Technical Death to pcv threads!

You know I love the hamb but the pcv threads seem to be the worst. I read through 100 or so pcv threads that all end with everyone begging for part #s from the guys that post positive results but can’t seem to ever tell the rest of us what part number PCV valve was used.
I just got a 63 C-10 with an SBC which is my initiation to the world of SBC’s where you can buy dress-up parts next to the air fresheners and floor mats in the chain store. Mine came with the crappy chrome air cleaner, valve covers and breathers with the big ERSON letters stamped on them. I hate to picture the day the PO bought this stuff and probably threw away the stock parts.
I want to run basic painted chevy script valve covers. So here is my solution-
Edelbrock makes an eps manifold with a breather tube on the front- part number 7003.I ground off all of the logos and a needle scaler to try and somewhat match the sand-cast texture.
I hole sawed a ¾” hole into the valley area of the intake. You’ll see where I ground off some of the casting to get a flat spot.

Then I went to the hardware store and picked up a ½” fip fitting and a 3/8” fip to ½” mip bushing- this clamps together at the intake hole. The bushing is just a plumbing fitting but I ground the hex into a circle so that it doesn’t look like a plumbing fitting.

Then I needed to make a baffle. I have seen a lot of welded plates etc but also lots of reports that they still suck oil out of the valley. I was thinking about duplicating the baffle in my olds motor which works well and is like a metal soup can stuffed with copper screen. Then I realized that the crappy chrome ERSON breather could be modified to work the same way. I cut the neck off of it and stuffed it with copper pot scrubber and welded the ½” fip fitting into it an drilled holes in the top (which will now be the bottom) so it will drain any oil it sucks in. Who says chrome won’t get you home?
It is installed with jbweld in the threads so the bushing seals it tight and will not come loose.


On the top side I screwed in a 90 degree barb and I used a Fram PV 112. . . . it has a ¼” barb on one end and a 3/8” on the other end. It runs to the base of the Holley on the front barb below the plates.

I hope this helps to end the madness and saves someone some time.

 

Looks good, I like it.

 

Guess you didn't see the threads where guy's have done exactly what your doing.

 

Nice approach on the baffle


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Thanks prewarcars4me, I didn't see the other threads too!

 

Nice attitude- yeah I wrote this up and took the photos just to waste your time.

Really-I didn't see anything but threads with plate baffles, missing part numbers and reports of oil in the intake line.

I'd love to see the same idea that is already working . . . go ahead and link it in this thread and help us all with your knowledge.

 

Good idea, but what happens when the breather stuffed with copper screen gets plugged up? Wouldn't be fun to have to pull the intake just to clean out the breather.

 

There is about 30x more intake area than the 1/4" pcv. The "soup can" in my olds 324 sat under the valley pan for 50 years before I opened it up and it still seemed to flow air. . so I figured I was following a tested design.

But yeah if it doesn't work I will have to pull the intake and re-design it.

 

I used almost exactly the same design except I made my own baffle. It doesn't suck any oil but I like your approach better. Good thinking. I may redesign mine.

 

I forgot to mention that you can't see it but the center tube is extended 1-1/2" down inside the outer shell so that the air comes in the top, down through the copper filter and then up again through the center tube- same path as the soup can style.

I also considered using an actual soup can to make a "soup can" style baffle . . . but the gutted erson breather was a good shape and size.

 

Cool idea, please post pictures of the engine together.. when the time comes.

 

Nice and tidy and old school looking.
Though, isn't it a short circuit air flow, only going from one end of the valley to the other? Whereas in 1 valve cover and out the other passes down thru the crankcase.

 

My only problem is there doesn't seem to be a path through the engine for the air to take. Unless I'm missing something, the air will just go down the oil fill tube into the valley and then just go out through the PCV valve right next to it. Most PVC systems are in different valve covers to pull the fresh air though the engine removing fumes and moisture. In the HVAC industry this is known as short cycling. The warm or cool air never reaches the spots where it is needed.

 

That's the whole idea though- to NOT vent the valve covers so you can run closed early-style covers.

It just vents the valley like a road draft system does. In through the filler tube at the front and out through the pcv at the back. Road draft systems are messy but effective, hopefully this is cleaner and also effective.

 

Just a thought instead of the breather that you fab up how about just installing one of the moroso lifter valley baffle's.

 

I would think the moroso lifter valley baffle does nothing to separate oil out of the air. There are a few threads with plate type baffles - even right up under the intake lid - but they always seem to end up reporting that they are sucking oil in with the air.

thats what I gathered anyway. . .

I have a few hundred miles on mine running a clear hose and it all looks clean so far. . . but still watching it.

 

I'll agree that the main idea is to clean up the valve covers.

And as far a venting the valley chamber, that's the way early Chevys, Buicks, and (I think) some Pontiacs did it.

 

I would think any OE road draft system would try and flow air through the entire engine. I know late flatheads and Y-block Fords used baffles to direct incoming air through the FH intake or Y-B valley pan, down into the crankcase and then up to the road draft, also located on the FH intake and Y-B valley pan. The systems look like they only work under the intake, especially the flathead, where there is only a couple of inches between the incoming air and outgoing gases.

 

Better yet, PM your Cell number. That way I can show you my set up from 10 years back

Added, See next page

 

^^^^^ Here's just one Link from my stored threads on this topic. At least this way you can't call BS that I couldn't produce. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856965

 

I am not calling bs just asking that you actually add something to the discussion if you have something to add. Let's just agree you did it first. How did you do it?

 

Yep, but what are you gonna do if there is no freaking way you want to cut the valve covers. Road draft tubes did not pull thru the valve covers.
Really all you need to do is get it vented. The swinging pistons change the volume of air inside the block, this negative, positive switching makes a lot of pumping action anyway. Cold air falls and warm air rises, so the hottest/oldest air will be closest to the baffle, and the coolest/freshest air will be furthest. Except for the air in the valve covers, that you'll have to live with and let physics do what it does.

Is it up to par with Late model OEM systems, no but its better than a road draft tube and its powered by engine vacuum and burns the crankcase vapors.

I think it's really neat to look at old pictures that show the roads, you can see the dark black centers from the road draft tubes. My dad used to tell me how bad it was riding a motorcycle, especially with the first rain drops when road draft tubes were popular

Nice job lowered the details is what makes or breaks.

 

I didn't do it first. I got the inspiration from a AMC Javelin some time in the mid 80's. The factory did what you yourself have done. I just stole a Factory idea. Like they say,"Imitation is the sincerest form of Flattery"

With that being said, If you'd like me to go away, I shall. If you a serious about how I did my "Reverse Ingineered" set up, then yes I'll share.

 

I like your "system", it's just like mine It's going to suck oil like a OIL INJECTOR!!!!! salt flats is on to some thing here. Run a valley baffle with your breather. ask me how i know!

 

Now we have a guy saying he did it just like mine ten years ago and it worked and a guy who says he did it like mine and it sucked oil like crazy. . . this is how PCV threads end up unless we get specifics about people's designs so we can figure out WHY some work and some don't.

Anyway- I showed mine and it's good so far. . . I hope it helps somebody

 

You're running an oil cap upside down, think it will fill with oil? Maybe put a drain hole in it?

 

Just curious how many miles you have run your system and have you pulled a valve cover to see what it looks like inside of them. Does it have any condensation in the covers?

 

here is a link to a thread I did not give a part number but I did give the OE application for the PCV Valve. I left the factory shelf baffle in the valley cover and simply machined a adapter to use the PCV and included plenty of drain back.
Built this for the kids Edsel project but it would work well to replace any road draft tube and install a PCV in anything.
The valve I used is a 92-97 ford truck it is threaded 3/4 fine. I cut o-ring grooves into the adapter fitting so it would be leak free.....http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=877294&highlight=pcv+conversion

 

I drilled 6 drain holes and I just used the shell of the breather- check the OP.

 

Here is how i did it & oil fill cap is vented.