I am somewhat embarrassed to admit this, but I am not totally sure how to progress in channeling my Model A coupe on to my frame. I actually did a job like this "back in the day" when I was in my teens. I really don't remember how I did it. I probably didn't do it in a workman like way, but It worked. I drove that car for a lot of years. I realize that I will need to cut out the sub frame supports. And if I do that without enough temporary support I will end up with a pile of metal. Has anyone done this recently enough to give me some guidence ? I am only intending to channel it the width of the frame. around 4". Any help will be much appreciated.
I've never channeled a car but I did a search and came up with these. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124153&highlight=girlfriend http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=849531&highlight=channeling+model
I saw this in an old magazine, don't know which one.. Start by removing the firewall and front toe board feet.. Drill holes on frame down through the mounting holes through the bottom of the frame.. Remove the center and rear cross members.. Squeeze the rear of the frame together enough to get it through the firewall and push it to where the newly drilled holes match the holes on the subrails.. Reinstall the cross members and bolt the frame to the subrails.. I'm sure there are more steps and I've never done this but it sure sounds interesting....
Hopefully this makes sense, I will try to dig up some pictures but I don't have any on my phone. What I did was brave the body across the doors and across the body. Cut out the floor and subframe with the exception of the longitudinal area attached to the door sills. I cut a couple 2x4s to a length at least 6" longer than the widest point of the body. I then C clamped the 2x4s going across the bottom of the frame in even intervals from the cowl to the rear of the frame. I set the body over the frame and let the bottom edges of the body rest on the 2x4s. Use string to measure diagonally in several locations to get the body absolutely dead centered on the frame. I took some 1x2 tubing to run across each frame rail over the body mount holes. Drill holes and secure the tubing to the frame. Now cut some tubing to connect the cross tubing to the longitudinal subframe rails. Use 1x1 tubing to connect the cross rails and strengthen the structure. You can then form sheet metal to cover the frame work and your good to go! Hopefully that wasn't too confusing Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Wow, a lot of really good information. I should have done a search before I asked, I can see that now. But I am very impressed with the build links. I have a much better idea now how to procede. As I remember the model A I did in my youth had no subframe. I paid $10.00 for it and another $2.00 for the frame. I think I used bed rail angle iron and ready bolts to hang the rear section. My "allowance" was $5.00 a week, money made by coming to work a 1/2 hour early and staying 1/2 hour late. Somehow, it ran and drove. Thanks for the help, I will try to do this one a bit better.
Here are a few showing in progress. I did pinch the rear of the frame some. I used what was left of the subrails to plug weld this to. then trimed the left over off from under side. The Wizzard
My advice would be to find one with the amount of channeling that you intend and ride in it. It would be terrible not to be able to enjoy driving the car after it was finished. Charlie Stephens
Another option is to get the seat you plan to use and put a 3"-4"-5" or 6" spacer under it and sit down, close the door. The Wizzard
Ok, I have jumped in with both feet. I braced the body in several places and then cut out the cross members in the sub-frame. From the measurements I get it looks like a heavy cut at the front of the subframe, almost to the sheetmetal. Then ,as it gets toward the middle, almost all of the sub frame side can stay. And then toward the back it needs about half of the sub rail cut back. Does this sound about right?
Sounds about right. It's been a while since I did the job. When I get to my other computer tomorrow I can find some more photos for you and I'll take some measurements on the body if you like. I believe at the fire wall it's about 1/2" and the back depends on where you pinch the frame. I can also get you some photos and measurements off the actual frame rails. I have a small section of the piece I made to do the actual channel. If you would like I can take a photo of it and measurements also. The Wizzard
here ya go . no need for cutting everything apart i did it with a stock subframe.only difference will be under the trunk . http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=706151&highlight=channel
Thanks everyone. Flop, I followed your build to the end, very nice work! I makes me rethink some of my upcoming decisions on how to do the new subframe. I am impressed with your metal work too. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Sorry for the delay. You may be past this point. From the Cowell edge to the inside edge at the Frame is 1-1/4". My frame is pinched at the 35" wide point and the rear crossmember is narrowed to let the body drop over. The other photo is of what I folded up out of 10 gauge and runs the full length of the Body. I drilled 3/8" holes 2" apart and plug welded it to the top of what was left of my subrails. The short vertical is 3/4" tall, the flat surface that sits on the subrails is 1-1/2" wide, The vertical wall is 4-1/2" or the amount of drop you want and a flat horozontal surface to go on top of my new cross rails. Where I could not plug weld from top side due to Quarter panels I drilled and welded from under side. The Wizzard
Thank you Mr. Wizzard! That looks pretty close to the approach that I had been thinking about. It is very helpful to see that someone else has done the same. At this point I have my body setting on the frame with about a 4" channel. It looks good to me. So now I will be fabbing up some mounts and then new floors. Lanny
When I first got into this "Internet Hot Rodding" I posted a question on Fordbarn about channeling.BIG mistake.I thought the Restorers Club Of America was gonna burn my house down! Lots of very negative feedback. Fortunately one guy said"Get on the HAMB if you're one of THOSE guys". I did, and lived happily ever after. Good Luck. Mike from Mass.
The simplistic explanation I have is run a brace door frame to door frame one behind the door the other in front, put these in roughly the distance away from the frame that you want it channeled. Then cut the floor out enough to clear going down around frame. also cut the bottom of the firewall the amount needed. then set it on the braces and see if the height works. Then start building a floor, I like to use hat channel as a base but most home builders use 3/4-1" square tube. There is more than that but that should give you an idea on how to get to a good point.
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