does anyone make a kit of spacers to put under a 31 roadster body to help mate it to a 32 frame to help with sag and door alingement ??? or is it shim as you go....
To do it right you have to cut and shorten the front body mounts. Then the rear sub rails need to be cut and modified to fit the frame. there is someone manufacturing a kit for the rear sub rails to fit a 32 frame. Jim
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748670&highlight=subrail From the classifieds, no experience with them but looks like a nice kit.
I bought one of the sub frame kits from Steadfast Mfg. for my coupe. Haven't installed it yet but did set it on my '32 frame and the fit is perfect on it and inside the car. Nice quality pieces. Should save a ton of time. Good luck.
Any one have pic's of how and where the body attaches to the Steadfast Mfg. sub rail kit?......some bottom view pic's.
No pics but its easy. I think i welded it to the inner fender panel and the old subrails. I ran the full frame and had to notch the lower pannel and pie cut i think a half inch out of the frame.
I called steadfast to ask some quick questions about there kit, and order a kit. I got the secretary who was unfriendly, she told me the guys were in the shop and they would call me back. She took me number. They never called me back. I am making my own rear subrails from 1 x 2 tube.
Didn't they used to make a couple of pieces of wood or plywood for shims between the body and frame? The Model A frame is straight, the 32 is curved. So you have to take a straight wooden board and contour the bottom with a disc grinder.
Maybe, but that would obviously jack the car up higher,and you still have the rear sub-rails to deal with. The modifications to the cowl are quite simple.
That is unfortunate. Henry is a hell of a nice guy, and it is a nice product for a fair price. That said, if you are able,there's no reason not to make your own.
Who knows why she was having a bad day, I'm buying a Steadfast kit as soon as I pay off the chassis and have the funds. Quality parts are worth it. Bob
The "old school" method was to make an oak stringer both curved and tapered along its length to fill the gap between the frame and body. Very labor intensive, and is visible from the side. I did this on mine, as I had nothing to go by in the 80's other than the R&C coverage of the build of Bud Bryan's '29. I just fabbed up the subframe over the kickup. Wouldn't do it again. Sectioning the front frame mount at the firewall is easier. There have been several definitive builds doing that on here over the years.
My $.02 You guys are gonna laugh! My car was built 11 years ago. Te thought came up about the gap. it would look bad. Check out these pix My body has been on the chassis for 11 years and 40,000 plus back road miles. All it has is 6 pieces of hardwood bolted thru the original holes in the A's body, In the beginning I wanted to "fix" it! If it doesn't bother me why fix it Keep driving! Regards to all Tony
Dear, Kato Kings.... This is the "secretary" of Steadfast Mfg aka "Henry's Mom" I am sorry that you felt I was unfriendly... I have been given strict orders not to bother the guys though out the day with all the phone calls. It isn't that the calls are not important {we value all our customers}, it is just that the guys are very busy and are trying to get some jobs down the road. After our sedan came out Henry has been very busy, he is not an office person, he loves the metal work and creating another cool idea/car. As far as not calling you back... All I can say is that Henry & I try our best. A big thanks to the customers that do call us back or even send us a reminding email of what you are looking for, as we all find out the older we get the less time in the day
X3.........The only thing stopping me from buying the 30-31 to '32 subrail kit is lack of money. I'll be caling when the funds arrive. Bob
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