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65 Chevelle Wagon Heating problem-Advise?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Donmon, Sep 30, 2013.

  1. brandon
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,368

    brandon
    Member

    if its not overflowing the overflow, roll with it. get your self one of the little mechanical water temp gauges that goes in the intake ....moon sells them. my coupe did that same thing , with the sender in the head. once I saw the temp wasn't moving in the intake , I quit watching the gauge inside.
     
  2. Good input guys thanks, I have good water flow when thermostat is open at idle (looks like a rushing river, looking down the radiator neck) Timing is on.

    I'm still stuck on these fans for now (may ditch later) they are moving a lot of air, I just dont see how they cant work (im stubborn). grille is clear and clean no restrictions.

    I am curious on the "by-pass" comment. My heater core was starting to leak so I just blocked off the in and out-puts. I dont need no stinking heater. Do I need to route the output back to the input? dosent seem necessary but hell I will try anything.

    FYI - did the Moon gauge thing, same results. rechecked everything, just in-case...

    Whats everyone's thoughts on removing the thermostat all together? they seem really restrictive, I now I need to slow the water down a bit but maybe its slowing it down too much??
     
  3. Did it run hot before you took the core out of the equation?
    Try a loop just as the core was.

    You say you have plenty of flow "like a river", yet you want to remove the Tstat ? I don't understand why.

    Fans should hold a rag to the front of the radiator while sucking air thru it.
    That's enough air flow at slow speeds.

    Make sure your tune and timing are correct.

    Run a coolant mix that suits your ambient temps.
    A 50/50 mix protects to -58 but diminishes its ability to shed heat by 30%. Shedding heat at -58 isn't a concern but a 30% reduction in heat transfer when it's 90* + can ruin your day. A 75/25 mix will cool much better when -58 isn't in the forecast.
     
  4. proartguy
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 668

    proartguy
    Member
    from Sparks, NV

    Try running manifold rather than ported vacuum for the advance, it may run cooler at idle.

    My vote is for a mechanical fan and proper shroud as well. Did you try that before changing to the electric fan set-up?
     
  5. Have you checked to make sure your timing and air/fuel mixture is set optimally?
     
  6. I'm working on the timing and carb adjustments this weekend. The previous owner removed the timing pointer. I set it back yard style advanced till it pinged then backed her off a bit. I will get a new pointer and do it right. I'll also try the manifold vacuum port idea. It did run hot at idle with a flex fan and shroud that as what prompted me to go the electric route. Thanks for the positive input it's great to have people to bounce things off of.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. M224SPEED
    Joined: May 12, 2010
    Posts: 170

    M224SPEED
    Member
    from Missouri

    Removing the thermostat completely would be a mistake,it will allow the coolant to go through the radiator too fast ,and not allow it to stay in long enough to cool down the fluid.
     
  8. CaddyRat
    Joined: Jan 7, 2005
    Posts: 578

    CaddyRat
    Member

    What is the difference between the head location and the intake location? I assume the head would be hotter?
     

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