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Projects 1929 Roadster Pickup Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, Jan 14, 2011.

  1. hrspwrranch
    Joined: Oct 10, 2011
    Posts: 17

    hrspwrranch
    Member

    Any progress? Look forward to some updates.
     
  2. Any updates on your project?

    Frenchy
     
  3. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    My part is pretty much done on this one. I finish welded all the stuff on the frame, and so it's ready for the owners to take back and finish up. Im sure they will update pictures here, or I will make sure to get some pictures from them and update you guys.

    Thanks to everyone for your comments and support on this project. It really was a blast to be involved in.


     
  4. Iron Crank
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Iron Crank
    Member

    The future is so bright for a nice young man with talent, style and enthusiasm. Did mention talent?

    HUGE THANKS Chris. It's been really cool to see the positive comments on your work car. We'll be sure to keep you posted.
     
  5. Iron Crank
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Iron Crank
    Member

    Sorry, meant your work on the car.
     
  6. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Hey Chris I only just found this project, The hamb moves so fast i missed it, Its all looking very good.
     
  7. Did you modify the radiator shell. If you did how many inches was it modified from the original lenght.

    Frenchy
     
  8. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,882

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    Said it before, I'll say it again, I love this build...so clean and tidy. Like the hairpins too. Any concern they may be too stiff (torsionally) to allow much articulation in the front axle? Assuming the i-beam twists just a smidge, it's probably fine?
     
  9. cryptkepper
    Joined: Feb 29, 2012
    Posts: 155

    cryptkepper
    Member
    from louisanna

    hello, I am hoping you can help me. I have been following the build of the 1929 rpu and have decided to build my own body, I have looked on the internet and can find no info on width at the bottom of the cowl of depth from fire wall to dash of height of the center of the fire wall. If you can help i sure would appreciate it. thanks
     
  10. stephane-rod
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 208

    stephane-rod
    Member
    from france

  11. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I'd love to help, but I don't have the car here at the shop anymore. Maybe the owner can chime in :)


     
  12. Halfdozen
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 632

    Halfdozen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> I love this car, love the original concept, the details, the workmanship.

    There was some discussion of suspension and radius rods. Having some suspension knowledge and experience, I have to add my $.02 here.

    Henry’s original wishbone layout, front and rear, put the wishbone pivot ball on the centerline of the car. As the car encountered bumps, or the body rolled when turning corners, the suspension pivoted around the ball joints at the ends of the wishbones. The same layout was used front and rear, I’ll use rear suspension for my example, the same applies to the front.

    When we split the wishbone, we move the forward radius rod pivots off the centerline, towards the frame rails. Think about what now happens when you turn a corner: the rear axle stays parallel to the ground, so the rear radius rod mounts stay at the same height. But as the frame rolls, the forward ends of the radius rods change height- if you’re turning left, the left one rises and the right one drops. The farther away from the car’s centerline the front mounts are, the more pronounced this effect is. So the radius rods are forced to bend every time the body rolls. Add to this the torque of a healthy motor trying to rotate the rear end under acceleration, and something’s eventually gonna break. The front suspension is more forgiving because a beam axle will twist along its length, in effect acting as an antiroll bar. A tube axle will not twist, thus requiring a different radius rod setup, such as a four bar that pivots at all ends. Rear axle housings don’t twist either, thus requiring a linkage arrangement that allows travel without binding or bending things.

    You don’t need to be an engineer to understand this. The axles stay parallel to the ground, the frame does not. Yes, it has worked for decades, more or less. Lots of cars have broken too. A design that requires parts to bind, bend or twist every time the suspension moves is less than ideal, regardless of how elegantly the parts are made. Not trashing Chris here (his work is beautiful), just stating a simple fact.

    Check out ElPolacko’s Industrial Chassis website for some brilliant solutions to this problem.
     
  13. Iron Crank
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Iron Crank
    Member

    Input always appreciated. I'm not sure what you're trying to suggest about the particular project here. How 'bout 2 more pennies or so? Thanks.
     
  14. Iron Crank
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Iron Crank
    Member

    As for the questions regarding dimensions Chris forwarded, I'm happy to get some measurements. I'm not sure I'm reading this right. One more time for a favor? Thanks.
     
  15. e-tek
    Joined: Dec 19, 2007
    Posts: 424

    e-tek
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    Any updates???
     
  16. mdcolby
    Joined: Dec 5, 2009
    Posts: 210

    mdcolby
    Member

    did this project ever get finished? Pictures of the finished RPU?
     

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