*#* 1243 is the order for the Dec 2013 Banger Meet*#*

One more pic...


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Does it have A size bearing journals?


.

 

Yes...
It might just be a box that it was shipped it. My buddy got it on eBay 7-8 years ago. I called the guy who shipped it to him and he can't remember. I sent him a pic but didn't hear back.
Does it look like a Burlington Crank
I only saw one 3-4 years ago and I was thinking this one looked better but it was so long ago I have no clue


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Danner
Glad to see your car out getting flogged!!!

BC
You the man!!! Nice Vid

Bearing Burner
There were no other cars near the empty field I was playing in, just some Valley Oaks. I'm not crazy enough to push it to the point of wrecking my A, don't worry, we were just having a bit of fun!!!

 

any suggestions of where to find tuning info on dodge fast four motors?

i'm looking at moderate streetable upgrades rather than full tilt race only.

I have already messaged rich fox and the Montana boys.

thanks.

 

Rich is the king if he will tell you some tips why look any more.


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I got a email from the guy who sold the crank to my buddy.

Looks like my new crank is a Burlington Crank. Any one have any close up shot of one. You would think it would be marked if they where proud of there work.

The funny part is when my buddy got it. They said they had a small lot made to off set the price. This was the last one they had.
People will say anything to sell something.



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Here are few pictures.

 

Thanks Tuumer



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Noticed this on eBay today....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-A-B-Banger-Lake-Header-SCTA-Flathead-Ford-/201003432211

 

That's Matt from gear drive
He has one of my intakes that he chromed. They look killer together.


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Here's a shot of TJ here on the HAMB and me running down the beach



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Any history info on this AK Miller water-warmed intake. Carb inlet is 1 5/8 and manifold side is 2". Casting # on back is 100-3. Application???

 

Is it a warmer or chiller for a supercharger. Do you know how it mounts


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He did a lot of turbo charger kits- liked 6 cyl. stuff.

 

For some reason I want to say that heated manifold was used on stationary motors, turbo charged and probably on natural gas or propane.

I had built a SB chevy on propane and single turbo years ago. Very drivable and made some good HP when the boost tuned up.

J

 

Turbo!?!?!?!?!!!

 

I thought the idea is to cool air going to the motor, not warm it?

 

It would depend on the fuel, as I recall propane is liquid in the tank and must be vaporized before going into motor. Due to expansion it tends to want to freeze up carbs etc.

Ak made quite a bit of turbo and propane fuel on stationary motors, very efficient and low maintenence.

J

 

On my bangers both updraft and downdraft on cool mornings the base of the carb and intake has frost forming... So, is this AK's answer to a modern style heat riser to warm the intake charge?

 

How about this, Hoodlum teens in hopped up bangers:

 

I don't know how funny this might be, I went to school right there at Pasadena High.
And was given speeding ticket in late '70s at that exact intersection.

small world isn't it.

 

Pinto or some other 170 ci engine turbo I think

 

Looks lile they are running a autopulse fuel pump.

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I like the clarification that the 2 women were (Strictly Passengers).

 

I am just thinking out loud and would like your 2 cents....

I am going to have new Babbitt put in my model A this winter. I am going to make new Caps that will pin to keep the true. My question is should I have them keep the shims out? Would that make for a better support and less rear main oil leak?I know there will always be a seam but it would be much smaller.
The down side I can't take a little shim out like I did this summer but that is only putting a bandaid on the problem and will need to be fixed right sooner then later.
Thanks for any input...


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My $0.02 = You need the shims.
If you are triing to eliminate the seam/ oil leak, use some silicon when you assemble the rear main.

.

 

your like me . im keeping my car till I die . I put inserts in & am a happy camper ........ steve

 

Yep shims in I run shells but many of the older or should I say more experienced chaps run babbit and shims even at the dry lakes thats good enough for me.

 

Not trying to hi jack this months thread, but looking for a little direction from someone with more banger smarts than myself...... I am trying to "un-do" someone's mistake while they were trying to line bore an engine for inserts. They wandered too far off the beaten path and destroyed a rear cap - I ended up with a great block; sleeved to standard, new rods & pistons, good valve train and only one small crack near a valve seat that I believe can be fixed. If I can locate a good rear main cap, I plan on buying a pair of steel replacements from Dan McEachern and then go back to a babbit main bearing set up. My thoughts are ; if I can get the block set up for babbitt, I can salvage an otherwise great engine that someone screwed up because they did not know what they were doing. Oh, FYI - the I.D. of the blocks mains are now too large for the inserts currently available through Rich @ Antique Engine Rebuilding, and I have not been able to locate anything suitable to fill in the space. Any help, suggestions, comments, all welcomed.
Thanks, Steve Hackel