The Jalopy Journal
I’m not sure it they are still available or not but, when I lowered the front of my ‘54, back in 1998, I ordered dropped uprights and dropped...
Definitely some similarities. [ATTACH][ATTACH] Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
According to the old inter web search, Russ Meeks built it and a guy named Greg White owns it now. Russ removed the b-pillars and chopped it 2”....
[ATTACH] I made my own side mounts. I’m running a ‘56 261 in my ‘54. As previously stated, you can press the hub further onto the water pump...
That’s Bill Hoffman’s car. I’ve never seen these pictures of it. These are from the later years when it had the seaweed flames. If you look...
Here, in Wisconsin, our local auto parts stores sell “replacement” spout kits. They’re intended for the old cans, but I’ll be damned if they don’t...
Sorry about the crappy old cell-phone pictures. These are the front mounts I built for my ‘54. The engine is s 1956 261....
Judging by the bracing and frame, I’d say early Chevrolet. I can tell you it is not 31-33 truck because the beading is different. Probably late...
I’ve also got a ‘42 1/2 ton. The only bright-work on it are the 3 strips on the hood sides. Everything else was gun-metal grey, because all of the...
I recently picked up a ‘46 truck chassis, just for the open drive banjo. I was surprised to find 3.54:1 gears in it. [IMG][IMG] Sent from my...
The photo from #3 looks like it was taken from the Hot Rod article “Fabricating A Pavement Hugging Early Ford Chassis”. They used a ‘40 open-drive...
The good stuff is still out there. Yesterday I picked up a ‘46 open drive banjo, 2 complete sets of square-back spindles (with brakes) and several...
In 1992, at the tender age of 16, I bought my first car from our local Chevrolet dealer. It was a 1954 Chevrolet "Club-Coupe". At that time, the...
Not to insult your intelligence, but is the battery fully charged? If it is, check your cables and connections.
'53 and '54 are the same. '55-57 electric motor is a direct bolt-on for '53-54.
Tim, good job on your build thread, so far. I like how you have it set up. I also like the proportions of your T. You can never go wrong with...
This is one I have been working on in my freetime. I still need to finish the wheels and a couple other things.
This is awesome. The only thing they haven't taken into consideration is that the car takes up 4 times as much space while it's being built. Part...
oldwagonlover, I am an automotive machinist by trade. I did the work myself. At the time, i was running an engine machine shop. Realistically, to...
Here is the full Engine Builder article on the Powerstroke one-piece rear main seal installation. Sorry about the poor quality, I had printed the...
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I've had a few people PM me about the one piece 'Powerstroke' rear main seal the I have in my 261. The seal part number is CR-38649. You'll need...
I built the 261 for my '54 sedan, about 14 years ago. Since the initial build, I've gone back through the engine and made some upgrades. The...
It's been a loooooooong time since I've posted in a FAS. This is a drawing that I've got in the works, right now. I'll put up the finished...
If I'm not mistaken 1987 or 88 was the last year for the mechanical speedometer. So 1993 would definitely be an electronic speedo. Posted using...
$200!!! I paid $100 for a good mechanical speedometer S10 T5... and it came with a complete truck! Check around in your area. Find an established...
Hello from West Salem! What year is the Beezer? I will be the proud owner of a 68 Firebird Scrambler, before the end of winter. Posted using the...
It's a mile from my house. Count me in. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'm in West Salem, about 15 minutes east of LA Crosse. I live about 5 blocks from I-90 (exit 12). Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
As a rule, there is no need to touch the seal surface when you grind a stovebolt crank. Usually just a polishing because you don't want to change...
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The Jalopy Journal
