I am looking to clean up some cast iron parts to a very old lathe i just purchased at a garage sale. The stuff is so darn heavy and big i can not blast it myself and its just too expensive to get blasted elseware. This is the base and legs. I came across the sem stuff today but i never used this. I want to just preserve the patina and kill the rust. I might topcoat with por15 but im not sure yet Have any of you guys tried this product with favorable results? I also want to know if it will accept por15 as a topcoat. A quart is $60 around here and i didnt wany to throw money away if this is just another snake oil gimmick Curious
POR15 is not designed to be a topcoat, or to be painted over anything but properly prepared rusty metal.
SEM offers both Rust Mort and the Rust Seal product in question. They are 2 entirely different products. The Rust Seal is more like a primer. I have no experience with it so I am watching this thread with curriosity too.
Rust Mort is phosphoric acid. I have used it and it will lift rust and leave you with a grey surface. It's expensive....I currently soak rusty stuff in vinegar but that will also remove rust and leave you with a surface that appears to be clean metal. I don't think you can remove rust and keep the patina. .If the lathe is going to be kept from the elements I would just paint it...purple. Mort is the French word for death,,suggesting the product kills rust..
No experience with that particular product, but if it is made by SEM it probably is a very good product. Everything I have used from them has been top notch. Don
Home depot has a phosphoric acid prep, about $20/gallon. Wire brush your parts, paint it on and let it sit. If it dries black and some chrystals, wire brush and then paint. If you still see rust, do it again. for shop tools, I prime and paint with rustoleum. RB
Don't recall the actual name, but I've got an OLD bottle of their (SEM) "Rust Encapsulator"...still works great. I just used it about 3 weeks ago on some floor sections. I've had this same bottle for probably 25+ years, still works as advertized. Mike
Actually, yes you can remove the rust and keep the patina if the patina you refer to is the existing paint. You can do this with a 24 hour soak in citric acid using citric acid powder and water. Disposal afterward is safe and easy. This is the method that many in antique & collectible hobbies use as a means to make an old piece look much better without ruining its originality. - EM
guys im picking up a pint of this Rust Seal locally, im gonna try it tonight and see how it works, il throw up some photos when im done.
got home early to try the stuff, it sucks to be honest, i do not think it works well on cast iron but maybe it does on regular steel. i did a small section it did zero and looked purple in areas and left a waxy type feeling to the cast. no idea how they say you can top coat over this. im returning it in the morning, i decided to just clean and spray a matte clear on everything and it looks very cool as is so im leaving it.
Cast Iron has a real slow rusting or oxidizing, It last for years outside. Does not melt away like steel. Ago
Clean with a Scotch Brite pad and CLR or similar product. Then rub down with some old engine oil. Not heavy just barely apply and rub it in. Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
Here is a photo of the lathe legs. I like th look and i hope the eatwood diamond clear seals out any more rust. Blasting these parts would take forever as cast iron takes a long time. What do you guys think?
Just as rust can form and bubble up under paint it will due the same to any clear coat you apply. Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
Clear will be a waste of time and money over that and personally I think it looks dumb over "patina". If you like the look leave them as they are. They lasted this long without clear and they will continue to do so.
i used to use SEM black paint on frames and such. another "paint over rust" junk product. takes forever to dry, really, about a month later you can still stick your finger nail in it, and soon after its dry it starts to rust. paint is expencive, so prep it right.
Read the product information sheets!!! SEM Rust Seal does not convert, encapsulate, prime, or remove rust. It does not dry clear. It coats metal and protects from further rusting. It can be left as applied or painted but the instructions are specific as to what can be applied over it. I would not use it to coat stocks of new metal. I think PHIX is better for that. I never use it on exterior surfaces or any that I plan to paint. I pour or brush it into hidden inaccessible areas allowing it to penetrate close fitting panels such as pinch welds. SEM Rust Mort converts rust to a hard black material that stops rusting. I've used a lot of it. I like knowing that exterior panels that very well could have tiny rust specks that remain after thorough sanding will be neutralized before priming. SEM Rust Mort requires topcoating.