I forgot about updating the ignition, if you convert to 12 volt. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here come the dumb questions! I just tried starting her and she turned over and ran for a second but it's a bit cold outside right now. I noticed on the steering column there is a lever that looks like it advances the timing? Not sure what the other lever does yet. On the floor is the starter switch, gas pedal and what does the other floor lever do? It looks like a choke handle under the passenger side dash. Any help is appreciated.
On the column, one retards the timing and the other is throttle. One lever on the floor is the starter and the other is a foot rest. Check out youtube for starting. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Make sure your fuel shut-off is in the open position (the lever mounted under the cowl above the choke). The right lever on the column is your hand-throttle, the left one is your spark advance. The knob in the passenger side foot well is choke (push-pull) and mixture (turn, clockwise is lean, counter clockwise is rich). As far as hop-ups for the banger, search for the monthly banger meet thread on here. Lots of ways and opinions on how to get the most out of it. I kept mine simple. High-comp head, Stromberg downdraft carb (gets rid of having to adjust mixture), and a '32-4 distributor (has automatic advance), makes for a nice enjoyable 'round-town motor. Next I'm putting a cam in it and playing with carb settings to squeeze just a bit more out of mine, since I can't leave shit alone... Posted using my Lil' Orphan Annie Secret Society Decoder Pin
Nice little coupe you got there. I really like the ideas you have for it. Not every coupe needs a chop and it looks like your interior is fairly new as well. Just drop that sucker and drive it.
Rainierhooker, Where did you get your high compression head and is it a 6:1? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Mine is an original 'B' Police head that was further shaved about .030 I figure it's sitting at about 5.5:1-ish maybe a little more. Posted using my Lil' Orphan Annie Secret Society Decoder Pin
I am late to this party but HRP is correct. If you must you can cut it up at a later date. I would make it a challange to come up with a way(s) to get the car as low as possible using as many A parts as you can. Big/little tires, dropped axle, flattened crossmembers, etc. -- all the old hot rod tricks.
dropped axle in front and big and littles of course but do you mean flatten the rear crossmember and add a model T spring? What is a good year for steel wheels of the hot rod era?
You don't flatten the rear crossmember for a T spring. The crossmembers are almost identical in shape from T to A, about as easy a swap as you will find anywhere. The T spring alone will drop it about an inch to an inch-and-a-half. If you reverse the eyes, you'll get about another inch. Steel wheels won't properly mount to Model A drums. The early drums have a ring to support the hub on a wire wheel, which will interfere with the face on a steelie. If you go to juice brakes, with the accompanying hubs/drums, this isn't a problem. IMHO, the best steel wheels for 'the look' are '40-48 Ford or Merc steelies, what are usually refered to as "gennies" in the repop world...
thats a sweet coupe you've got, mine looked about as good, till i took it apart! 7 years later its on the road. 350/700r combo i put in it, and its a lot of fun thats for sure, and i'm sure you'll have fun with yours too. also, without a chop i still have to lean down to see when the light has tuned green. i wouldn't chop it, plus it's just been done too much these days.(to my thinking anyway)
I can't seem to find it now, but there's a pic I saw on the HAMB recently that showed where a guy cut the ends off of 2 stock exhaust manifolds and capped the ends to make a sweet set of split manifolds, then cut the intake to flip the carb mount for a down draft. Looks like something a guy could do with all stock parts in a day if you're looking for hop-up ideas that don't cost much money.
The pedal, yes. But you will need to come up with a way to attach it to a master cylinder. There are many ways to skin that cat, but by far the easiest would be the kit sold by Cling's: www.clingsaftermarket.com Or you could fab up your own version of what they sell. I'm running with mechanicals (hide your wives and daughters) so take my advice concerning brakes with a grain if salt. Posted using my Lil' Orphan Annie Secret Society Decoder Pin
To my knowledge the backing plates from the cars are the same for light trucks. I'm using '46 truck brakes. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You can use '39-'48. '40-'48 are more common, because the bolt pattern is a 5.5X5. '39 is 4.5X5. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Snyder's makes a 6:1 head. Only bummer is it looks completely stock. But the price is pretty good for a head that performs very well.
I use mechanical brakes in my Deuce truck with the Flathead Ted's floater kit. I love it. I can lock up the wheels if I want. Can't ask for more than that. Takes less than half a day to install it and set it all up. I'd recommend the kit anyday. However if you decide to switch to hydraulic brakes, this might be helpful for the master cylinder... http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/5360
Ok one more brake option that bolts on to 39-48 spindles. 1953-56 ford F-100 pick-up fronts. They bolt on ,are full float ,the wright bolt pattern for the genni wheels, and parts are available at most auto parts stores (napa) .Next best thing to disc brakes.
Gas or throttle is on the right lever, spark or timing on the left. Another neat thing is you can grab the gear shift lever, simply lift up, like you are pulling it out of the floor and then you can move the shift lever out of the way. Henry did that so 3 people could sit in the seat. When you need to shift , just move the shift lever into position and it will drop right in place. Since you used top gear for speeds from 15 to 50 mph that was no need to do a lot of shifting.
what the hell is the reason for gas / throttle lever? That shifter idea is cool!!! I think it isn't running right because of leaky intake.