(attn mopar guys) 5 speed options?

Hi guys my 51 coronet has a 1972 Plymouth 360 in it with a 3 speed auto trans what r some options for 5 speed trans that will bolt up with out to many mods one that I could find at a salvage yard thanks for any info u guys can give

 

Look for the whole trans setup from a Dodge Dakota. Anything from a V6 or V8 will work. Dakota's use an hydraulic clutch setup and that can also be adapted to your car as well. Your 360 will need a specific 360 flywheel, or you have to get the flywheel balanced for your 360.

Your still going to have to mount a clutch pedal and cut the hole for the shifter. 5 speed shifters come out if the top of the trans, at the front end tail shaft.

The 5 speeds are not as tough as the old 833's were, so I wouldn't plan on beating on it as hard as a guy might beat on the old 4 speeds. Gene

 

The AX15 shifter is right about 23" from the block.
They have two styles of throw out ass'y; external slave and hyd bearing.

Although fairly durable, as Gene says, they are not like A833.

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Sweet thanks guys yea I don't beat on it she's a cruzer r the ones behind the v8 and v6's have different gear ratios?

 

Nope, one size fits all...3.83, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79

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what year dakotas are needed for the easiest transplant?

 

1986 to 1994? in the Dak, the Jeep might have started in 1985.

some additional info:
http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=69

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Been ultra happy with my Tremac tko behind the 360 for almost ten years now.

 

If you get one out of a 2000-2001 2wd Dakota you get the NV3500. It will take a lot more HP than the AX15, and still bolts rite up.

 

Does the t5 out of a s 10 bolt up to a dodge Dakota bell housing? When using a t5 do you use a mopar clutch set up or t5. I want to put one behind a 360 in my 37 dodge truck. I thought about a ax15 but been driving one in my jeep for 8 years, and would like a smoother shift, if not that much more work.

 

The t5 does not 'bolt-up' to any Mopar bell. Besides the obvious bolt pattern differences, the bearing retainer will be different and, most important, the length of the input shaft is shorter on the 'brand-x' units.
If you insist on using a gm/ford trans then be prepared for the cost of either an adapter or an Ultra-bell.

If your existing trans is not very 'smooth' then perhaps it needs some attention. I have driven many AX15 and never had any complaints, but, perhaps it is a matter of perception; a friend with a late model corvette thinks that all of my old Mopar junk is really primitive. Go figure.

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Got a 5spd out of a Dakota, do I nee to get a adapter to for the shaft to go to the pilot bearing. What kind of piolt bearing?

 

I'm in the process of mocking up my chopped '53 Willys wagon. I've got a '78 318 in a (shortened) '98 Dakota chassis with the NV3500 trans. I saved the firewall and floor boards from the Dakota so I could blend it in and use the factory pedal mounts and trans hump.
I read somewhere that you might have to cut off about 3/16" from the end of the pilot shaft so the trans will go deep enough into the crank. Use a cut-off wheel and file a slight bevel on the end. I didn't have to on mine.

 

Just use the pilot bearing for a Dakota, the kind that fits into the torque converter snout on the crank.

 

The tranny is already bolted to the motor (1979 360 out of a motor home), with no clutch just mock up. It bolted together just fine, but haven't looked to see if it goes far enough in.

 

The AX15 in my heavily modified Jeep, with a seriously warmed-up six, has been beaten soundly, for almost 200,000 miles. It is just now getting a little noisy, and a little harder to shift. It has never had anything but fluid changes.

 

The AX-15 is a good box and bolts up to any 62 onwards small block mopar (273 to 360) - its almost a no brainer as its a factory option. great conversion for us older farts looking to update our older engines. While the NV3500 is a later option the price of a AX 15 makes it an economical conversion plus its all self contained with slave unit and throw out arm already mounted - all you need is a hydraulic line and a master cylinder on the firewall and your OK to go

 

I offered my .02 a year or two ago with this deal, but it was glossed over pretty quickly.

For the last ten years, my avatar '48 has had a nice humpy, aluminum headed 360 followed closely by a Tremec TKO 500. The "magic to make this happen is very simple, Mcleod makes a scattershield/bell housing that puts a GM pattern trans right on to the back of a Chrysler LA type engine. It was a very simple deal to do, the flywheel and clutch came from Centerforce, and the hydraulic T/O came from Quarter Master. That's it, bolt it together.

It is a much tougher trans than the NVT for high performance use, it shifts much quicker, has more usable ratios for hot rod use, ( 3.27 first vs. 3.83) and the rest are much closer so your RPM drop is much less between gears. There is any number of shift position combinations too. It's over drive is a much steeper .068, too.

It was a hell of a lot more expensive to do it this way, but I wanted the best I could have, and what I have ended up with is something that has proven itself to be almost completely indestructible under any circumstances. At the time of the car's last major accident that proceeded it's current rebuild, this combo had in excess of 100,000 miles of extremely hard beating on it, and when I pulled it all apart for a look see it looks to have another 100,000 miles left.

 

You weren't being completely ignored...it is a dollar thing.
A good used AX15 can be had for about $250 and still have plenty of life left for the average daily driver. Hell, I've paid more for some clutch parts than that! I have bought complete 2wd Dak trucks for as little as $400 and then sold excess parts to cover new stock clutch pieces on a project.
As Gimpy notes, they are pretty tough and I'm sorta happy that they are not as popular as some others so the prices stay low and availability remains decent.

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Ram 1500's use the NV3500 too. 1994 to about 2000. I have a 95 with one. Good smooth shifter, don't know how strong they are.

 

I paid $400 for my rust free 95 Dakota built a trailer sold some parts, broke even. I also got a flywheel I did not have from the same truck.

 

I'll bite.... how much do you think the Tremac/ adapters etc. cost to get it up and running? Sometimes the cheapest route isn't always the best...

 

I have a new Tremec going into 'Endlessearth's' truck tomorrow that with a mid shifter cost 2600.00. The scattershield was right at 200.00 ten years ago, the Flywheel about 250.00, and the clutch is a Centerforce dual friction unit that is running about 400.00 these days. Absolutely expensive, but it has done stuff that I wouldn't have even tried with a stock based trans consistently for a decade with well over 400hp ahead of it.

 

Like I said I know have fifty FREE into my setup, that beats the heck out of $3450. Some of us are trying to do this on a working mans salary. If I had deep pockets I would put a TKO into it, but back to reality for me. Thanks for the input.

 

I paid $350 for the '98 Dakota I cut up. Used the complete chassis, driveline, and floor pans. Sold parts for $350. Also sold the Willys chassis and driveline for $300. Now I've got $250 for misc. parts!

 

If you are satisfied with a stock trans with some wide ratios, then maybe that is better. I wasn't, and I can't be. The title of the thread wasn't Mopar 5 speed the cheapest way, it was Mopar five speed options. Mine is a very viable option for something that is indestructible and flat works tailored to MY needs. And, before I am promoted to deep pockets, dick swinging "Street Rodder" if you must know, I took a "home improvement" loan on my home back in the day to be able to afford the drive train in my car.
This was after ten years of breaking the "affordable options" that I kept trying as I daily drove and street raced the car... My ONLY transportation for almost two decades, by the way.

The post script to be told on this deal, is that when I decided to do this deal I was working a job that required me to put almost 400 miles per day on the car for about half the year. The other half was spent in Washington state running up and down the coast throughout the summer months. Within the first year, just on fuel savings alone, I more than paid for the trans conversion. Best argument for a five speed EVER.

 

I will have to post up my thoughts after we road test the heck out of that truck and then again when I haul a load of hay and grain with it and then again when I run it down the drag strip because that Tremec is going to be doing some work.

 

Thanks...I appreciate the candor of your reply. While we all like to horsetrade and scrape to build our projects, I find that after they are daily drivers we need those parts yesterday. Even lots of junkyard trannies are getting well up into that $1800 range, so this really isn't as pricey as it appears at first blush. Good to know how the apples to oranges comparison really works.

 

Are you using linkage, slave cylinder or hydraulic TO bearing with this setup? Just noticed that was one thing you didn't include in the cost comparison....

 

Oh, sorry! I went with a hydraulic T/O from a company called Quarter Master up in the Chicago area. I read all sorts of negative things here about hydraulic T/Os, but I have NEVER had a moments issue with mine in all of those miles. Matter of fact, the only thing that ever has given me trouble has been the Centerforce clutch. I was in China Town in San Francisco with Judy in 2006 on the way up to Washington and parked in a subterranean parking garage with out thinking what the exit ramp would be like. Upon leaving, I found that the angle it met the street at was so sharp that my car hung it's skid plate/frame rails on it's angle, and I burned the clutch up trying to extricate myself from that mess. Still drove the car all the way up to Illwaco, Washington to a friends shop though. I never bothered to tell Judy just how bad off we were. Lots of clutch less shifting for about what, 500 miles or so? It didn't even phase the Tremec. With all the abuse I heap on this thing, when I drained the fluid a year or so ago to pull stuff apart I was convinced that I would have Metallic looking fluid and debris to deal with.... Nope, it all looked like the day it was born.