I have 37 frame with must II front. Need to know if 1989 318 block with auto from a truck is the same size and mtg locations for when I replace it later for an earlier 340/360 block? Can I swap out the injected intake for carb? Any other concerns? Will the 89 1/2 ton truck rear chuck fit into my narrowed 8 3/4 mopar rear?
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/13.html http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/smallblock.html
273 340 318 360 are all la engines and should be basically the same size I built a 57 dodge pu with a volare frnt end built it first with 318 and later changed to 340 and never changed anything. tom
So are we saying all years of 340, 360 & 318 up to 1989 are created as far as size goes? Outside dims are the same? Especially where the engine and tranny mounts are?
You must be clearer on what your looking for. The side engine mounts of the SB Mopars 273-360 shall be the same. Have you Googled the most basic question of the dimensions of this engine family? Weight, width, length.
IIRC, there are two different versions of Mopar 318, the early "A" poly series, or wide-block 318, and the later "LA series. The LA version 318 and the 340/360 are interchangeable as far as mounting, bellhousing pattern, etc. So if your 37 has an LA 318 in it, a 340 or 360 is a bolt-in deal. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/..._0109_chryslers_poly_head_engine/viewall.html
273-318 left block mount that the rubber bolts to is wider than the 340-360 mount. 273-318 mounts can be used with spacers on the 340-360 blocks. Right side mounts are identical. I don't know why Mopar did this except for the fact the front left freeeze plug hole was relocated with the narrower mount on the larger engines.
An 89 truck rear end has a removable rear cover. No chunk. 72 was the last year a chunk type rear end was made.
I am running a 1986 318 with a 904 and A-Body 8 3/4 rear in my 36 dodge pickup, Also I am running a Mustang II front with a manual rack. The mounts that I used were from Chassis Engineering. For exhaust I used Sanderson block huggers. To help clear the steering, I offset my engine and trans 3/4" to the right - same as chrysler did in the A-Bodies. To help clear the crossmember, I used a rear sump truck oil pan along with pick up tube, dip stick and dip stick tube. My firewall has been modified for clearance as well. Also, I converted my engine to a arb using an Edelbrock Performer and Edelbrock 1406. You may choose a different approach but at least you can see one solution.
What do you think? Got a chance to buy 77 dodge camper 360 & 727 less than 50k good running condition. $600 includes eng, trans, driveshft.. All for my 37 p/u. Should I be on the lookout for anything off tht camper? Thoughts?
Sounds like a good price on a low milage donor. Is this something you're going to put in instead of the 318? Keep the engine & tranny together as a pair, the 360 balances differently than the other LA engines & the Tq converter is different because of that.
The truck oil pans are rear sump,car pans are 2 sump style?,also 360 oil pans are 360 only,wont fit the 318 and 340,intkes are all the same. Harvey
Your 77 360 will be a gutless wonder, a real gas hog. I got a good deal on my 78 360. In my 39 Plymouth truck I would get about 14 mpg with an overdrive 518 tranny and 3.55 gear. I finally pulled it and put a late 80s roller cam 318. It eliminated worrys about oil and flat tappet cams and has as much power as the low compression 360. 360s are known to be gas hogs so you be the judge.
I have a stock, rebuilt 78 360 out of a motorhome in my 57 Dodge D100 and it is no slouch with a 727 3 speed and 3.55 gears it just breaks into the 13s and makes about 15 highway MPG, its my daily driver and If your not looking for a drag truck just a all around good set up this will do fine.
Still trying to gather all the parts I need. Seeking 8 3/4" rear center section for my 742. Will 741 or 789 work as well? Thanks for the input so far... yes I was seeking the outside dims....LA small is what we are doing until I can locate a 340 at a fair price. So for nor its the 360 & 727. This should make it easier for the swap out later Would there be any instructions somewhere for putting the rear together?
Nothing wrong with the 360. But, as previously mentioned, it is externally balanced so be cautious. I have some 8-3/4 info here: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=1226 .
I changed from a slant six to a 1978 360 in a Dodge pickup and it had plenty of power once I got it running right.The carb was messed up when I got it, it was hard to start slow and a gas hog to boot. Rebuilt the carb and it ran great. Gas mileage not bad either for an engine of its size and power, 15MPG compared to 18 with the slant. Better mileage than a Chev 350 but of course, not as good as a 318.
I swapped the old 318 poly out of my 59 Plymouth Suburban for a cheap high milage 360 magnum from a pickup and used an A833 O/D to replace the old pushbutton automatic. The rear sump pan was a pain to modify to clear the tie rod. The motor mounts weren't a bolt on either and needed mods. Regardless I'm very happy with it.
Just keep the 360, I would rather have my 360 than a 340 anyday (looking back at what I spent) there is nothing "Magical" about a 340, It always seems to get these super power myths about it. Its about the same power as a 360, little difference. want to get fancy throw a Sixpack on the 360 and no one will know the difference, unless they know how to visually tell a 273/318/340 from a 360…(Harmonic-Balancer size) and most hardcore Mopar guys Ive meet at car shows dont even seam to know about this….except the 72-73 340s which had the same external balancer and are visually identical to a 360 and besides at car shows every "genius" will call it a 318 anyway…
340 was high performance only and was the hottest small block engine in 1968 and 1969. 360 was a detuned workhorse engine usually seen in low compression 2 barrel, or smogged up form. But, they were closely related and there is no reason a 360 won't make as much power or more, given equal cam, compression, carburetor, etc. Mopar Action magazine recently did a build article on a cheapy rebuild of a junkyard 360, and dynoed 468 HP. For a total cost of $2500. So they will perform if given a chance and you don't have to spend a fortune for a strong street engine.
Correct. Also the 340 was phased out as it has a large bore/short stroke and could not be made emission compliant. The 360 was the answer to that. The 340 is a great engine but it is also a revver - the 360 will lug better than the 340 on the street because of its longer stroke. Its bore to stroke ratio is also good so nothing wrong in getting a good performing 360 together - nothing beats cubes! Plus the 360 is readily available
I made my own for my '38 Plymouth pickup . Similar looking to an old hurst mount , used ford biscuit style rubber insulators from speedway on the frame . Wish i could show you some photos , but with the front fenders on , the mount is difficult to see .
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