I have pulled many of drums off model A's. Never had a problem with my two jaw puller. This 39 another story. My two jaw was not working. So i quickly wiped this puller up and threw on a monster impact. Still wont move. The drum does spin very easy. I also took the bolts out of the wheel cylinder to help. Still spins nice but wont even show a sign of pulling off. I threw some heat on the drum where i think its holding on to the taper. Not moving still. My question...can add lots of heat with out hurting that axle?? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Put a rim on it loosely with some nuts done up.. and use it like a slide hammer. Thats how i broke free some drums i had on a rusted looking banjo rear end.
Heat the taper evenly while applying pressure with the puller.You can use a significant amount of heat without hurting the axle.bob
once you have the puller wound up tight get your heaviest hammer and smack the center bolt to shock the axle, tighten and repeat.
Ok.. thanks guys. "Take 2"! Maybe there will be less swearing than "take 1" Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Im having kinda the same issue, but mine is the hub. I believe the axle stem is bent. Any suggestions? street rods are driven by Chevy, but hot rods are powered by Ford!
It looks like the 2 jaws on your home made puller are bending. You need to use one like this with heat treated components where nothing flexes. After all, you don't want to ruin your axle. Well worth the money. Perhaps someone near you has one you could borrow, like the local AACA Club.
Your puller can still work. Make sure the center axis is exactly aligned with the center axis of the axle. Use heat. Tighten the puller bolt (no need for an impact gun) and then strike it sharply with a 2.5 lb sledge. Retighten. Hammer again. The impact gun will only force the puller to deform. You need to use shock while the drum is under tension. Plus heat.
Mac's has a heavy duty puller. It's well worth the money the first time you use it. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...uller-reproduction-of-k-r-wilson-abv-156.html
After spending too much time building one and still having version 3.0 fail, I picked up the phone and ordered this http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html Not only is the machining a work of art, the tool works amazingly good. Better hurry before he realizes he is selling them too cheap.
Version 2.0. Did it ! Built it way way way over kill. But hey...go big or go home. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Fu#//#^ //&*&/" dam$#/!# Just when i think things are finally going better. First 4 threads gone Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The issue on this side i should of put the nut on a few more turns. God am i pissed at myself. Looked over such a basic thing! Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The KR Wilson Fuller has a compression sleeve that goes over the shaft end to keep from messing up the threads Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Im wonder since its only the first 4 threads if it still would torque up if i fix the the start thread. Maybe go with a bit thinner hard washer behind the nut???? Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sorry that did not work for you, but there are thread tools that clamp on the good part of the threads and you spin it off to straighten the other threads. That is the only way I would do it and I think it will torque up ok. Gary
Just a different opinion, I don't know which one is correct but I think if you torque up the nut properly you will strip of the remaining threads. If you reduce the torque you will risk breaking an axle. I would look for a new axle. Charlie Stephens
Do as ROADSTER27 said. Then screw a split die backwards onto the axle and carefully "TIG WELD" the old threads with the die on the axle. Carefully file the weld down do the correct OD. Then turn the die CCW and recut those 4 threads. Of course, this would be a lot easier with the axle removed and chucked up in a lathe. Use blue loctite on the threads when reassembling along with the cotter key.Using the blue loctite may, in my opinion, allow you to tighten the nut to less than the 200 to 225 foot pounds so often recommended. I would shoot for 175. When things like this happen , I always think, "What if this were the only axle left in the world? I would have to save it."
Even with the bad first 4 threads. I still have just under a 1/2 of threads i think? I would need to do the math...but even 3/8 length of 5/8 18 threads should tighten up?? Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Usable thread length should equal AT LEAST the diameter........in this case, 5/8" +. I believe I'd look for another axle. DD
How hard is it to swap out. I never took one apart?? Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Next time do what i suggested. Put a wheel on it with all the wheel nuts a few turns on, and use the wheel like a slide hammer. I've done it on two rear ends now and the method works. No need for a proper tool. An old local hot rodder has been doing this on his roadster on and off for 15 years. No problems. I feel like you're ignoring me here.. had you not, you wouldn't have a fucked axle.
Jeez man, the very first post in the link I provided was the picture of the cap to protect the threads. And the need for it is mentioned several times in the thread as well! I'll bet you don't ignore me when I say I think I have one of those axles kicking around with good threads!
Now that's just twisting the knife! LOL. If the damaged/missing threads are not covered by the nut then the fact that they are missing should not be a problem. I recently sacrificed a 5/8 UNF die by grinding a nick in it and breaking it into 2 parts. I was then able to put it onto the good threads and wind it off the threads repairing the damaged threads as it went. This was on some perch pins but the theory is the same. As long as the remaining threads allow you to fully torque the nut (200 lbs plus) then you ought to be able to reuse what you have. But you should get a better a puller with a thread protector before pulling the hubs again. Mart.
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