Projects COE build thread - "Git r' done"

Took my COE out for a test drive today. A whopping 24 degrees outside and no heater, but I never felt cold.

The motor seems to run decent after replacing all the valve springs, but I think the timing is way off. I know the crappy chrome distributor hold down lets the distributor twist easily and I've never put a timing light on it...mostly because it is buried in a moving box somewhere.

I've had trans issues with a really quick shift from 2nd to 3rd. I unplugged my lockup wiring on my trans and discovered my shift issue is actually with that. It is locking up in 2nd gear and that dogs the truck. I thought I removed that wiring...hmmm? I may have to pull the pan and see.

I still have my brake issue where just touching the brake pedal makes the pedal almost feel like it is pulled down by itself for about 1 inch, the brakes then all grab hard for a split second then instantly, it all acts all normal. I am going to replace the booster to eliminate it as the problem. I suspect it is the internal valve that is messed up. Now if I can only remember the year of Chevy truck that I took the booster off ...?

I still hear wind noise, even at slower speeds. It comes from the upper front corners of the cab. I wish I knew what causes that.

Even with all this, it was fun to drive. I need to get a house, a garage and get back to work finishing it.

 

I forgot to mention that I talked to EVOD wheels about making me some one-off dually wheels with a really nostalgic flair. They do nice work, but I can't afford $5k a wheel. Guess I'm stuck with my current wheels.

 

I got my header panel from b-bop today. A big word of THANKS for that.

(FYI - Nothing like trying to take a picture while holding a camera in one hand, a large car part in another and being hit with 25 mph winds!)

 

your brake problem sounds more like the rear shoes are out of adjustment , never seen a dually axle or a heavy pick up truck axle self adjust like they are supposed too , my dually does the same thing when they get out of adjustment ( the self energizing brakes really kick in hard when they grab if there is too much clearance ) , it will lock the tires up at slow speeds , they do not like lots of clearance they have to be set tight . also the fine rust from sitting doesn't help it either . the adjusters work when you back the truck up and apply the brake . when they work .... and when you buy shoes you have to make sure they are chamfered on the edges , if they are not it also causes the shoes to grab hard , and most of the cheap shoes I have seen are not done this way

 

I rebuilt the rear brakes and adjusted them. The shoes are not new, but are the used ones from the rear end (they were I good shape) so the edges are not sharp. Anyway, it is the fronts that feel like they grab hard.

I really suspect the booster got dropped and something inside is wrong with the valve timing. I bought a new booster to simply replace it and eliminate it as the cause.

With that in mind, I removed my old booster today and discovered I was young and dumb when I put this together. I modified the booster shaft to fit a rod end I had in the shop.

I don't want to repeat the modification, so I bought a new rod end that fits the new booster...which causes new problems. The shaft is now longer, so I will need to spacer the booster back 1". The real issue is the hole on the new rod end is smaller that the first design. 10mm on the rod end and 1/2" on the brake pedal. I suspect I will have to remove the pedal, drill it out and install a bushing to run a 10 mm bolt...unless someone has a much better idea. I tried drilling out the rod end, but that's not going to happen with the hardened metal.


Addition - I bought a small bronze bushing, 1/2" od x 3/8" id for a whopping $2. I tapped it into a small hole drilled into a block of wood. I ran a drill through the center while also holding onto it with a pair of pliers to remove .020". I then ran the metric bolt through the middle, and chucked the end of the bolt into my hand drill. I filed on the outside while spinning until it fit snug into my brake pedal. So after 30 minutes of fitting, it will now connect to my pedal snug as a bug...now I need to make some king of 1" tall spacers.

This would be a heck of a lot easier if all my tools weren't in storage!!!

 

It was a bad booster. The weird thing is, now the brake pedal does not come up by itself. I guess I need a return spring.

EDIT - After thinking about it all evening, I decided to pull the new booster back off and take it back to the store to replace it. The brakes just did not feel nearly as responsive as they did before and the pedal staying down really bothered me. I also wonder if the booster rod is the wrong length?

Is there an easy way to test it? The rod length is non-adjustable.

 

It is the first "un-official" car cruise of the year...I drove my COE to the parts store and followed a very cool 46 Ford sedan into the parking lot. I guess hotrod season is here! Too bad I didn't think to take a picture...(sorry Bill).

Best of all, my brakes finally work and feel right...yeah!

 

Did the new booster to replace other "new booster" take care of issue?

Earl

 

About 2 weeks ago I picked up a nice 56 ford c-600 a little ways south of Ottawa. That's in your part of the country.

 

Yep, you should have stopped in for a beer...!

Yes the brake issue is finally corrected. The booster internal timing was messed up as I suspected. Now I can stop on a dime and give back .02 cents change!

Back on to actually finishing things...I think I'll take lots of pictures and post them each day so I appear to be just as fast as Sander. Guess that means I can start posting pics in a few years.

 

Good luck with that!!!!


I'm suspicious that CorvetteSander actually has a full crew working around the clock on his truck!!

 

your free to stop by and check it out for your self......

 

I ordered a new stereo head for my COE today. Bluetooth for hands free phone calls, DVD for watching American Graffiti (at boring car shows) and best of all a rear view camera hookup, since backing up this truck into dark garages is difficult. (Guess I ought to thank my wife for all her shopping, since I paid for it from her credit card points...should I tell her?)



I also want to thank Blue for sending me a jar of "Mesquite Bean Jelly". (Texas payback for the KC style BBQ sauce I sent him) He told me to spread it on grilled armadillo toast...but I'm having a heck of a time finding that recipe...! Thanks BLUE!

 

Your welcome . First you have to catch a live armadillo , then you .......

 

I want to move my rear axle forward about 8 inches. To do so, I first need to rebuild the back panel (facing the rear tires) on my boxes to make room for the spring hangers. I call this "Origami 101 for hot-rodder's". The numbers list the order of the bends, and three of them need to be done by hand...ugh.

I made a lot of progress on them today...I actually bought the sheet metal. (Hey, that counts as forward movement right?!!!)

When I get the boxes off and start cutting, I will take pictures that will better explain why and what.

 

Hi Mike
I have to ask, WHY !!!!!!

Seeya
Bill

 

It looks way out of balance with the axle in it's current position. Too much space between the box and tires and no decent way to put mud flaps on it that looks right and don't interfere with the taillights.

Logic say's leave it alone and live with it, It works just fine and it's done. But, whenever I build things and use the "it's just fine the way it is" axiom, I live afterwards with the agony of wishing I had done what I really wanted. So, unless I figure out another solution, I will need to move the axle forward.

In the mean time, I needed to fix the back of the boxes anyway and I thought, why not make a provision to move the spring hangers forward at the same time.

 

Question for someone...can I weld up the holes on my frame after I move my rear spring brackets or will that do structural damage to the frame? I planned on using my 110v wire welder and welding on the inside of the hole from bottom to top, using a copper spoon on the inside of the frame.

 

Mike , will the holes show ? Because you could always put a plate on inside of frame and bolt them to frame in old spot as well as new if you don't want to weld . I have lots of welding on my frame to gm specs .

 

I would leave the holes alone, there are lots of holes in a truck chassis that are not used so will a few more make any difference, if you don't like the holes then put a short bolt in them as if they serve a purpose.

Seeya
Bill

 

Brake pedal return spring is on and it only took me 4 hours to install it ... dang!

 

As far as I know, you only have to worry about welding on hydro-formed frames. I know the 1997 and later Ford frames were hydro-formed. Not sure when GM and Dodge started doing it. What year frame is yours?

 

1941

 

Just a thought, but how about building boxes behind the rear axle to visually close the area in? This would reduce the wheel base (to the human eye) and balance the heavy front end a little better.

Cut up some cardboard and paint it black, then stick it on the side for a visual. Personally, I'd give the bottom a slight radius that curves upward as it progresses rearward. Not all the way up to meet the deck, just enough to give it some charecter and maintain a good departure angle.

My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

I've hung so much cardboard off that truck that it's not funny anymore. I have thought about mounting widened teardrop style fenders on it. Never found any with a big enough wheel opening.

 

Anyone here know anything about 1 DIN radios with motorized fold out screens? I am working on a plan for my COE dash that would allow me to mount a motorized screen type radio in the dash. The radio would work for music of course, but also provide me Bluetooth hands free calling, a back up camera and as a huge bonus...a navigation unit. I can't use a 2 DIN unit as there is simply not enough room behind the dash.

I am down to four choices and need some input on brands and reliability. The units I am considering are: BOSS BV9969NV, DUAL XDVD9131, PYLE PLBT72G and JENSEN VM9216BT. The Jensen requires a separate module for the navigation and that is an additional $160 minimum.

I could really use some expertise and real work knowledge with this.


(not drawn to scale)

 

Finished bending the new rear panels...next step is to bead roll a step into the outer edge to create the door gap between the storage box doors and the 4" wide sail panel. After that I get to annoy my neighbors as I cut out the old panel from the boxes.

 

Nice looking pieces, what did you use to bend them? I've got a cheap leaf brake, wish I had sprung for a box & pan brake.
I just bought a new car with a back-up camera on it, got to have one on the truck now. I want mine on all the time so I can use it in place of an inside mirror.

 

I made the first bends on a massive leaf brake. 12' long and capable of bending 1/4" steel. Must have weighed 2 tons. The last inner bends I paid to get done on a hydraulic production type press brake. Another massive piece of equipment. Neither is good for the home builder. Too large.

COE bed is cleaned off, Large tools are dug out of the corners, I have space to work and I am ready to lift the bed with the engine hoist...now, where did I put the pump handle when we moved?

This is why Sander can get his done overnight, he doesn't have to open 12 thousand moving boxes to look for stuff.

 

A friend has a Kenwood unit in a VW Jetta that does just what you're looking for.

Not sure if it's a 1 DIN. They've got many versions of it.

The gps part of it is great.