Beside Por-15, what other paint over rust products are available that offer the same type of protection but have a longer shelf life. Por-15 lasts about as long it takes to reseal the can and put it on the shelf after using it once. One trick I learned is that if you put a plastic bag into the can to take up the space above the paint before you reseal the can it lasts longer. Anyone know of products that can be bought at your local paint store instead of mail order or swap meets?
I flood the can with Argon gas from my TIG torch then put the lid on. The inert gas helps keep the paint from curing in the can. It isn't a long term thing but it helps. I also use the rust encapsulator stuff from Eastwood and it can be bought in spray cans. Just wipe off the nozzle when you put the half used can away.
#1 don't open the can Put a self tapping screws into the lid - one for pouring one for a vent. Put the screws back in with a dab of paint. #2 buy what you intend to use up. By the quart is much cheaper if you'll end up tossing 1/2 gallons. You can break down the gallons into quart cans. The stuff is a moisture cure product.
Master Series Coating has a product that is similar to POR. Maybe their shelf life is better. I've heard that it is better than POR. VR&C.
transfer the un-used por into a glass bottle, put plastic under the lid before you tighten it, then put in the fridge. Will keep for months that way.
POR-15 doesn't seal the rust in. It converts it and stops it. You are suppose to remove the loose stuff before applying it. I've been using it for almost 20 years.
From their web site - POR15 chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, non-porous coating. POR15 won't crack chip, or peel. It works by isolating metal from moisture. Without moisture present, steel can't rust. It's not a rust converter.
Always had good results with Por-15. I buy it in quart cans and transfer it into a plastic container. Shelf life is great if you keep it in the refrigerator.
Chassis Saver by Magnet Products. They also make a reducer to spray the product and suggest you pour a layer of reducer over product remaining in opened can before putting the lid back on to seal against air and extend life of the product.
3 years age I bought a can of Por-15 and couldn't get the lid off. Found a good sized lag bolt punched a hole in the lid and used the lag to seal it. I put it in the frig in the garage along with some cold beer and I'm still using out of that can.
Stuff a bunch of snake oil. you should save yourself some money and paint it with rustoleum or get rid of the rust and get some real paint. I just dont understand if you paint over the rust its still rusty right. Shortcuts never last
I use the master series but only on areas thatarent noticable.I usually sandblast and epoxy prime.My 56 fairlane headlight buckets i blasted epoxy primed and they look like new.I do like tinman. pour it into a glass jar.Seal with saran wrap put in fridge.
I scale as much rust off as possible, I use a converter called rust-mort, I.ve never had a problem with that method.
Because YOU don't understand it doesn't make it snake oil and doesn't mean it doesn't work. Many have used it and had it last longterm (when instructions are followed)
Fix things properly, painting over rust without blasting or replacing the issue is just a band aid, ive used POR several times and yes the instructions were followed to the letter, I was less than impressed with the results a while down the track. If you want to see dodgy, check out their fiberglass matting floor pan repair kit in their catalogue, About as backyard as it gets!!
I didnt say I dont understand the paint, I meant I dont understand how painting over rust fixes the problem. there is still rust underneath. Very well said, yes Ive seen that fiberglass mat that you just paint over. Very backyard. They sell all kinds of junk.
When I first open any can, I take a nail and drive holes all around the rim. It helps the paint to drain back in. If it's something I'm going to store for a long time, I'll run good masking or duct tape around the seam. I like the idea of taking up the space with a plastic bag to isolate the paint from the air.
Save some dough and have it sand blasted and shoot some epoxy primer over it immediately. As someone mentioned earlier, rust never sleeps.
This scenario - your project is all together and the under carriage is a little rusty. You scale and scrape off loose stuff, wire wheel what you can, tape a wooden wire brush on a sawsall and get a little bit more. Wipe it down and you are ready to do something all within in a few days. Now you need to paint it, so what are you gonna use? You'd want some kind of stuff that bonds to (rust) the stuff you couldn't get off. You want to (encapsulate) stop the rust so that it can't get any worse. And you'd want to protect and seal. Dismantling for blasting doesn't always make sense. Replacing structurally sound metal because its rusty doesn't always make sense. Doing nothing about rust doesn't make sense ever. Paving over Swiss cheese with ducttape chicken wire and steelwool is dumb and will continue into the future as far as it goes into the past. I'd like it to be different but stupid is as stupid does.
I've used cans of POR for periods of well over a year by never opening the can, instead use two metal building screws punched into the can lid across from each other, one to pour out of and the other a vent. Pour what you need into another open can or cup and otherwise keep the POR can sealed with the screws unless actually pouring from the can. Whatever POR you pour out use or pitch, do not put back in the can.
So how do you stir it prior to painting? its thick stuff and im sure shaking the can's not going to be very effective.
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