My son wants to paint the '55 Chevy we are building for him Satin Black. We are stripping it to bare metal and going from there. What would be the best paint and process to go with for a good long lasting paint job???
The absolute best quality paint process would be black basecoat with clear with a flattening agent added, it will look like flat black but have the durability of a base/clear paintjob. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you are taking the car to bare metal use a etching primer and as for paint,I have had good luck with Kirker S.G. hot rod black. It's been on my truck for 7 years now. HRP
Hi, I am new here so you can take this information for what it's worth. I run a Harley-Davidson performance shop and recently used their "black denim" paint. It is a base coat then a satin clear coat is applied over the base coat. My painter has used all kinds of different paints and he told me that the paint that I took him from Harley was the best paint he had ever shot. He said it laid down really nice and went further than other paints he had used. It is not cheap paint and it has a different mixing ratio than other paints as well. Just throwing that out there, hope it is useful as an option for you. Good luck with your project!
John Deere "Blitz Black" enamel. I've used it several times w/ great success. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
+1 SEM Hot rod Black is a urethane matte black...I found it sprays good, has great durability, and looks great....
I agree on using an automotive enamel and adding a flattening agent, at least with this you can DA it and top coat it later.
Hadn't heard about John Deere Blitz Black but Found this info at http://blitzblack.com/ John Deere Blitz Black is a suede/satin black enamel paint manufactured by Valspar. It's manufactured for use on their farm equipment. It's durability, look and low cost (around $25 a gallon) have become popular with custom car builders and hot rodders to give their car the old "hot rod" look that won't fade away and is very durable to the elements. This paint can be applied anywhere including high heat areas. According to John Deere, you CAN paint over John Deere Blitz Black with another coat of Enamel paint. Valspar used to make Tractor Supply paint which a lot of folks seemed to like as a low cost solution. (Not the stuff they sell now.)
JD Blitz Black is an exceptional value. I'd still use an experienced painter to lay it down properly, given the satin finish shows application flaws/overlap/overspray more so than the gloss finishes & can't be corrected w/ a simple color sand/polish. If you are doing it yourselves, JD may be more forgiving to your wallets for practice too... $0.02
Sherwin Williams makes a product called DTM. Its an alkyd enamel in satin black. Awesome stuff and hardens up nicely. Pretty cheap too!
Hotrod flatz. Check then out. They have all kinds of satin colors. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Is the clear coat with flattening agent common? My dad just talked to a guy at Sherwin Williams and he didn't recommend satin paint finishes because he said they can't be clear coated. He suggested a semi gloss paint job instead. He also said you have to wash satin paint jobs with special soap? Obviously satin paint finishes are probably not something he would see frequently maybe? Can anybody set me straight? I was hoping to do jeep rescue green in a satin finish. But I suppose I would want to see it before I would paint the whole truck. (Since I have only seen it in a regular finish.)
My heap came to me with bodywork done and lacquer primer. Someday I'll strip it down but for now I have some gloss black lacquer kicking around, I think I'll shoot it with that, color sand it and drive it like that.
I've done it with a black base coat with no clear and with a base coat clear coat with a flattening agent. No question the clear coat is the way to go. Much more durable. My 62 Impala wagon (below) all the satin black except the hood is Limco 3 a BASF product base coat with no clear. Limco 3 is a good product which goes for $18.50 a quart. The hardener costs more then the paint. After having some damage to the hood it was repainted with a Sikkens base coat and clear with a flattening agent. No one could ever detect a difference between the hood and the rest of the car. Its been on there a few years and has held up great. I wash it with regular car wash soap and use spray detailer to keep it clean.
Here's my driveway painted shop truck, which was done with Blitz Black. One of the nice things is that you can get it in rattle cans, too. This shot was probably taken about six years ago & the paint has really held up well. I used the truck today to haul a pile brush to the muncher.
My 64 Belair was satin black. You wash satin paint jobs with simple dish soap, a clean sponge, warm water, and that's it. No polish, no work. Very easy to maintain. It's great. If you want to get fancy, mothers sells a special "satin paint finish detailing product", but I would just stick with some good ole Palmolive
Ask him what the visual difference is between "Satin" and "Semi-gloss" once its been applied to the car.
Obviously your SW rep knows NOTHING about satin paint...my bro and I scuffed 6 year old industrial primer, on the Cadillac below, and sprayed satin clear...it's now been on 4 years...we run it thru quarter car washes, using their soap and it takes bugs and dirt off real well...when at home, we use Dawn dishwashing soap, a sponge and rinse with plain water and then wipe it down with old towels...nothing affects it. R-
As far as satin verses semi-gloss the visual deference is the satin is more of a eggshells finish,,the semi gloss has a slight shine. HRP
ive shot sem...hotrodflatz...dupont...all are great...personally..id shoot flat black and satin clear... ppg..dupont..all make good clear ..some need flattening agent..can even choose amount of gloss...
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