Aside from the increased outside workload that Summer brings to the mini farm, I did have to spend time notching the frame of the 48 PU I built for the wife and that resulted in reconfiguring the drive line because other things were hitting. And, I needed to partially rebuild the suspension in the 60 wagon along the way. So, I now have the coupe back up on the lift and started working on the wiring again. It will take a few days to figure out where I was at. I also need to work out a location for the brake pedal/booster and the emergency brake lever and fab some brackets to mount them. Another problem is the M-II rack's current mounting on the cross member is such that it is going to give me a problem mating up with the steering column shaft that EZ furnished (thanks again EZ). It is a really tight situation getting the connecting shaft between the steering and the rack to meet and, at the same time, avoid having to cut out part of the motor mount. I think the easiest way to cure that issue is to cut off the two mounting brackets on the crossmember that the rack bolts to and weld in two new ones with a greater angle to rotate the rack shaft down so I can run the DD shaft that connects steering column to the rack under the motor mount and close enough to the frame to allow room for the exhaust.
Does your rack have the long or short pinion shaft? Had the same problem on my 37 dodge with the motor mount being in the way of the long shaft, about 4" long, swapped it for a short pinion shaft rack, about 1.5" long, steering shaft clearance much better. Still probably have 3 joints but it will all clear the motor mount. I am using some heddman tight tube shorty headers for small block mopar. The outside of the flange is within 5" of the side of the block about 10" down from the exhaust ports on the head. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
hobiehunter, Thanks for that suggestion. I will check out the rack length and see if the shorter one would cure the problem.
Spent several afternoons this week routing the headlight and turn signal wires. Realized that I needed to deal with the rack shaft issue or I would be chancing burning some of the wiring with the plasma cutter or the bracket and support welding I would be doing to install the shaft between the rack and the steering column. Unfortunately changing out the rack so to one with the shorter shaft, as per hobiehunters suggestion wouldn't improve the angel problem enough to outweigh the need to cut away even more of the original front cross member. I will try to finish the shaft work today or tomorrow and post some pictures.
I just picked this up 33 dodge coupe 3 weeks ago. Hasn't had a motor in years. Set up for a SBC it does have the mustang II with rack and pinion with a gm tilt column. Stock rear springs and an 8 in ford if you need pics or something as am idea for yours let me know !! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Dirty30Dodge, Nice coupe. Thanks for the offer. Looks to be the same color as mine. Top appears to be filled and chopped?????
Nice looking 33. Glad you are back at it. I have been working on a 33 Plymouth build with a friend. You can check out our build thread titled "Uncle Ricks 33 Plymouth" You got a lot nicer body than what we started with. Steel parts are hard to come by for these old Mopars. We managed to save a lot. His fenders, splash aprons and grille shell will be fiberglass. He did get lucky and found the correct rolling chassis that already had everything installed. That was a big help for us. Good luck and have fun with your build.
Yes it's chopped I am no sure how much yet. If you have a minute could you measure a side window opening for me . It has a glass power sun roof in it. Instead a of a steel insert. Looks like a lot of parts were pulled from a salvage car even the heat and Ac Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Dirty30, Measurements: 1)middle of WS from bottom of WS frame to top of frame=11" 2) Door glass opening in the middle is 11 5/8" 3) Center of Opera window measures 10 3/4 4) middle of rear window is 7"
Great thank you mine has been chopped 2 inches I was thinking 3 but this the first 33 I have been around Not so many of us Dodge Brothers around. Thanks Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Took me forever to get these loaded. Progress on the coupe has been slow as usual. First the flu, followed by a bad cold, followed by wife being ill. And I had to shift over and work on the 49 Sedanette since I had some help available to set the front clip on to make sure it all fit. Will take it back apart now and finish welding all the various frame and suspension items I had tacked earlier, paint it all, reinstall the body and hopefully get it painted. But that is for another thread some day. Did get all the wiring run for the lights, front and back on the 33. Also, got the plasma cutter out and opened up some holes in the driver's side motor mount so I could get the DD shaft from the M-II rack to a point where I could connect it eventually to the steering column shaft. By going through the motor mount, I didn't have to change the mounting angle of the M-II power rack to get the rack shaft to drop down so the DD shaft would miss the motor mount on the underside. I also didn't have to go to a rack with a shorter shaft as discussed in an earlier post exchange. Note the big washer on the side of the motor mount that the shaft passes through. Once I get all the universal joints, shafts and column hooked up, I will weld one of these 1/8" thick washers to each side of the motor mount where I cut the hole for strength. I will also attach a support clevis to the frame to run the shaft through for extra support.
Nothing real exciting or worthy of picture posting going on. Mostly wiring and, unless someone has specific questions about that, I will wait to update until I get to some fabrication issues, like the MC and emergency brake install. Headlight, front turn signals, electric fan, horn wiring done. Did have to cut off about an inch of the upper end of the air deflector/front splash pan that fits behind the grill due to the new radiator. It makes it a lot easier to install a replacement radiator if you remove the deflector.
just found this thread, posting to keep track of it for ideas, havent read it through yet. i almost finished my 28 ford, and just had someone offer me a 33 dodge coupe, next to free. just wants it out of his way. its tarp'd but the wheels in ice, was driven to where it is now. once the ice melts ill be picking it up.
Haven't posted in a while, but don't give up on me. Computer bit the dust and given that I am at that age that is technically challenged about this new electronic world, I had to wait until my youngest son had time to come over from Ohio today and set up the new one. I am still figuring out how to post pictures so a written update will have to do for now. I had been putting off installing the brake pedal and MC as I mulled over my options. I didn't want to mount the pedal and MC on the firewall but figuring out how to put it under the floorboard in a place where I could access the lid of the MC easily in case I needed to add brake fluid was problematic. I did not want to end up with it back under the seat. The problem starts with a there being a minimal space between the frame rail and the 904 tranny where the brake pedal has to go. This is compounded by the shift linkage which is on the left side of the tranny, figuring out the exhaust route, and the fact that the starter is on the left side of the engine. On top of a narrow left to right space there was also the issue of the X member which attached to the frame rail at a point far enough forward that it interfered with the placement of the MC. More later, son from Ohio just called and alternator went out on his car on the way back home.
My 33 Plymouth has it under the floor,it fits fine between the front of the X member and the driver side frame rail also has a brakebooster attached.My trans is a 727 which is a smidge wider and has no clearance issues,access door is just ahead of my seat and is accessable.
notaford----don't know what to tell you. It would be great I could of done that, but I couldn't. Maybe the difference between a coupe and a sedan. I don't know what engine you are running but I assume from your tranny ID that it is a mopar. Sent the son back home in the wife's car, charged up his battery this morning and drove it back on the battery the 40 miles to our place. Will replace his alternator mid-week after it warms up a bit and stops snowing. Now back to the MC brake pedal issue. After determining where the brake pedal had to go and the distance needed behind it for the MC, I marked how far back on the X member the clearance would require. After a little adjusting back and forth with a tape measure I determined that after I cut the X member away from the frame rail where the two met I would need bend the X member at a point 9 1/4" back from where I cut it away from the frame rail. It turns out that if bent the X member at this point it would slide along the inner channel of the frame rail to form a right angle with the frame rail and be right up against the inner channel of the frame rail so I could easily weld the two together. That is, the distance from where I would bend the X member so it would meet the inner side of the frame channel required the same 9 1/4". In essence I was just pivoting the X member back along the frame rail. So, I cut through the top and bottom of the X member back 9 1/4" to insure it would bend in the right place, heated the X member at that point, and pushed/hammered the end I had cut lose from the frame rail back along the inner channel of the frame rail until I had the right angle formed. Now I just have to weld the X member to the frame rail and weld the top and bottom of the X member back at the pivot point so everything is sturdy again. I had the car up on the lift when I did this and put a tranny jack under the X member to make sure nothing came out of place. I will also weld a gusset where the X member now sits inside the frame rail and where the X member was bent to form the right angle to the frame rail. I will also box the frame rail between where I cut away the X member and where it now attaches at the right angle 9 1/4" further back. This will provide me with a mounting point for the brake pedal bracket.l As soon as I figure out how to capture pictures on this new computer I will post some showing the above procedure.
Here are a few pictures from NotaFord's 33 Plymouth that we have been working on http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=680682&highlight=uncle+ricks+33. He is running an all Mopar drive line and has a stock 33 frame. We did not have to do any cutting of the X member. The booster and master cyl fit nicely under the floor and there have been no problems with pedal clearance. If you have the room you could always mount a mini booster and master cyl under the hood on the fire wall. That is where it is on my 37 Chevy. The only disadvantage is the engine compartment might look a little more crowded with it there.
raymay, Thanks for the pictures. As I indicated in post 136 I didn't want to mount it on the firewall. If I mounted it as you did, between the X member along the frame rail I would be under the seat and have to take it out every time I wanted to access the MC. Also, the rod between the pedal and the booster would have to be much longer and I have seen these bend and bind after awhile. As I noted in my response to notaford, the Dodge coupe frame may be different than your Plymouth sedan or your front seat may sit back further than it does in my coupe. It appears that you opened up the space where the X member crosses to have more room for the tail of the tranny and/or the drive shaft.
Finally, I may have the picture upload on the new computer figured out. Shows the X member where I am going to cut it away from the frame and bend it back Note where I cut it 9 1/4" back along the X member on the top and bottom so I could get a clean bend Heated it and bent it back so the front end where I cut it away from the frame slid back inside the frame rail Now I have room to install a brake pedal bracket with a MC behind and it will allow me to put a fill door in the floor board in front of the seat
I haven't posted in a while. Still getting used to the new computer but I am making some slow progress. Cleaned up and painted the reconfigured X member prior to installing the MC As you can see I boxed the frame rail so I would have something to attach the MC bracket to. Mounted the MC
This is looking down on the MC with the floorboard removed. As I indicated earlier, the reason for altering the X member was do I could mount the MC in front of the seat for easier access without having to use a long push rod. Replaced the floor board, marked the cut lines for an access hole, removed the floor board, cut out the access hole and replaced the floor board. Cut a cover, bead rolled it to match the beads in the floor board and installed it
Originally I had tacked in a plate to cover the clutch, brake and column holes in the toe board. But after looking at it from the engine side it looked like crap, so cut it out, squared up the original pedal and column openings and cut a piece out of some 16 gage that I had that would allow me to butt weld a patch in the openings. Also for some reason the original toe board had about 12-15 prongs cut in it. I am not sure what these were intended for unless it was to hold the carpet in place. It looked to me like they would leak water back under the carpet or fumes so I hammered them back down even with the board and welded them shut. You can see the weld areas if you look close.
I had drained the gas tank when I started this project, but had not really checked it out. The car was running when I bought it, but seemed to be starving for gas. I wasn't going to run the original flat head 6 so I didn't spend any time determining what the problem was. Last Sat. I was getting ready to run new fuel lines and thought I had better check out the tank. It was easy enough to pull it out. I had it up on the lift so I put my tranny jack under it, unbolted the straps and had it out in about 10 minutes. I didn't have all the gas drained because I had used the gas line port when I took the line lose instead of the drain plug in the bottom of the tank. Some previous owner or mechanic had twisted the head off the drain plug. When I got the tank out I removed the gas cap and drained the small amount of remaining fuel out through the fill tube. I could hear some rattling in the tank and by shaking it back and forth had crud dropping out the fill hole. I pulled the sender to get a better look inside. By the way it was the original sender---with cork floats. I could see the inside had the coating flaking off. The radiator shops around here won't do gas tanks anymore so I knew that I would have to take it to restoration shop about 70 miles away that had a "Renews" it franchise. Last visit about 5 years ago the cost was $160. When I added in the cost of a couple of round trips to their location, the fact that the drain plug had been rendered useless, the shape of the sender, and that the original tank had a 1/4" line fitting instead of 3/8's I pulled up the "Tanks" website and realized that a new tank, with the 3/8's pickup fitting, and a new sender, even with the shipping, was only about $90 more than what cleaning the old tank and my travel costs it became a no brainer. I called "Tanks" last Monday, had the tank in hand Wed. and back in on Thur. Friday I plumbed up the new lines to the fuel pump. Looking at this shot of the tank from the rear you can see the new brake lines across the rear end. Normally, I would bend an flare a set but at the last Indianapolis Swap meet a rep from "the Right Stuff" had a booth and he offered free shipping on new rear lines and a set for the 8" Maverick was only $25. I also got a set of SS rear lines for the Caprice rear that I put in the 49 Buick sedanette for the same price at the same time. The lines for both rear ends were perfect fits and I didn't have to spend a couple of hours bending and flaring.
A while back, "Ezdusit" posted on this thread that he had a 32 Dodge column and steering wheel I could have for the cost of shipping if I wanted it. The previous owner had, for some reason, even thou he basically restored the car as a stocker, put in a newer Ford tilt column, I would guess late 70's or 80's. It was big ugly piece. I took Ezdusit up on his offer (thanks again). and have started working on cutting it down for the coupe. I will post some pictures of the process later. I need to finish plumbing the brake lines and the engine and dash wiring first. Probably won't get much done the next week or so. Scheduled to go to the "StrayKat 500" next weekend. If any of you are going to be there let me know.
Had a good time at the StrayKat. Weather was super. Did get a few things done on the coupe after I came back. Fuel line is in and brake lines are in, but not tightened down yet. Will pull the MC, bench bleed and reinstall. Then tighten everything down. Hope to get the brakes bled and functional by the end of the week.
Got the MC bled and all the lines run. But when I started to bleed the lines there were two slight leaks. One on the fitting into the MC that also allows the step down to the 3/16 brake line and another on the outflow end of the residual valve. Tried tightening but didn't work. Tried new fitting on the residual valve which also didn't work. Will pick up an new residual valve and replacement fittings and try again. Mounted a tranny cooler on the bottom air deflector behind the grill just below the radiator. Will plumb it up and get the tranny filled in the next few days. Back to the wiring. Still hope to have the coupe on the road this Summer. Shooting for the Frog Follies
The Jalopy Journal
