This is probably what I will do I am thinking of a presentation much as Speedy Bill has done I think it should explain the concept of our type of car but I will also try and show photos of current landspeed cars and show the speeds they reach as the old motors are developed with modern technology when you think about it these type of motors have come a huge distance even in recent years.
I have two questions i'm hoping you guys can possibly help me with. Firstly, has anyone heard of a French Ford dealer who was situated in Paris from the teens up until the mid 1930s by the name of Charles Montier? And secondly, Montier along with his son were racers who built their own parts and cars to compete. Model T Ford OHV heads, brakes{mechanical, I think} bearing his name, gearboxes and so on. Has anyone seen or know of any parts, drawings laying around?
Just some idea's about pressurizing main bearing inserts in the A block. This block was bored for inserts at Taylor engine a few years back. The inserts used are from the early version of the Austin mini 848 engine prior to 78 or 79 the later engines used a 1.750 diameter journal. These seem to be readily available, on the west coast anyway, and are relatively inexpensive. They are the connecting rod bearings. (I'm going to round off all dimensions to an easy 3 places I would advise you to get the exact dimensions before beginning) They are for a 1.625 journal and the OD bore is 1.770 1.771. They are .875 in length so 2 fit well in the front and the center mains. In the rear main Jay used 1 full width (.875) then the center insert in the rear main is narrowed to .730 the very rear insert in the rear main is narrowed to to fit within the thrust to .830. This is so the oil is some what equalized between the gaps and gives the most bearing surface. The oil feeds through the gaps at 40 lbs pressure in this engine from a converted early V8 long shaft pump. It takes 2 sets unless you purchase individual pairs as it takes 10 pair. I found tri metal sets for $16 or $17 a set recently.
All machine work for inserts including seal was done at Taylor Engine's in Whittier in 1997. I use the "high performance" seal as it is narrower than the standard blue seal. Crank grinding, Chevy 2 piece seal, was done at Castillo's Crank Specialist's in La Mirada. If you notice the notches ground at bottom of bore they were ground in to clear REM Al. rods. Bob used the same blank for A and B rods he just changed rod big end bore. He didn't sell too many for A's so he just bored them out to B size. As it turned out the Al. A rods weigh slightly more than a "stock" A rod. My set are on the shelf connected to a set of new, I think, J and E 4" pistons with rings. They have been narrowed for Chevy pistons and Bob bored them to use the same inserts as the Continental Y 91 engine
Bill, not nit picking but the seal will work better if it is installed the other way round in the block. I also noticed the flat register areas on the bottom of the valley for cam supports. As you can see in the attached pic, I do mine a little different. J
Yes, I tought that two carbs would be to much, that's why I tried the three carbs with the two outside carbs opening later. But it's only when I just cruise along that it doesn't run smooth. I can also adjust the outside carbs that they don't open but it seems that with just the idle screws open on the two outside carbs and the center one operating normally is to much. So I think I'm going to block off the outside ones. So I still have the looks of the three :-( If I raise the compression, do you think it would work then or do I need a lot more work on the engine? Thanks, Eddy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
yes (though I am sure you have seen all these, but it was a nice search), here is his LeMans T: period add: think some of his speed bits ended up on prewar car.com a while back, but in general parts are rare. good luck with the search. (pinched from here): and one racing today: signaling to pass a slow BMW not a bad looking little bugger, the more i look at it, I really like the fenders:
Bill dont ask why i noticed the seal the head in the background is a dohc mod motor i was sizing it up for possibly using on mod a Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Johnneilson... Ok... What is this???? Do you have any pics of the block you care to post Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That is the lower cam support. I had the cam blanks made similar to '28 cams with five full dia journals. It looks like this one is 1.70 dia. The main benefit is that the cam can be removed from motor with girdle and crank in place. John
Now its much more clear... It's a pic of the girdle flipped over. The part we see goes in the block. I like the added cam supports Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hello I'm curious. What is the diameter of the Chevy 2 piece rear main seal? Seems pretty large. Do you weld up the crank and grind it to size when running a regular crank and that seal? Or is there a smaller version available? Thanks, Magnus
Anyone build an In & Out box from a Model A transmission. Real interested in the fabrication of the shifter tower/mechanism? Thanks
All you need is the input shaft, the output shaft, and the sliding second/high gear, with it's shifter fork. Weld up the notch in the other fork, so that the gear shift lever doesn't go there by mistake. Herb K
Shhhhh.....don't say it too loudly, Bluto might hear you. Thanks for the photos Furb. I have seen all of them but it was a good idea to put them up.
Hello to everyone! A Question to you "insert" experts: I have a B' block that was done years ago and there is no paper trail for me to research this answer. The inserts used on the crank (probably some sort of connecting rod) are 2.142 OD +/- and the block measures out to 2.1425 or close enough for this question. Rich @ Antique Engine Rebuilders makes shell insert bearings for the B' engine, and his are 2.138 OD - both Rich & James Rogers have suggested that I use what ever my crank size measures out to, and use a .002 +/- shim to line the back side of the shell bearings to reduce the ID of the blocks 3 main bearing openings and accept the 2.138 bearings that Rich produces. Sounds simple enough, but most people are suggesting that I just replace the block and start over..... OK, but the block has already been sleeved back to standard, the rods are inserted and have new pistons, the valves are new - but I need to stitch a crack between a pair of seats, and there are other improvements that went along with the above machine work. I am leaning towards setting up the block & caps again and re-line boring the block just enough to use a more standardized shim stock, like .005 that is available through McMaster Carr, and also installing cam bearings so that the center to center measurements of the crank & cam can be reestablished . What are your thoughts - suggestions - procedures - that I might consider before attempting this correction. Does anyone know of an insert bearing with an OD of at least 2.142 or larger? Thanks in advance for your time and help. Steve Hackel
Steve, Bearings are available for 2.146 line bore. These will require narrowing to fit your block/cap combination. Applications include Perkins Diesel, Early Nissan and Triumph Spitfire. J
The Jalopy Journal
