,881

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Cool to hear it’ll roar on 93, @porknbeaner and I have had some conversations about how much compression we thought we could get away with on pump gas and concluded that we could probably do 11/1 but would possibly need to use a cam that would effectively bleed a little of that compression off.
     
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  7. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    It runs real strong on 93 with the booster, but it loves Cam2 racing fuel. The pistons are custom made (forged) with a 14cc dome to get that compression. I think the most you can get with an off the shelf piston and ecz-g heads is 10:1.
    When you choose a cam, be sure that it has the center cam bearing journal modified with a deeper groove than stock cams. That's part of the formula for getting plenty of oil to the top end. All of the cams that Mummert sells have this done to them.

    Sent from my SM-T377V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  8. aussie57wag
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 233

    aussie57wag
    Member
    from australia

    Another option is to get someone to push the lifters in from the bottom and put zip ties round the top to hold them in. But at least your way its a one man job. Good on you for using a y-block.

    Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  9. Too bad about the bolt hitting the push rod problem , the Y blocks have a few little areas that you have to be careful about. one of them is the length of the bolt that holds down the valley cover, if you use a bolt that is too long there it can hit the camshaft. Head bolt length is another area that you have to be careful, there two bolts that are just a little longer. Bolts that hold the timing cover can hit the cylinder wall if too long also. Main bearing torque is wrong in a lot of manuals also. With a Y block, the rule is to check and recheck.
     
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  10. Yep! I heard of the clothespins trick but I felt like that was very finicky and they could let loose very easily while I was installing the cam. I felt more comfortable with the magnets cause I knew they weren't going to let go. I didn't know about the clips you can purchase for that though... that's interesting. Maybe I'll get those next time I wipe the cam hahah


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  11. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,062

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There is a tool for putting lifters in a Y block we used at the OEM dealers. You put the lifter in thru the can bore and pulled the lever and it stood the lifter up and you put it in the hole and we used clips to hold them up, close pins work well too.
     
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  12. Not sure on the length, don't remember considering this was almost a year ago haha! But like my dad said, just make sure to leave the valve covers off and look through the push rod guides with a flashlight. If you can see the bolt I would for sure get a shorter one to where you can't see it protruding through. As you can see, it causes an ugly mess.

    Thank you sir, I'm very happy with this combination!


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  13. Hey it's just something to laugh about now, had the car back on the road for good two weeks later!

    Thank you very much, this car means so much to me.


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  14. Yep, I buy the Octane booster by the case at my local napa. I've gotten to know the guys there pretty well and they sell me the case at cost! I think it's $73 for a case of 12 15 fl oz bottles.

    Good deal, running a Y-Block? Can't wait to hear it.


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  15. Yep, when I was doing research on how to do it I came across that option too. Thank ya sir!!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  16. I knew about the valley cover bolts cause you can see the cam lobes right through the hole the valley cover bolt threads into. And knew about the head length, the two bolts that are little longer I believe went on the front back, right?

    Didn't know about the timing cover bolts though! I think I'm good there though, considering I've got roughly 6,000 miles on the car, plus I used the original stock bolts on the timing cover.

    I got the main bearing torque spec off of Tim Mcmasters website, cranked all down to the spec, then went back over them. Thanks!!


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  17. Hummmm Y-Block mmmmm
    20180422_095240.jpg
     
  18. As some of you may know I've been learning the upholstery trade for the past 2 and a half years. I've grown to really like it and am planning on doing this for the rest of my life. I've been employed full time at the shop I work at for 2 years now.

    Well I figured it was time to give this old dodge caravan seat some love and get rid of that 80's seat cover haha!

    I've always been a huge fan of oxblood vinyl and diamonds. I figured those would go perfect in my coupe.

    This is my very first seat cover I've designed, stitched up, and installed completely by myself. My mentor just coached me through it. I'm very very proud of this seat.

    BEFORE

    [​IMG]

    AFTER

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wanted to add my own touch to it so I came up with my own signature stitch.... not easy to do hahah

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. Well, damnit, you should be very proud of that upholstery job!
    All the way from the vinyl to the detail...
    That’s how it was done and has the perfect
    “Old Timey” look to it.
    But, should have expected that as the whole car is excellent.
     
  20. Thank you very much!! That's exactly what I wanted to is to have that old timey look. Thanks again!!


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  21. loudbang likes this.
  22. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,881

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Yeah ive been back and forth between the headers and the new seat trimming as far as my favorite part of this car. Love em!
     
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  23. Interesting! Seems like there's actually quite a few tricks you can do to get the lifters in from the bottom and stay


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  24. Haha thanks Tim!!!


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  25. It will be a 28 or 29. I have this pile of parts to do a RPU. Or I have A rust free straight 28 2 door sedan Body, I have titles for both in my name so it could go eather way. At present I honesty don't know.
    20180422_111941_Burst01.jpg
     
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  26. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 32,261

    loudbang
    Member

    Looks GREAT. :)
     
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  27. 55Deso
    Joined: Nov 7, 2015
    Posts: 244

    55Deso
    Member
    from Wyoming

    Hands down one of my favorite builds here! That Y-block sounds killer and the uphostery looks bitchin' The only thing I would change is the name on the title ;)
     
  28. The depth of the oil groove is really a non issue for us. I have access to a lathe in a pinch. But that is damned good information to know thanks. :cool:
     
  29. So when can I pickup a seat for mine.
     
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  30. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 6,850

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    Hey Nathan... haven't been around much for a while until recently, and admittedly kind of lost track of your project. Pretty excited to see you putting the final touches on your hot rod coupe... including this latest Y block.
    I told your dad a couple years ago or so that knowing his and your passion, abilities and work ethic, I won't be at all surprised if you become one of those guys who hot-rodders seek out to do their upholstery. That seat seems to bolster my prediction.
    I very much wish for continued success for you.

    Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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