Technical engine oil

what motor oil are you using in your classics .im using VALVOLINE VR1. 20-50


see .

http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

 

I'm using the same.

 

Only the best for mine.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-SuperTech-5W30-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/16565378

 

I'm not sure what an enging is to start with Not even sure they use oil

 

Whatever cheapest 5W-20 there is. My jimmy 6 is either gonna burn it up or drip it on the driveway.

 

I have a new engine in my car and am seriously looking into Brad penn oil
http://penngrade1.com/ seams to be the stuff but a case is about $60.00

 

Shell Rotella T has always been a good choice - and still contains the needed ZDDP - especially for solid lifter cars like my Poly 318.


From Shell: "Shell Rotella T Multigrade Oil SAE 15W-40 with Triple Protection Technology, our API CJ-4/SM specification product, typically contains about 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorous as manufactured."

http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/tpl-pro.html

And you can find virgin oil analysis online my Googlin' Shell Rotella T VOA..... Should you want to see it for yourself......

 

Rotella 15w40 in the Y block, and the flathead ford before it was sold. Rotella can be bought nearly everyplace, and we used to travel a lot.

 

Just be sure the Rotella you buy is CJ-4. Not all Rotella has the high level of Zinc and phosphorous.

 

All I have ever used is Penns oil. Have 275,000 miles on my 92 pickup and at least 100,000 on the 49 Merc motor.

 

www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

Amailie 20-50w in two and 10-40w in the other two...I'm probably the only one, no one else seems to mention it..

 

That will be changing soon as Diesel engine manufactures will be spec'ing oil with only 800 PPM zinc to meet the new emission rules for diesels.

Use to use Shell RotellaT but have now switched over to Lucas Oil Hot Rod Oil 10W30 or
15W-40.

 

Using Valvoline 20/50 and a can of STP in my Pinto but rod still knocks.

 

Royal Purple HPS. Figure the small extra cost is worth it.

Always makes me shake my head that someone will spend a couple $1000 on rebuilding an engine, then fill it with the cheapest stuff they can find.

 

I have been using the Wal-mart conventional brand for as long as I can remember them having it with great success. 15W40 for all three cars. It's easier on my wallet and works, in my opinion, as good as the high dollar oils.

 

You realize that's only $5 a qt. don't you? Can't buy any brand of good oil for less than that. I use nothing but Brad Penn, at $5-$6 a qt. it's cheaper than $4 qt. cheap oil and a $13 bottle of additive at each oil change.

 

pennzoil streetmachine straight 50 weight, tried an trusted. i even run my old air cooled motorcycles on it.

 

I use Valvoline 30 wt. and cut it with 1 quart of non-detergent 30 wt. and some ZDDP additive to keep the cam and upper 'walls lubed up good.

 

Lucas Hot Rod series oil cause of the high zinc content,took the rattles out of all of my ol FE's

 

No problems with using Brad Penn its just hard to find locally.

 

Iam not complaining about the cost??I have no prob spending money on my engine oil with what ive got invested in shortblock and heads.Was just stating the price.

 

Two things, 1, when I was a young dude, cheap oil cost a quarter for a quart, the really good stuff was a buck. Its just darn difficult to see a quart for six to eleven bucks.
2, if you are driving a stock engine with 100,000 miles on it any oil may do well. A new old engine with a reground cam, (read ground below the flash hardening) newly refaced lifters, (read the same), and new stronger than stock valve springs, and plans to twist the motor two thousand or more than it ever was designed for, you need the 1000 PPM zinc.

 

I run zinc in everything from my car to my daily, even the lawn mower and tractor. I may be paranoid but it's cheap insurance.

 

Brad Penn green oil...has zinc for 85 and older engines.Be carefull with the Rotella I sell it and some of it that had zinc does not any longer..check the label