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54 International Pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fatblock6, Jan 15, 2014.

  1. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    So I'm thinking of running a hot small block Chevy. Maybe dropping it a little lower. Not sure to go independent or old school straight axle. Also think I would like to go 4 or 5 speed but auto would be easier just not sure I wanna give up the stick. Any thoughts

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  2. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    What would be the best way to lower this international say three inches front and back keeping the straight axle. Also I saw that mid fifties makes a power steering box and hose set up for the f100. Do you guys know if that could be adapted to my international
    Thanks

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  3. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    I am gonna run a 350 small block with a T5 trans. Lower it down a bit and drive the wheels off of it. At least that's the plan. But thanks for the advise

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  4. F.O.G
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 259

    F.O.G
    Member
    from Pacific,Mo

    IH 345 or 392 with torqueflite gets my vote. I owned a 345 Scout with 3.73 gears and
    it would get 17 mpg all day long at 60 mph. I owned a 1972 Travelall with a 392that would get a
    solid 11 mpg downhill with a tailwind. As stated they like to stay under 4400 RPM, heed that
    and they are bulletproof... and expensive to build. Do like my buddy and swap in the eng,
    trans AND transfer case into his 2wd ,56 Int'l pickup with a 3.08 rear gear, he would
    shove it into low range and have an instant 6.17 final drive! Lots of shits and grins on
    cruise nights. With all the torque from the 345 he did break a few rear ends in Low Range.
     
  5. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    What's the best way to lower this pickup a couple of inches front and back. I could always put a big block chevy in it that should lower the front.

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  6. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    So things are moving along slowly. Shipping of the truck is going slower than I hoped. I am picking up my small block this weekend along with the S10 T5. I already have the T5 out of the F body. Will box the frame shortly after the truck gets here but stil would like some thoughts on lowering this truck a couple of inches and still keep the straight axle. Some ideas would be awesome.

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  7. F.O.G
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 259

    F.O.G
    Member
    from Pacific,Mo

    No need to box the frame on a Int'l.
     
  8. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Do you have one without a boxed frame

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  9. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    Member

    Boxing the frame would only be necessary if the suspension is replaced with an IFS or IRS. Actually, ladder frames are designed to flex with a beam axle.
    The small block probably weighs less than the original silver diamond 6, so no need to box it for that reason either.

    I didn't technically lower mine, but just put smaller tires on the front, to give it a 1" drop compared to the back. Possible to remove every other leaf to lower it, but that softens the ride, maybe to the point it's too soft. Could always do the drop axle by someone who knows how to correctly do it (something I would have done professionally, so that I can trust it'll drive right).
     
  10. The small block chevy choice is a good one. [for me] and I agree the frame on an IHC pickup doesn't need to be boxed. The rear axle ratio will prolly be ok with the T-5 transmission. Sounds like a fun project!
    I think I'd be looking really hard at mustang-style front suspensions if it was my truck. Yeah, I know they're not traditional but this is the "Traditionally "styled" hot Rods and customs" forum and it would make that 'binder a lot more drive able, plus no hassles with an intrusive steering gear box.
     
  11. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Do you guys think a front mount on the motor and the rear trans mount are enuff. Or should I figure out how to work out the regular side motor mounts instead of the front mount. I'm thinking of running the three deuce set up on the small block just for that cool old look. Gonna completly rebuild the front end just to help it with drivability. Like I said I would like to lower it about three inches or so. I have a spring shop close by maybe they could make me up some new springs that will get the job done. Will post some pictures once it arrives. Keep the info coming. Thanks again for all the help

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  12. joseph.peter.carter@us.ar
    Joined: Sep 27, 2008
    Posts: 83

    [email protected]
    Member
    from USA

    [​IMG]

    After rebuilding and owning the pictured International, I would stay away from the 345 motor. I found it to be very heavy and very hard on fuel. Yea, it is a torque motor, but try finding parts for it when you are stuck along side of the road. The best I ever obtain was 14 MPG and that is after a real tight, by the machine tune up. I always had a problem with the right side exhaust manifold cracking, on this motor. I would go with a Dodge Hemi motor, with FI and auto, something you can obtain parts for and depend on. If you want a "hot rod" truck, I would install a 454 Chevy motor, which will earn you around 9 MPG, but the appeal of those big chrome valve covers would be worth it.
     
  13. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    I'm sticking with the small block. I think the small block will keep so much weight off of the front end. I am a big block guy but for this application I think the small block is the way to go. Quick to rev up and 80-100 lbs lighter than its big brother. Hell I could always put aluminum heads on the small block to make it alot lighter. The small block I'm running has almost 400 HP. That should move that pickup along nicely.

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  14. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Do you guys suggest boxing the frame rails from the firewall forward for that small block transplant? Any pictures or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

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  15. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Well truck is finally in transit. Should see it Friday. Here are some pictures before pickup 1392772283168.jpg 1392772313511.jpg 1392772346990.jpg

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  16. 32bizcoupe
    Joined: Nov 11, 2013
    Posts: 11

    32bizcoupe
    Member

    Nice this is my 55 r100,
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1392873843.783258.jpg


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  17. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    That's a real nice looking truck. Did you restore it?

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  18. 32bizcoupe
    Joined: Nov 11, 2013
    Posts: 11

    32bizcoupe
    Member

    I did a little work but it was mostly done when I got it. I'm now working on a 52.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1392909729.288632.jpg


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  19. I'd like to try out an LS GM motor (4.8, 5.3, or 6.0) in a build someday. I've seen them make impressive power, and the motors are reasonably easy to find in the boneyard. Might be something for you to look into?
     
  20. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Going to try and keep it old school hot rod. Old small block with three deuces but with a 5 speed. Straight front axle. Maybe old Cadillac steering wheel from the 50s

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  21. Sounds cool. My friend and I are fixing up a 56 International 1-ton.
     
  22. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Has anybody put an aftermarket steering column in one. Saw flaming river makes a tilt one. I think a tilt column an a 53 caddy steering wheel would be a cool look. I know with the small block the steering shaft is close.

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  23. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Well the truck came this morning. It looks pretty nice for what it is. Then I tried a little CLR on it and things got real interesting. Here are some pictures boy I can't wait to get started. Check out the pics. 1393084732126.jpg

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  24. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    1393084785238.jpg

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  25. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    The passenger door came out decent 1393172876443.jpg
     

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  26. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Do any of you guys know of any torque trust wheels or steely wheels with 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. Looking for 6 or 7 inch for the front but the kicker is it can only have a 2.75 backspacing. The backs are no problem probably gonna run 8 inch wide back there. I need the 2.75 backspacing up front to clear the steering joint on the spindle. Any ideas on wheels
     
  27. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Worked on the truck a little this morning. I think it is coming out good for what it was before I started. Here are some pictures

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  28. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    That CLR works like crazy

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  29. fatblock6
    Joined: Oct 28, 2013
    Posts: 58

    fatblock6
    Member

    Couple more shots from today

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  30. 32bizcoupe
    Joined: Nov 11, 2013
    Posts: 11

    32bizcoupe
    Member

    Are you using a 4-1 water to clr mix? And rubbing with a scotchbrite pad?
    Looking good


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