Technical Need advice on cracked block

Exactly
In this case it is not

 

Thanks for all the info guys.

I - like anyone else - would love a hotrod. But realistically for me the only reason I was pursuing it was because I had this old engine of my father's. If I cannot find a reasonable way to fix it I am afraid the project is over.....

Anyone have advice on what this complete engine with good cleaned heads and crank (and cracked block) might be worth?

 

FYI, There is a .060 over, 348 short block on ebay for $750.00 in Ohio.

 

Hello seb fontana, is Eutectic still in business? I always liked their welding rods. If they are still around I would highly recommend a rod made by them called "Xyron". It is a cast iron rod that flows like butter and has incredible strength!

 

This is a common crack on the 348/409, and welding is the common fix. Get it fixed by someone experienced in welding cast iron and be on your merry way. The $2000-3000 price you were quoted was out of bounds.

409 blocks, even cracked ones, go for over 4-figures. It's worth saving.

 

NAPA checks and cleans engine blocks?

 

If you dabble with stick welding cast, this place might be useful:
http://www.weldingelectrodesindia.com/welding.html#welding

...found 3 likely useful rods:
http://www.weldingelectrodesindia.com/pdf/euro-monel.pdf
http://www.weldingelectrodesindia.com/pdf/euro-nickel.pdf
http://www.weldingelectrodesindia.com/pdf/euro-nickel.pdf


.

 

Just curious, Why not torque the head down before welding it? Bill

 

Something tells me the best thing for the op to do at this time is to oil everything up, losely bolt it together, and stash it away for a few more years...

 

If it was mine I would weld it and do the machine work myself. But if I had to pay some one, I would find a good block. It just would not be worth the chance.

 

I had the lock and stitch method done on my 409 in the same location as yours on both sides of the block and its been fine for 5 years now. At first I was told it would weep a bit and to run straight water, no antifreeze as this would help ozidize (rust) the crack shut from the inside followed my moroso block sealer. The additional cost to the engine build was about 700 bucks. However Ive also heard of guys using JB weld on 409 water jacket cracks with success claiming the minimal water pressure of 15 psi or so wouldnt hurt it but I cant vouch for that method.

 

I had a 409 truck block repaired on both sides in the same spot by Columbus Col-Weld in Columbus Ohio. They charged me $1000 to repair both sides, drill out some broken head bolts, installed new freeze plugs, hone the cylinders, magnaflux and pressure test the block.

http://superpages.com/bp/Columbus-OH/Columbus-ColWeld-Corporation-L2051931031.htm

They did a super job on mine and the fella said they repair 348-409 blocks all the time. They have a great reputation for doing this type of repair.

Topstrap

 

Some NAPAs such as the one we have here also have a full service machine shop.

 

good thing all this advice is FREE! how many of you have actually had a cracked block repaired?? only then should you be giving advice, free or other-wise!! LOL

 

I have repaired many blocks by a process done with threaded brass rod and drilling holes into the crack tapping them then screwing the 1/4 20 brass rod into the holes overlapping each one by about .020" You then preheat the bock and braze over the area,this has been done for many years and it works,yes it is time consuming,but it does not cost thousands of $$.

For those in doubt ,I guess you don't have any of us old timers around to show you it can be done,and as for as the excess stress on the block .....bolt a set of heads on & torque the mains down before the process begins. (DO NOT FORGET TO DRILL A HOLE AT EACH END OF THE CRACK FIRST !!)

 

I tig welded a Ford 9N tractor trans case with nickel wire specifically for the purpose. That was like 8-9yrs ago and he's still using it. Considering the trans case is also the chassis (of sorts) I'd say the stresses are considerable. No heat cycling like an engine but it's strong. I heated the area with a torch before and after, after for about 20-30min backing off a little every 5-10 then dropped it in the bottom of the blasting cabinet (yes a big freakin cabinet). No matter what you choose, there's that bright green bottle (K&W?) block and head sealant. $20 bottle with a double your money back guarantee. It works. You can actually watch a leak stop. Just follow the directions with no short cuts.

I've seen a lot of cast iron repair in all my years restoring. You think you got worries with a 409? Try a Packard 12 or Cadillac 16 block or head. Imagine the Duesenberg owner's plight when they find it was used a bit harder than others. If it's a car block vs truck, fix it. You won't find cheap used 409 blocks unless you're extremely lucky, and if that's the case, lucky, share 6 numbers from 1 to 58 with me.

 

What happened to the link to the you-tube video of the youngun welding on the IH casting?
His approach was acceptable and easily followed. I have used a similar approach for many successful repairs. As in the video, you must id the metal and then have the appropriate stick but it can be done.

.

 

First off, that crack can be fixed.

Seriously, if you figure the fact that you have this 409 is a good reason to build a hot rod, forget it. An engine core constitutes something like maybe 1/20 of the cost/effort of a finished project. If having an engine meant much, I'd have a fleet of a dozen cars.

 

More than one and less than 10. How about you?

 

High newby, yes I have repaired blocks and they are just fine-------- whats your experience in the field? Gary

 

Having had a block unsuccessfully welded in the past, I'm not sure what I'd do. Had the 396 from my Camaro welded by a local company that specializes in this work. A small 3/8" long crack at the bottom of one bore resulted in some stress cracks opening up in another totally different area.
They heated my block up for welding in an oven, and did the weld easily. It was returned to the oven to be slowly cooled when they heard a loud bang. Opened the oven door and saw the block split into two V4 engines across the lifter valley.
Fortunately mine was an easy engine to find back then, and I got a 402 block for next to nothing. If this were mine, I'd try to see what a bare block might cost first. I doubt your engine would cost $2k to weld, but whatever it cost, a bare block will be cheaper.

 

Advice on advice is priceless.

 

Nice one!

 

Whew! Tig Tectic 2-24 rod, heliarc and do not let the weld item get over 125°, peen and allow to cool to near room temp...If the op was near I'd do it to end this thread..

 

I have had at least three 409 blocks repaired by qualified professionals. Just like other professionals, each has their distinct approach and procedure.

I did have some similar repairs done about 6 months ago, both sides. One side took 15 minutes, the other half the day. Cost was less than $500. You can barely tell there was a repair, and it sits beneath the exhaust manifold anyway. Now I have a standard bore 409 block that can be used in a build.

Also have a friend with a very original 1964 SS 409 car that did the JB weld thing and his was doing fine after several years. it did look messy, but it seems to be doing OK so far.

Good luck in whatever approach you take!

Tom