#*#October 2013 Banger Meet#*#

I'm an American with a Polish wife.

We spend Summers her and the rest of the year in the USA.

 

Cam walk is the reason. Especially when you pressurize the oiling system. The extra force to drive the oil pump under pressure make the cam walk forward.


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Beat all the 4 bangers at the Race of Gentlement and won a Giant Check. Also beat The Flatty V8 that won the big check for its class. Beat one motorcycle there as well. The car ran pretty good. but needs stiffer springs in the pressure plate and I found the #1 and #2 cylinders had LOTS of oil int them and fouled plugs.

There were lots of pretty cool bangers there as well.

 

Mike, It was good to meet you and your dad! Couple of cool cars with equally cool owners!

You need to tell everyone about your little fuel system "discovery" on Saturday afternoon! PRICELESS!!!!

Congrats on the big check! I'd bet you'd do it all over again even without the check! Great weekend!

 

I had the pleasure of getting my ass handed to me in the finals of the banger class by Mike. I forgot to open my fuel valve before our start but it's not like it would have made a difference, lol.

I'll have something for you next year Mike!!!

Sorry I missed you Brett!

 

Thanks Mike, Brett, Was great meeting you guys too.

Sunday morning when I went to start the car, a grabbed the throttle linkage, pulled back and squrited a little gas down the intake. well I notice the front carb didn't open up. The set screw on the linkage was loose and about to fall off. What the hell? I Was only running 1 carb on saturday!?!? Fixed the problem and the car really came alive. Wouldn't have been able to beat the V8's or the bike if I didn't notice this.

Bring it on Mike!! I'll be keeping my eye on ya haha.... I will have a flat head banger there also next year, along with the single seater of course.

 

I think I need to make a FAT guy single seater for next rear. That would be a 2 seater for you mike.


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What single item makes the biggest difference to your car in my case it is the changing of the dizzy, it totally changed the car.

 

t minus 4 weeks to driving everywhere in the coupe. Going to run 16 and stock gearing. T5 trans and still up in the air on what tires. Defiantly blackwalls, ass end has 2 spring removed she sits fairly level.
what should I get...value everyone's 2 pennies.

 

So far I would say the 750 17's. They help "look" the part and give me a nice overdrive effect. Of course rebuilding the carb, water pump, and dizzy help a lot to make it run better, but the big rear skins really help with drivability.

 

Tiny sounds good I got a surprise how much different my ride was when I changed from normal 35 wires to bent spokes the ride feels more like it is floating.

 

Really? I noticed no difference when going from bent spoke to stock.

 

tires and air pressure make a huge difference
bigger the tire the lower pressures you can run

 

I noticed a huge difference between my stock 19's and what I run now. So much more comfortable and the added height of the 7.50x17's on the rear is a nice overdrive effect.

 

Back tyres 8:25 *16 Front 5:25 * 16

 

I guess I needed to say "wider tires mean you can lower pressures and get better ride"

I forget that for some here ''a given'' isn't ........sorry

 

Yes 19's to 17's a huge difference. 17 bent spokes to 17 straight spokes no difference.


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Just to change the subject,

This is a method of beefing up the A rear end. When you put a lot of stress on the A rear end the ring gear pushes away from the pinion and the pinion tries to climb the ring gear and something breaks. This "snubber" limits the amount the ring gear can move. It is located just past center of the pinion and more or less in the middle of the ring gear. I try to set mine at .003 to .005. clearance. Thought I'd share this. Hope you appreciate the precision tooling and machinery used. The adapter or hub is mild steel welded on the inside on the housing. the fixture in the top right photo is tapped same thread as adapter/hub and locates the adap. hub fairly square and also holds the depth while welding. Snubber is single pointed to a snug fit to jam nut to help stop lube creep on threads.

 

Thanks Bill
Some one need to post something cool.

I am having new mains pored this winter on the A engine that the car was born with. I have a new crank coming and I want to make new main caps. I might keep the the rear cap just because I might get lazy. Any one have 2cents on what to make them out of.
Has any one tapped out the block or put threaded inserts in the block to hold the main caps? That might be too week but if it could work it would be real nice to junk the hole nut and bolt crap.

I am thinking A2 for the mains but I don't know if that will mess with the guy poring the mains.

I know there has been pics of custom made caps before but let's see them again and there might be some new ones

Thanks guys...





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A2 is not really any stronger then other UNhardened steel. When it's heat treated is when it shines. Look at P20, it's a mold steel lots of strength and not real difficult to machine.

 

Bill,

Thanks for the tech! I purchased a used Halibrand 201 that had this trick installed. It was set up for dirt track racing, with splined axles and fabbed axle tubes. I'm rebuilding it with a '40 rear I picked up recently and will be installing this snubber in the new bell!

Where did you get your brass snubber bolt? That's one thing I haven't located yet.....

 

brett

marine hardware store

 

Brett

He probably machined it up from a piece of bronze stock, clever rascal that he is----


Herb

 

"marune" or "marine"?

 

You figure it out....... Somedays my large fingers and small keyboard bite me

 

Here is an option on the bronze bolt.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cap-screws/=p38zdy

click on Bronze under material. pick your size.


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crazydaddyo, have you got a photo of how you did your carb linkage? i wanna keep the original ball setup without aftermarket shafts or arms. i got ahold of two holley 81's

 

"Snubber is single pointed to a snug fit to jam nut to help stop lube creep on threads."

Should have been "Snubber is machined from solid bronze bearing material (stock) and was single pointed (threaded on lathe) then placed in hex bodied fixture and hex milled on the end.
Some people just build up the face of a bolt with braze while working in the shade of a tree!!

 

I know this isn't exactly banger related, but figured the guys who follow this thread are the ones who would be able to ID these spindles.

.750 spindle bolt
.938 outer bearing ID
1.315 inner bearing ID
One LH spindle nut, one RH.

Damn, can't seem to get a picture to upload from my phone. They are for open yoke axle like a model T, but not as tall in spindle bolt boss.
Picked them up off Ebay thinking they were Chevy, but now that I have em in hand, I'm thinking not.

Will keep trying to post picture.

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