64 falcon Mini Tubs

I am looking to put mini tubs in my 64 falcon, I all ready installed subframe connectors, a leaf spring re- locator kit, I am install a fuel cell, but having a problem finding the easiest way to go about the wheel tubs.
ANY suggestions would help

 

Usually easier to carefully cut out the stock tubs and then just move them in. Then put a filler strip in to take up the gap. Should be pretty easy if you make the top cut on the flat area and leave as much metal as possible. You basically want to just move the vertical part of the tub in, and leave the rounded edge on it to weld to. Of course you'll have to cut the trunk hinge support off also, and then reattach to the new filler.
Heree's a link to a good tech write up that will give you tips. It's on a Satellite, but it all applies to any car.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0903_diy_mini_tubbing_guide/

 

You can also gain some room by flattening or squaring the bottom rear part of the original tub!! ROY.

 

I did my Ranchero many years ago - I didn't have to deal with the trunk hinges, but otherwise I think they are the same.






I also pie cut the rear half of the frame rails and pinched them in to square them up - they kick out behind the axle. 235 60 14s were rubbing inside and out and now 295 50 15 fit nicely!

 

Thank you very much. I guess i will do it that way.
Russ

 

Not sure i follow you on that. Can you tell me more.
Russ

 

The stock unibody frame rails offset wider at the rear edge of the inner wheelwell. If you want to run a wider tire you might end up with the corner touching, so it needs to be moved in a bit. I'm not sure if my '63.5 Falcon is quite the same offset as a '64, but mine steps out a small amount.

 

you did not move your frames rails did you

 

Sorry, I don't check in as often as I should.

Correct, I didn't actually move the whole frame rail. The majority of extra room came from moving the leaf spring inboard. More room was required for the 295/50/15s, but only at the rear - after the axle. Visualize the frame rail as you would look up at it from a creeper: The frame rail runs straight back from the Torque box at the front spring eye to, about where the axle center line is - then it kicks out behind the axle center line at a slight angle towards the 1/4 panel, then straightens out again just before the rear bumper mounts.

Instead of cutting out all the spot welds and moving the entire frame rail inboard, I simply removed material at the top and bottom of the frame rail in a pie shape. I only needed about 13" in length starting at the axle center line from 0" or cutting disc width to just over an inch in width removed 13" back from the axle center line. I then heated the outboard frame side rail at the rear or wide portion of the pie cut and used a simple bar clamp to pull the offending rail in towards the center of the car and welded it up. All of this was done with the wheel tubs removed. I also moved the axle snubbers to the inside of the frame rail at the axle center line and removed the small portion of floor that used to be between the outer edge of the frame rail and the inner edge of the wheel tub.

I hope this helps you to better get an idea of what I did - I wish the pics that I had taken from the underside weren't so dark.

It was lots of work, but I did gain about 2.5" per side and it still looks pretty stock. It likely would have been easier to just back half it with a 4 link and coil overs plus barrel tubs, but not the look I wanted.

 

Thank you so much
I already got the half for wheel wells out this past weekend, came out clean.
Next step is welding in the strip.
Thanks ALL

 

1971BB427. Nice explorer rear swap.